Remote lock - worked then doesn't

M

Mike K.

Member
 Covington, WA
Gents.

I'm a bit puzzled. I was having difficulty with my passenger door not unlocking (locks OK) via the remote or console button. So I resync'd all three keys. All worked well except for unlocking the passenger door.

Brought the keys back inside for about thirty minutes. Went back out, tried one, inop. Then the other two, inop also. :( Tried reprogramming via the three recommended ways, just as I had done earlier, none would program. :scratchhead:

BTW, car battery is original. 35k miles. Always garaged. Everything else seems fine.

Your thoughts?

Mike K.
 
mine did that when i first got it, and now it is having trouble unlocking the driverside door!!! :headbang:

Even the key in the key hole has a problem unlocking the doors.
 
Are you sure you dont have to press the unlock button twice to open the passenger door on you car, it may have been programmed to act this way.
 
Mike K. said:
Gents.

I'm a bit puzzled. I was having difficulty with my passenger door not unlocking (locks OK) via the remote or console button. So I resync'd all three keys. All worked well except for unlocking the passenger door. Your thoughts?

Mike K.
Click to expand...

Mine is exactly the same. The module that controls these functions was eliminated as a possible source, so it's the lock actuator motor that's at fault, not strong enough to push it up anymore. There is no choice but to have a BMW dealer do the job, since a special tool is required to tension the handle cable after the motor has been replaced. Was quoted $785.00 Canadian by the dealer to do the job (per door!).
 
Good morning and thanks for your comments,

Srhutch, you are correct that the unlock has to be pressed twice for the passenger door. However, it doesn't work now in this case.

Powerontap, my thoughts were the actuator also, but as I believe it acts like a solenoid, it will retract but will not extend. I hope it doesn't come down to that. They are very proud of their parts. I guess BMW really means "Bring Money With". :roll:

On top of this, I notice that my "one touch up" feature on the passenger window doesn't work now. "One touch down" does work. ????

I wonder if a slight decrease in voltage from the battery is enough to cause these problems.

Any other thoughts or comments?

Mike K.
 
The symptons everyone is describing are exactly the same as a problem on my car previously, and it was the control module (GM5).

The issue I had was intermittant at first, and involved the drivers door locking, but not unlocking. After resetting the central locking, it worked for a bit, then died again, and eventually stopped working all together.

I'd initally thought it was the actuator, which I had replaced by an independant whilst I was having other work done.

When this didnt solve the problem, I had to bite the bullet and go to BMW to have the module replaced. It seems the module contains a series of relays which die after a lot of use. BMW wont replace the relays individually, but there are places on ebay which will. (see below)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-GM5-E46-Central-Locking-Module-Repair-P-P-included-/120587906404?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c13996d64

A shameless plug, but if anyone wants to try the ebay repair route, I'm selling my old GM5 (EKZ) module in the For Sale section, which could be a good unit to send off for repair, and switch.
 
I contacted a similar place who also repairs hundreds of GM5 modules in the US (http://www.bmwgm5.com/), but after going thru my problem in detail, he admitted that since it was only hapening with one door, it could be either one, but a 75-25% chance for the actuator. Since I never got around to fixing it yet (week-end driver car only), I'll probably send it out to him for rebuilt (only $110.USD) when I store the car for winter, taking my chances on saving $$ over replacing the actuator.

Thanks elliot
 
Gents,

Well, I was able to visit with a friendly tech at the dealer today regarding the programming of the keys. I learned of a fourth version.

1. Insert one key into the ignition, while HOLDING DOWN the unlock button, quickly switch to position one and back, with drawing the key.
2. Hold down the unlock button and depress the lock button three times. Release both buttons. You'll hear and see the drivers door unlock.

3. Within thirty seconds, take your second key, and without putting into the ignition, hold the unlock button down, depress the lock button three times. Release both. You'll hear and see the drivers door unlock.
4. Within the same time, if you have one, cycle your third key also.

Unfortunately, I did learn that my passenger lock is probably the actuator. I'll probably put that off as I can't remember the last time I was a passenger. :rofl: :rofl:

Thanks again!

Cheers !

Mike K.
 
Mike K. said:
Unfortunately, I did learn that my passenger lock is probably the actuator. Mike K.
Click to expand...

So my guy who repairs the GM5's was probably right then...too bad, expensive repair for such a small problem.
 
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