I sorted out my roof on 2013 20i. Did a search and no diy guides here so thought I would post. Ordered repair manual on ebay for 15 quid 5500 odd pages!, BMW Inpa v57 software, cable etc.
Basically the rear module intermittently continued to try to close even when it appeared closed meaning the hydraulic pump would whirr away and the glass wouldn't drop when closing (pressing and releasing the button a few times or opening the module a little and closing fixed it)and when opening the same when the module shut when roof was stowed meaning the windows wouldn't go up and an error registered. Driving along and occasional roof open messages would flash, opening and closing would fix it .
Anyway thought Id fix it.In retrospect I wouldn't have bothered with INPA as this took over a day to install and operate nightmare it was obviously one of the two sensors on the module sides. Anyway v57 confirmed it was the right module closed sensor. So ordered up for 15 quid and with no instructions in the manual to change it I removed the trim over the right suspension turret with the module open. I disconnected the clip on the scissors hinge on the right most part of the boot lid that just slides off. I pulled the scissors off the boot hinge, 3 x size 13mm Nuts hold the right hinge assembly to the car , this removed, the switch was held on with two pan head allen bolts that are threadlocked, one was removed the others head stripped, I snapped the switch off with a screwdriver and this released the screw. A dremel would have been handy here to cut a slot for a screwdriver and a heat gun to loosen the threadlock in retrospect. Be careful no screws or nuts fall down the side of the suspension turret into the boot as they will be lost. Stuffing the area with newspaper would be very very wise then as I lost one nut that held the hinge assembly on and the stripped allen bolt for the microswitch. I had spare bolt that I had to dremel cut off as too long and would interfere with the mechanism. The next problem was the loom was different on old switch as new one. The new one was waterproof and old one wasn't. I was unsure if the wires had polarity so opened the old switch. It is not a pure on off switch with a circuit board and two micro resistors The new switch registered 500 ohms closed and 1500 open. I took a gamble and cut old plug and 2 inches off old switch and soldered with heat shrink to new switch and wrapped with electrical tape. Threadlock the allen screws to the switch as don't want them coming loose later, tighten the 3 nuts or in my case 2 as I lost one which is ok for moment. The hinge can slide before the nuts a re tightened. Go across to other side and note where the other side is by measuring with a ruler and copy it OR MARK BEFORE UNDOING IT. I copied the other side and was perfect.
MAKE SURE TO CONNECT THE HINGE TO THE BOOT LID(I FORGOT BUT CAUGHT IT IN TIME BEFORE SOMETHING BROKE THANK GOD!) and replace the circlip which slides on.
Replace the trim MAKING SURE THAT SECTION NEAR THE SUSPENSION TURRET HAS A HALF CM CLEARANCE like the other side it will want to rub against the hinge of the glass roof section if placed improperly which will probably break something. The trim is replaced using simple push clips that fit into expanding rawplugs that come out with a screwdriver under them. I had to take a few clips from adjacent trim and all 4 out of the trim that holds the safety net to car to remove the last clip as its hidden under it.
Ensure the rubber boot seal is correctly located onto the car as this goes over the trim and needs to be loosened up to get the trim back.
Job done, REENSURE THE HINGE IS ON THE BOOT LID AS ABOVE, test it and if not smooth on latching then move the hinge slightly each way and test it
Job done time for a coffee!
Basically the rear module intermittently continued to try to close even when it appeared closed meaning the hydraulic pump would whirr away and the glass wouldn't drop when closing (pressing and releasing the button a few times or opening the module a little and closing fixed it)and when opening the same when the module shut when roof was stowed meaning the windows wouldn't go up and an error registered. Driving along and occasional roof open messages would flash, opening and closing would fix it .
Anyway thought Id fix it.In retrospect I wouldn't have bothered with INPA as this took over a day to install and operate nightmare it was obviously one of the two sensors on the module sides. Anyway v57 confirmed it was the right module closed sensor. So ordered up for 15 quid and with no instructions in the manual to change it I removed the trim over the right suspension turret with the module open. I disconnected the clip on the scissors hinge on the right most part of the boot lid that just slides off. I pulled the scissors off the boot hinge, 3 x size 13mm Nuts hold the right hinge assembly to the car , this removed, the switch was held on with two pan head allen bolts that are threadlocked, one was removed the others head stripped, I snapped the switch off with a screwdriver and this released the screw. A dremel would have been handy here to cut a slot for a screwdriver and a heat gun to loosen the threadlock in retrospect. Be careful no screws or nuts fall down the side of the suspension turret into the boot as they will be lost. Stuffing the area with newspaper would be very very wise then as I lost one nut that held the hinge assembly on and the stripped allen bolt for the microswitch. I had spare bolt that I had to dremel cut off as too long and would interfere with the mechanism. The next problem was the loom was different on old switch as new one. The new one was waterproof and old one wasn't. I was unsure if the wires had polarity so opened the old switch. It is not a pure on off switch with a circuit board and two micro resistors The new switch registered 500 ohms closed and 1500 open. I took a gamble and cut old plug and 2 inches off old switch and soldered with heat shrink to new switch and wrapped with electrical tape. Threadlock the allen screws to the switch as don't want them coming loose later, tighten the 3 nuts or in my case 2 as I lost one which is ok for moment. The hinge can slide before the nuts a re tightened. Go across to other side and note where the other side is by measuring with a ruler and copy it OR MARK BEFORE UNDOING IT. I copied the other side and was perfect.
MAKE SURE TO CONNECT THE HINGE TO THE BOOT LID(I FORGOT BUT CAUGHT IT IN TIME BEFORE SOMETHING BROKE THANK GOD!) and replace the circlip which slides on.
Replace the trim MAKING SURE THAT SECTION NEAR THE SUSPENSION TURRET HAS A HALF CM CLEARANCE like the other side it will want to rub against the hinge of the glass roof section if placed improperly which will probably break something. The trim is replaced using simple push clips that fit into expanding rawplugs that come out with a screwdriver under them. I had to take a few clips from adjacent trim and all 4 out of the trim that holds the safety net to car to remove the last clip as its hidden under it.
Ensure the rubber boot seal is correctly located onto the car as this goes over the trim and needs to be loosened up to get the trim back.
Job done, REENSURE THE HINGE IS ON THE BOOT LID AS ABOVE, test it and if not smooth on latching then move the hinge slightly each way and test it
Job done time for a coffee!
