Rounded Split Rim Bolts on 108's

[JoshW]

Hi all,

I'm refurbing a set of 108's and have come to the stage of trying to split them. After a good afternoons work with an impact driver and whacking the life out of them with a hammer, I have managed to remove most of the bolts. However there are a few in each wheel that have rounded so my T8 Spline bit just spins as it can't grip onto the bolt (in hindsight I should have used heat as they were all corroded in).

Anyone got any thoughts, or tips/tricks on how to remove these bolts, or any special tools that will do the job?

Thanks,
Josh

 

[mr wilks]

By no means impossible but a laborious task ahead now
I would drill down the head with a hss drillbit slightly larger than the bolt thread until the actual head comes free leaving thread still in rim .
Once the centre star is lifted out leaving the threaded shaft my favoured method is to grind 2 flat sides with a small grinder then turn the thread out with spanner.
Others may have other methods but I found this the easiest & least costly route although each bolt head can easily use a fresh drill bit

 

[JoshW]

By no means impossible but a laborious task ahead now
I would drill down the head with a hss drillbit slightly larger than the bolt thread until the actual head comes free leaving thread still in rim .
Once the centre star is lifted out leaving the threaded shaft my favoured method is to grind 2 flat sides with a small grinder then turn the thread out with spanner.
Others may have other methods but I found this the easiest & least costly route although each bolt head can easily use a fresh drill bit

Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated. My confidence is beginning to waver a little now reading that. Almost all of the bolts needed some hard blows with an impact driver to release, how would I get the bolt stubs released if they have suffered from similar amounts of corrosion? I couldn't see them turning with molegrips or a spanner alone...

I originally tried to remove the bolts with just the bit and a socket which led me to rounded the bolts off as they were stuck in hard, causing lots of swearing in the process .

Thanks,
Josh

 

[john-e89]

By no means impossible but a laborious task ahead now
I would drill down the head with a hss drillbit slightly larger than the bolt thread until the actual head comes free leaving thread still in rim .
Once the centre star is lifted out leaving the threaded shaft my favoured method is to grind 2 flat sides with a small grinder then turn the thread out with spanner.
Others may have other methods but I found this the easiest & least costly route although each bolt head can easily use a fresh drill bit

Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated. My confidence is beginning to waver a little now reading that. Almost all of the bolts needed some hard blows with an impact driver to release, how would I get the bolt stubs released if they have suffered from similar amounts of corrosion? I couldn't see them turning with molegrips or a spanner alone...

I originally tried to remove the bolts with just the bit and a socket which led me to rounded the bolts off as they were stuck in hard, causing lots of swearing in the process .

Thanks,
Josh

If the stud left still won't budge after doing as Mr Wilkes says then I reckon you're down to grinding a flat top on the stud, then centre punch as central as possible and drill it out starting small, approx 3-4 mm drill bit then up to just below the thread size. If you get it off centre you can still drill it to the edge of the rim but no further and the bit of stud left might well collapse with some careful centre punching inside the thread bore. If you cock it up there are helicoils you can put in. Failing all that I reckon you're down to finding a machine shop with a pillar drill that are willing to drill them out.

 

[Bumpy]

I did have a problem with one.
The head flats started to strip.
I had a set of torx sockets handy so I selected the tightest size and hammered it in. (A tight 'press fit)
Next I used the impact driver to ease it loose.
Lots of hammering refurbing a 108 but in the end , while shopping for 20 and 15 mm wheel spacers, you will appreciated your efforts !
(Thank Mr. Wilks)

Bumpy

PS
Do not confuse an impact driver with an impact wrench !
You whack the driver with a hammer !
The wrench you pull a trigger !

Also, before everyone gets excited:
The stock bolts are 12 sided and the Torx is 5 (?)
It's alot easier over here to locate the Torx profile, so I decided it was wiser to sacrifice a Torx cause it is cheaper to replace.
Actually it ended very well for all involved.

 

[GBZ4]

Buy a set of these http://www.diy.com/departments/ptx-screw-bolt-extractor-drill-bit-set-5-pieces/693454_BQ.prd?ecamp=Seapla&ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=92700020204976747&gclid=COOFwpWanNQCFQs_GwodthkIkQ&gclsrc=aw.ds.ds&dclid=CJGp25WanNQCFcUR0woddgYBag they should make short work of removal. You'll need a suitable HSS twist drill and an adjustable

 

[john-e89]

Buy a set of these http://www.diy.com/departments/ptx-screw-bolt-extractor-drill-bit-set-5-pieces/693454_BQ.prd?ecamp=Seapla&ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=92700020204976747&gclid=COOFwpWanNQCFQs_GwodthkIkQ&gclsrc=aw.ds.ds&dclid=CJGp25WanNQCFcUR0woddgYBag they should make short work of removal. You'll need a suitable HSS twist drill and an adjustable

I can 'guarantee' all a 5 quid set of these from b&q will do is lose you the time fetching them and 5 quid. OP don't, just don't.

Not having a pop GBZ4 but these are utter crap at this money, monkey metal shite that have no place being sold. You would need to drill the bolt so close to the side of the wheel thread it would be easier to just pry out what's left with a tooth pick.... :roll: You would need to spend in excess of £100 for a set of carbon steel extractors for these wheel bolts, anything less just don't work in my experience, and I've tried many many sets when I used to be an industrial fitter.

 

[GBZ4]

Buy a set of these http://www.diy.com/departments/ptx-screw-bolt-extractor-drill-bit-set-5-pieces/693454_BQ.prd?ecamp=Seapla&ppc_type=shopping&ds_kids=92700020204976747&gclid=COOFwpWanNQCFQs_GwodthkIkQ&gclsrc=aw.ds.ds&dclid=CJGp25WanNQCFcUR0woddgYBag they should make short work of removal. You'll need a suitable HSS twist drill and an adjustable

I can 'guarantee' all a 5 quid set of these from b&q will do is lose you the time fetching them and 5 quid. OP don't, just don't.

Not having a pop GBZ4 but these are utter crap at this money, monkey metal shite that have no place being sold. You would need to drill the bolt so close to the side of the wheel thread it would be easier to just pry out what's left with a tooth pick.... :roll: You would need to spend in excess of £100 for a set of carbon steel extractors for these wheel bolts, anything less just don't work in my experience, and I've tried many many sets when I used to be an industrial fitter.

I have used them with success but I bow the other experiences

 

[Ducklakeview]

The bolts are titanium, and as said by Mr W, they will easily "eat" a drill bit each when removing the heads. When I split mine, I used a GOOD quality 12 sided bit, and lightly tapped it into each and every bolt, to remove debris/paint and "shock" them a little. Don't know how far gone the heads are on your's OP, but can you not "force" the next size up bit into them? As for release agents, most of what I've ever tried is useless, or was until I came across this stuff - https://www.amazon.co.uk/BLASTER-CHEMICAL-COMPANIES-INC-CATALYST/dp/B000I2079E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496310889&sr=8-1&keywords=pb+blaster

It HAS removed the "impossible" on several occasions for me...

Mike

 

[JoshW]

I have ordered another couple of M8 spline bits as the heavy hammering has just slightly took the spline shape from the bit, and I don't want to risk rounding anymore. I guess it would be worth trying to hammer in a larger sized spline for what it's worth, I think if I try this I am going to make it as easy as possible by using good penetrating fluid and heat. Has anyone ever had experience using Auto Transmission Fluid and Acetone mixed together as a penetrating fluid - I've read it is meant to be very effective?

 

[Anonymous]

I know it's defeatist but have you considered ditching your ones and picking up another set and starting again (this time with heat!).
I've just picked some up for £25 a wheel (without cracks).
Cheaper than a vast array of new tools.

 

[G600]

If they are slightly rounded, or even just to prevent them rounding in the first place, use some of this https://www.ezgrip.net I use it all the time on aircraft fasteners and I was amazed how much of a difference it makes.

 

[Anonymous]

Where do you get your ez grip from?
Can't seem to find it in the uk.
Thanks.