Roof motor problem

damask

Member
 Deepest Dumbria
Hello, new here and just bought a Z4. I have an issue with the roof, press the button on the dash, roof moves a quarter of the way, can then manually move it to the last bit, press button and electrics will finish the last bit. Have looked on you tube and now here, looks like it would be better to relocate motor to boot ? Does anybody here know anyone in the Cumbria area that fixes this problem ?
Cheers
 
The nearest forum member to you for roof motor relocations will be Durham Dave.

Beaten to it! :lol:
 
Thanks but just trawled through 38 pages of nicks beginning with 'D'; is there another way of 'looking up' a member ?
Cheers
 
Here's a link to a thread with his phone number:- https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=123017&hilit=durham
 
No problem. That's what I like about this forum, people are usually very helpful. :thumbsup:
 
Just a quick thought, when I bought mine it had a hard top on. When I removed it I tried operating the hood and it did the same ish as yours, turns out I needed to pull the red handle in the boot. I am fairly daft but I didn't know!!!
:D
 
First thing to check is the red loop handle on the top edge of the boot is in the correct position, it may have been pulled to operate the hood manually and the valve it operates on the pump has stuck open resulting in low pressure when electrically operated, that would make sense with it starting to open and finally closing when its helped along manually as you describe. If and when that red handle is operated to manually operate the hood it is pulled out and turned to 90degrees in order to press the pump valve in. Often this valve, a small brass coloured push button gets seized in the down position and needs lube to free it off. A good few pokes in and out with lube on it should free it off. The downside is you need to pull the motor/pump out of the well it lives in and repositioned in the boot. Its held in by a plastic tie wrap which has to be cut/snapped to enable the plastic housing that the motor/pump lives in to be pulled up and back into the boot. The hydraulic lines and power cables are long enough to allow the relocation. Once out you can access the valve and see how the red handle cable operates it, the cable pulls a plastic lever over the valve to depress it. Free that valve up and test the hood closing/opening with the motor lying in the boot, remember that the microswitch in the centre of the parcel shelf needs to be closed for it to work, jam a suitable sized socket in the switch recess to close the switch for the test.
Good how to relocate here if you fancy giving it a go
https://zroadster.org/threads/z4-roof-motor-relocation-to-boot.19256/
 
I fiddled about with the red handle, pulling, turning etc but still the same action; think I'll wait until Spring, get it sorted and have the motor relocated. Thanks for the help and advice anyway, haven't been on here long but loving it so far :thumbsup:
 
Personally I wouldn’t wait as that could cost you double if you’re to leave the motor sat idle in water for another 5-6 months. It will just rot

Tackle it now, save a few quid and be able to enjoy those fine winter days.
 
Agree with Number5 get it relocated and sorted now otherwise its going to rot away if its sitting in water and cost you more if its past saving.
 
Hi, Another newbie here. I think I need a roof motor relocation. I’ve had my 2003 E85 for just over a year and the roof had been fine until last week, after some weeks of rain. Motor ran slow and then not at all. Dried it out as best I can and it’s working again but I don’t want to leave it. Help! In Bucks but Bristol is easy for me, if Number 5 can as and when? Thanks
 
Whilst you await for Number5 to get back to you get under the car and use a flexible rod to rod the drains on both sides especially the one that the motor sits in. Look under the sills just in front of the rear wheels you will see the drains they have a rubber one way cap on the ends, pull those off and use the flexible rod to poke the drains clear. It won't revive the motor but at least it will get it out of any water thats sitting there. Picture shows the drain with the arch liner removed, you can get at it from underneath the sill.
 

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If you lower the roof and pour a little water in from above where the roof hinges are, the water should reappear immediately from the drains.

That rubber bung is not the full story as it also connects to a flexi hose and another bung leading to the plastic bucket what the roof motor sits in.
 
colb said:
Whilst you await for Number5 to get back to you get under the car and use a flexible rod to rod the drains on both sides especially the one that the motor sits in. Look under the sills just in front of the rear wheels you will see the drains they have a rubber one way cap on the ends, pull those off and use the flexible rod to poke the drains clear. It won't revive the motor but at least it will get it out of any water thats sitting there. Picture shows the drain with the arch liner removed, you can get at it from underneath the sill.

I found the drainage channel to be surprisingly long, so if you’re using a pipe cleaner you need to go at it from both ends. If you take out the parcel shelf and get in the boot, you can get an arm down into the well. Take a few pics with a mobile phone first to orientate yourself.
 
foglo2 said:
Hi, Another newbie here. I think I need a roof motor relocation. I’ve had my 2003 E85 for just over a year and the roof had been fine until last week, after some weeks of rain. Motor ran slow and then not at all. Dried it out as best I can and it’s working again but I don’t want to leave it. Help! In Bucks but Bristol is easy for me, if Number 5 can as and when? Thanks

If you are within striking distance of Hook (not far from Reading) try Ross at RBM Hants - Bowser134 on this forum, has a very good rep for roof motor relocations.
 
Net curtain wire is quite flexible to rod those drains out but bear in mind if water has got into the plastic motor housing its not going to drain that out and will be held in there by the sponge sound deadening that wraps around the motor. Thick strimmer wire has also been used with success.
 
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