Ride height Bilstein b4 struts and shocks

madtownZ4

Member
Hello, I just replaced my shocks and struts. I did not measure the ride height (ground to fender arch) beforehand. However, the car appears to be much higher now in the front. I measure 27" to the fender arch in the front and 26" in the rear. The front seems higher.

This was my first time doing shocks and struts. I am concerned I might not have done it correctly.

One possibility is I didn't seat the strut all the way into the knuckle...thinking about loosening the pinch bolt with the car on the ground??
Another is the springs aren't seated properly in the top and bottom strut 'seats'....would they seat themselves over time and driving??

Does anyone have b4's? what is your ride height? What about stock ride height?

Here is how I measured.
 

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Springs control the ride height not the shocks or struts (in most cases) With B4's your car should still be at the same ride height it was before so you've done something wrong. Some people say it'll settle over time but I've never found that to be the case.

Withought knowing what springs you have its difficult to compare.
 
How far have you moved the car since the swap?
When you jack it up the wheels droop inwards and hold the suspension higher.
 
Stock for what car though? There are at least three different types for the E85 - I’m assuming that’s what you’ve got as you haven’t told us that either.
But as Enuff said, have you driven it?
 
When you measure ride height on an E85/E89 you measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to the bottom edge of the ‘fender;..

Stock should be around 380mm ish for non MSport and 370mm ish for MSport on E89..not sure on an E85..I guess a lot less
 
2005 z4 e85 3.0i 6 speed manual - M-sport suspension

Thanks for the help so far. I have the M-sport (I believe). It is a 6 speed with the M on the shifter and the 'sport' button near it. I have driven it about 30 miles since installing. The distance from the center of the wheel to the arch is about 375 mm (14 13/16")...

Looks like my drivers side the strut isn't seated as far into the knuckle as the passenger side...

Can I loosen the 18 mm knuckle bolt with the car on ramps and let it settle? Is there a risk of the strut going too far down with the weight of the car and the bolt too loose??
 

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Wow!
Do NOT drive anymore!
There are two projecting parts like nail heads on the strut. They must go into the slot and then the bolt passes between them to stop the hub sliding off it.
You have been very lucky!
Get both sides up, bolt out and then make sure the struts sit down as far as they possibly can before doing up the bolts.
Best way is car on axle stands, and a jack under the hub, pumped up until the hub stops sliding up the strut and the strut starts compressing.
Double check both sides.

Pretty sure in the first photo I can see the ‘nail head’ sitting above the hub.
 
I am following you. So the bolt needs to be all of the way out for the first 'pin' to slide down and the strut to seat?? I guess I am wondering how the struts 'seat' themselves in the knuckle...I saw the bottom part of the struts had a smaller diameter and then a larger diameter. I am assuming that is where it seats into the knuckle....or is it these two pins that determine the struts seating....sorry if my description is hard to follow....thanks
 
The pins end up either side of the bolt. So bolt fully out and make sure the strut is as far through as it can possibly go.
 
Another question. Are you sure you have the shocks fitted on the correct sides? The second photo looks like the drop link is mounted on the wrong side of the bracket on the strut. Hard to tell tbh.
Did you by a left and right strut or two the same?
I think if I were you I would try to find another zed to compare with.
Definitely don’t even consider driving it!
 
Thanks for everyone's help. The strut was not properly seated in the knuckle. I got the car on jack stands, removed the wheel, put a floor jack under the wheel and compressed the strut. I loosened the 18 mm knuckle bolt and I could hear a thud as the strut slid down into the knuckle.

Here are after and before... thanks again.
 

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madtownZ4 said:
Thanks for everyone's help. The strut was not properly seated in the knuckle. I got the car on jack stands, removed the wheel, put a floor jack under the wheel and compressed the strut. I loosened the 18 mm knuckle bolt and I could hear a thud as the strut slid down into the knuckle.

Here are after and before... thanks again.
What about the drop link attachment ? Is that correct?
 
I did buy a left and right and changed them one at a time and matched up the new and old struts. Thanks...

It is driving quite nice now. Big difference from the original struts. They had a build date of 2004 on them and 141K miles....they didn't even rebound out when I compressed them once I had them off the car. They were completely shot.....
 
madtownZ4 said:
I did buy a left and right and changed them one at a time and matched up the new and old struts. Thanks...

It is driving quite nice now. Big difference from the original struts. They had a build date of 2004 on them and 141K miles....they didn't even rebound out when I compressed them once I had them off the car. They were completely shot.....
That’s fine. Just looked wrong in the photo but as I said, hard to see
 
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