Replacement brake pads

estoril

Member
Hi,
I am looking for advice and experience with replacement brake pads for a Z4MC, mine aren't worn out yet but I wanted to start a little research to see what people use and receommend.

The car stops great with BMW pads so my default is to get another set of those but I want to see what other prople have done.

Cheers,
Darren.
 
The options for 'performance' pads are (average prices):
  • Pagid RS19/29 [yellow] (£195 for fronts, £165 for rears)
  • Pagid RS4-4 [blue]/RS4-2 [orange] (£170 for fronts)
  • Pagid RS14 [black] (£180 for fronts)
  • Ferodo DS2500/3000 (£185 for fronts, £90 for rears)
  • Performance Friction Z (£65 for fronts, £70 for rears)
  • EBC Yellow (£95 for fronts, £70 for rears)

For 'OE' performance the pad options are (average prices):
  • Genuine BMW from dealer (£100 for fronts, £70 for rears)
  • ATE (£49 for fronts, £37 for rears)
  • Pagid (£41 for fronts, £27 for rears)
  • Textar (£62 for fronts, £31 for rears)
  • EBC Red (£80 for fronts, £50 for rears)

I use the EBC Yellows because I get them very cheaply through a marshal's discount scheme for about £90 all in, so 30% of the price of the Pagid or Ferodo pads, which makes my choice very simple.
 
Good advice from Mr Five. You'll find a lot of people on here running on various EBCs, but I'd be happy with most of those above (except OEM - too much dust!)
 
Lots of choices there from mmm-five. :thumbsup:

On a similar note has anyone tried the Stoptech street performance pads? They now make them for OEM calipers as well.
 
Would it cause much of a problem mixing front and rear pads types? I've just had my front disks and pads replaced under warranty so they are OEM. However my rears a looking like they need replacing so I was going to get some ds2500/3000 put on the rears and then do something similar with the fronts when they need replacing.
 
ga41 said:
On a similar note has anyone tried the Stoptech street performance pads? They now make them for OEM calipers as well.
I saw them listed, but couldn't see a price for them.
 
moonigan said:
Would it cause much of a problem mixing front and rear pads types? I've just had my front disks and pads replaced under warranty so they are OEM. However my rears a looking like they need replacing so I was going to get some ds2500/3000 put on the rears and then do something similar with the fronts when they need replacing.
You see plenty of people putting big brake kits on the fronts only - without changing anything at the rear, so I'd assume it would be even less of an issue by just changing pads.

Although, I only ever do a 4-wheel set at a time, but that's more down to the fact that I get the EBC Yellows so cheaply :oops:
 
estoril,

If I may, I have a different take on replacing brake pads.

I take it that you have no track or High Performance Driving Event (HPDE) experience. I base this observation on your question and how it was asked.

This is not a bad thing, and I could be wrong on your driving experience.

I am not going to recommend any particular manufacturer of brake pads. Just a thought...

Unless you just want bragging rights or a different brake pad that produces less dust, stay with the cheapest 'OE' type of brake pad. Going to a 'Performance Pad' over a cheaper 'OE' type of pad is a waist of money.
This is based on my perception of your driving style and NOT a criticism.

You will not be able to tell the difference between the two ranges of brake pads. To be frank, you will not be able to 'out drive' the OE style of pad.

So if you can't out drive the pad, why waist your money on a higher cost, higher performance brake pad?
I am not saying go to your dealer and buy their equipment. You can get the same level of performance for less money.

Save some money, so you can purchase more fuel and drive the car more.... :thumbsup:
 
Shipkiller,
Interesting observations.

I do have track, sprint and trackday experience just not in this car and many years ago....about 20 and in a Westfield!

I am planning on doing a few track days in my car this year and was planning on running the OEM pads for the first one and then replacing them after the first event with either OEM standard pads or an upgrade in prep for forthcoming track days.

I have had great experience with EBC yellow stuff pads in an Elise but I know that a particular pad type does NOT always have the same results in different cars.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Darren.
 
estoril said:
Shipkiller,
Interesting observations.

I do have track, spring and trackday experience just not in this car and many years ago....about 20 and in a Westfield!

I am planning on doing a few track days in my car this year and was planning on running the OEM pads for the first one and then replacing them after the first event with either OEM standard pads or an upgrade in prep for forthcoming track days.

I have had great experience with EBC yellow stuff pads in an Elise but I know that a particular pad type does NOT always have the same results in different cars.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Darren.
I took my Z4MC on the track a few weeks ago. The OEM brakes held up pretty well, even with a hairpin at the end of a 125-130mph straight... although this did completely consume the front pads.
I've changed to EBC yellow stuff all round (after discussion with mmm-five), and I've had none of the problems that have been raised on this forum by others using red stuff (rattling from ill-fitting pads, squeaky brakes, etc). I'm hoping to get back on the track soon to see how they perform under duress.
Incidently, as a direct comparison with my Westfield driven on the same track, the ///M performs brilliantly. I'm certain you'll have a fantastic time :driving:
 
estoril said:
Shipkiller,
Interesting observations.

I do have track, spring and trackday experience just not in this car and many years ago....about 20 and in a Westfield!

I am planning on doing a few track days in my car this year and was planning on running the OEM pads for the first one and then replacing them after the first event with either OEM standard pads or an upgrade in prep for forthcoming track days.

I have had great experience with EBC yellow stuff pads in an Elise but I know that a particular pad type does NOT always have the same results in different cars.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Darren.

:D :D

Since you have not done a HPDE in a long time, but are planning on getting back into it, that changes things a little.

It had been two years since I have had some track time when I went two weeks ago. It does come back quickly, but I could not out drive the car... so using your OEM pads until they wear out is a good idea and the OEM pads will wear quickly as BMWZ4MC stated.
The OEM pads are real rotor friendly so you will not have to worry about destroying your rotors earlier than necessary. Dedicated track pads will wear a rotor out rather quickly. ///M rotors are expensive....

One of the worst things a new driver (to the track) can do it take a car to the track, that is so capable, he really does not learn as fast as he could with a lesser car... It is harder to learn where the edge is with a more capable car than with a less capable car. I learned more with a Mazda Miata than with my buddies Cayman...

The only thing I have done to my M is pull the camber pins and replaced the brake pads with CoolCarbons.
I replaced the OEM pads for three reasons.
1. Less brake dust.
2. Higher temp range.
3. Rotor friendly.

I specifically will track my car (job requirements permitting) at least five or six times this year (may be more) and did not want to have to replace my OEM pads every other event. The events I run are two day events....so that's a lot of days on the track.. At Virginia International Raceway (VIR) two weeks ago, we were driving the North Course which is a 2.25 mile course. In two days I put 272 track miles on the car....

After several events and my skill and comfort level has progress to a certain point, then and only then will I start to think about additional modifications to the car.

This is a truism, Fix the driver before you fix the car.....

You will have a great time when you go and shake out the old cobwebs.. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
I'm thinking of swapping my pads as well for something better but after some reading up i think the brake pedal softness i'm experiencing is probably fluid boil. The car stops fine but the brake pedal goes mushy and needs more travel. I'm going to change to better fluid and probably install stainless steel brakes lines before considering new pads. I'm aware the brake lines wont make much difference to pedal feel unless in extreme track conditions but they're not terribly expensive so why not.
 
Shipkiller said:
estoril,To be frank, you will not be able to 'out drive' the OE style of pad.

Yes and no.

One track day was enough to know the following things:

  • Brake pads are not suited for track usage
  • Brake fluid starts to boil in less than 10 laps

So what I did with some money to burn was
  • Steel brake hoses
  • Performance brake fluid
  • Pagid RS29 brake pads

It's good stuff, but for daily driving it means my braking power does not feel much different, but when not driven hard the pads will make your car sound like a clunker. Performance pads need heat to work, and under normal driving you won't generate that heat. The RS29's excel in working well under heat and cold, but they will sound horrid when cold. My wife can not tell by the engine noise if I leave in the morning with the Z or my motorcycle, but she can tell what I'm arriving with, pure on braking noise :).
 
wooter said:
Shipkiller said:
estoril,To be frank, you will not be able to 'out drive' the OE style of pad.

Yes and no.

One track day was enough to know the following things:

  • Brake pads are not suited for track usage
  • Brake fluid starts to boil in less than 10 laps

So what I did with some money to burn was
  • Steel brake hoses
  • Performance brake fluid
  • Pagid RS29 brake pads

Do you mind if I ask what this lot cost. I may need to do something similar myself soon and would like to get some idea of the costs involved.

Cheers
P
 
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