Roof motor relocation- question

[bigwinn]

Evening

I’ve stripped the back of the car down to do some works on the shocks and needed to check the micro switch

Decided to go the whole hog and check how far I could get with a view to relocate the motor to the boot

Progressed well- a few questions before I go again tomorrow!

See picture- the motor casing feels loose when I grab it but not free-

Does it look like it’s been moved before?
Is the ringed area the bracket securing it to the car?
Is the arrow the tape holding the top of the casing on?



Reading the next steps if I can get it freed up it’s fairly simple from that point…?

Cheers.

Stuart

 

[PDJ]

I am in Cleethorpes this weekend if that helps

 

[PDJ]

It looks like non BMW tape around it, if that is the case it could come out easier or a nightmare if someone has added tywraps that is even worse.

 

[bigwinn]

It’s deffo wobbly- I just have an inkling it’s been replaced at some point

What’s best- crack the container open?

I don’t think I’ll make clee this weekend as I’m doing all the rear end stuff like shocks/bushes etc but I’ll let you know if that changes Paul

 

[colb]

Speared through the lid of mine and used a long pry bar and a built up pivot point in the boot to lever it upwards, the tie wrap down the bottom then snapped and released the container so it could be lifted up and back into the boot. Brute force is the answer.

 

[bigwinn]

Speared through the lid of mine and used a long pry bar and a built up pivot point in the boot to lever it upwards, the tie wrap down the bottom then snapped and released the container so it could be lifted up and back into the boot. Brute force is the answer.

Any danger of damaging either lines or electric Colb?

That’s what I’m thinking- spear and pry

 

[PDJ]

Any danger of damaging either lines or electric Colb?

Always a risk
Use a measured amount of force

 

[bigwinn]

Any danger of damaging either lines or electric Colb?

Always a risk
Use a measured amount of force

cheers Paul

 

[colb]

If you can spear it between the lid and the body of the cannister you will avoid the pipes and cable ok, just use considerable upward force so the tie wrap(s) that are holding it in there snap or the mounting slot on the body of the cannister tears and releases it. Once its free lift ui up and pull it back into the boot, there is enough slack on the cable and pipes to allow it to be pulled back.
I suspect Alan in Bristol who has done loads of these may well use a long chisel type implement to get poked down the cavity from above and cut the cable ties with that, probably his trade secret!!

 

[bigwinn]

Thanks Colb- I did think of popping a screw into the plastic lid to get mole grips on to aid traction but then thought I might damage electrics or hoses inside

 

[bigwinn]

Well it’s beating me so far

Question- is it worth removing the black plastic trim over the suspension top to get more purchase?

 

[bigwinn]

Top off

Still feels wedged- will the pump come out of the cup if it’s still cable tied in?

 

[colb]

With the lid off it should pull up and out, its wrapped in foam so expect some resistance when pulling it upwards but should come out now the lid is off. Also pull the pipes free of the snap in guides on the side of the cannister so they are not holding on to the body of the cannister. Just noticed that the pipe snap in guides are at the top of the picture and the pipes are nearer the camera, looks to me that someine has been in there before and put it back in the wrong way around, maybve they have used more than one cable tie down there to hold it in?

 

[DMike]

Evening

I’ve stripped the back of the car down to do some works on the shocks and needed to check the micro switch

Decided to go the whole hog and check how far I could get with a view to relocate the motor to the boot

Progressed well- a few questions before I go again tomorrow!

See picture- the motor casing feels loose when I grab it but not free-

Does it look like it’s been moved before?
Is the ringed area the bracket securing it to the car?
Is the arrow the tape holding the top of the casing on?

6E82BA0D-94FD-4F1F-B3DB-2DAA662015E2.jpeg

Reading the next steps if I can get it freed up it’s fairly simple from that point…?

Cheers.

Stuart

Hi Stuart,
The plastic bracket you circled has two slots, one visible on your photo and a second one half an inch further. There is bolt through the second slot and you have to break that slot. OEM has at least two zip ties, some have reported three. I cut the zip ties using a scissors with usb cam, less risk for damaging the hydraulic lines.

 

[bigwinn]

Done

Cheers Colb

It’s building a picture of this motor- despite being an 03 build this is clearly a new pump

Why the effin Jeff would you put the damn thing back in the same hole it came from!???!??!

Grrr

Anyway

Roof motor relocate- done

 

[bigwinn]

Evening

I’ve stripped the back of the car down to do some works on the shocks and needed to check the micro switch

Decided to go the whole hog and check how far I could get with a view to relocate the motor to the boot

Progressed well- a few questions before I go again tomorrow!

See picture- the motor casing feels loose when I grab it but not free-

Does it look like it’s been moved before?
Is the ringed area the bracket securing it to the car?
Is the arrow the tape holding the top of the casing on?

6E82BA0D-94FD-4F1F-B3DB-2DAA662015E2.jpeg

Reading the next steps if I can get it freed up it’s fairly simple from that point…?

Cheers.

Stuart

Hi Stuart,
The plastic tab you circled has two slots, one visible on your photo and a second one half an inch further. There is bolt through the second slot and you have to break that slot. OEM has at least two zip ties, some have reported three. I cut the zip ties using a scissors with usb cam, less risk for damaging the hydraulic lines.

B8C93EAC-07BB-4222-85EE-D89B742E16BA.jpeg

ED03597C-4D05-477B-A23C-02101F5BB606.jpeg

Love that usb cam scissor set up dmike- patent it!!!

 

[colb]

Bet you said Jolly Good and gave a little dance when it finally released itself, I would hazard a guess it was changed by BMW at some point in its past hence why it got put back in its hole, only they would do that. Relocation was the first thing I did when I got my Z4 took me 5 hours of faffing about to release it, reckon I could do it in under an hour knowing what I know now. Discovered mine had been replaced at sometime in its life, it was a refurbished motor from a German manufactuer not a labeled BMW motor. That metal bracket behind the boot carpet is a good place to secure it to in its new location, I used a couple of cable ties on thet bracket.

 

[bigwinn]

Bet you said Jolly Good and gave a little dance when it finally released itself, I would hazard a guess it was changed by BMW at some point in its past hence why it got put back in its hole, only they would do that. Relocation was the first thing I did when I got my Z4 took me 5 hours of faffing about to release it, reckon I could do it in under an hour knowing what I know now. Discovered mine had been replaced at sometime in its life, it was a refurbished motor from a German manufactuer not a labeled BMW motor. That metal bracket behind the boot carpet is a good place to secure it to in its new location, I used a couple of cable ties on thet bracket.

I said something

It wasn’t clean- the neighbours were laughing at me screwed up in the boot

Good shout on the metal bracket-

I think knowing what I know now I could do it quicker-

Would I want to? Not in a hurry!

Thanks for your guidance bud