Recently repaired power soft top. Does this sound okay?

Tuna!

Member
Recently replaced hydraulic pump motor and micro switch on my Z4.

It’s been broken since I bought it so I can’t compare the working top to how it was before but it does sound VERY LOUD.

I’m guessing its because I didn’t use the right hydraulic fluid(?). I ordered the correct fluid and hopefully that fixes it. Can someone with a working roof please tell me how it sounds?

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More likely to be a low fluid level.
Ignore the ‘+’ mark on the reservoir. If it’s sat at an angle in the boot then you need to stand it upright first and fill with hydraulic jack oil until it spills over the top. Then operate the roof and check the level hasn’t dropped. Only then fit it in the corner. Hopefully that should fix it
 
enuff_zed said:
More likely to be a low fluid level.
Ignore the ‘+’ mark on the reservoir. If it’s sat at an angle in the boot then you need to stand it upright first and fill with hydraulic jack oil until it spills over the top. Then operate the roof and check the level hasn’t dropped. Only then fit it in the corner. Hopefully that should fix it

So it should be full until overflowing after all the air has been taken out?

When I pulled it out it. The motor was all rusted and there was almost no fluid in the lines and tank. I filled it up 3 times and ran the system. The lines have no air now but the reservoir is only slightly above half full.

But I didn’t have the proper oil or jack oil so I pulled some universal tractor hydraulic/transmission fluid from my wood chipper’s hydraulic feed system.

To drain it when the zhm fluid arrives i just empty the tank and keep running the system and emptying the tank?
 
Tuna! said:
enuff_zed said:
More likely to be a low fluid level.
Ignore the ‘+’ mark on the reservoir. If it’s sat at an angle in the boot then you need to stand it upright first and fill with hydraulic jack oil until it spills over the top. Then operate the roof and check the level hasn’t dropped. Only then fit it in the corner. Hopefully that should fix it

So it should be full until overflowing after all the air has been taken out?

When I pulled it out it. The motor was all rusted and there was almost no fluid in the lines and tank. I filled it up 3 times and ran the system. The lines have no air now but the reservoir is only slightly above half full.

But I didn’t have the proper oil or jack oil so I pulled some universal tractor hydraulic/transmission fluid from my wood chipper’s hydraulic feed system.

To drain it when the zhm fluid arrives i just empty the tank and keep running the system and emptying the tank?
Fill until it overflows. You will see that there remains a small air gap. Once it is all free of air, top it up again until it overflows. Again you will still see a small air gap which prevents any possibility of a hydraulic lock.
It's going to be well-nigh impossible to empty all that fluid out from the rams and lines, but you can empty out the reservoir and potentially also crack the unions and run the pump which should push a bit more out.
If the oil you have already put in is a nice thin hydraulic oil I don't think you'll have much issue with it.
What make of woodchipper btw? Only ask as until a couple of months back I worked for Timberwolf as a technical author and redesigned all their manuals.
 
enuff_zed said:
Tuna! said:
enuff_zed said:
More likely to be a low fluid level.
Ignore the ‘+’ mark on the reservoir. If it’s sat at an angle in the boot then you need to stand it upright first and fill with hydraulic jack oil until it spills over the top. Then operate the roof and check the level hasn’t dropped. Only then fit it in the corner. Hopefully that should fix it

So it should be full until overflowing after all the air has been taken out?

When I pulled it out it. The motor was all rusted and there was almost no fluid in the lines and tank. I filled it up 3 times and ran the system. The lines have no air now but the reservoir is only slightly above half full.

But I didn’t have the proper oil or jack oil so I pulled some universal tractor hydraulic/transmission fluid from my wood chipper’s hydraulic feed system.

To drain it when the zhm fluid arrives i just empty the tank and keep running the system and emptying the tank?
Fill until it overflows. You will see that there remains a small air gap. Once it is all free of air, top it up again until it overflows. Again you will still see a small air gap which prevents any possibility of a hydraulic lock.
It's going to be well-nigh impossible to empty all that fluid out from the rams and lines, but you can empty out the reservoir and potentially also crack the unions and run the pump which should push a bit more out.
If the oil you have already put in is a nice thin hydraulic oil I don't think you'll have much issue with it.
What make of woodchipper btw? Only ask as until a couple of months back I worked for Timberwolf as a technical author and redesigned all their manuals.


Ok thanks. Do you think the universal hydraulic/transmission fluid is a problem? It says its a multi viscosity 10w 20.

Its a 20 year old Gravely Pro Chip 495. 12” disc type chipper with a turbo charged perkins diesel. She’s old and hard to find parts for but shes a beast
 
Tuna! said:
Do you think the universal hydraulic/transmission fluid is a problem? It says its a multi viscosity 10w 20.

Just checked the bottle of Hydraulic Jack Oil I use but it doesn't mention viscosity.
See how it goes, but if you do have to swap it then don't get too worried about leaving a little of the old stuff in there.
 
enuff_zed said:
Tuna! said:
Do you think the universal hydraulic/transmission fluid is a problem? It says its a multi viscosity 10w 20.

Just checked the bottle of Hydraulic Jack Oil I use but it doesn't mention viscosity.
See how it goes, but if you do have to swap it then don't get too worried about leaving a little of the old stuff in there.


Crap I have a leak. One of the lines in the drain well. I think its kinked very close to where the line ends and connects into something(?). I’m not sure exactly because I can’t see but there is a huge puddle probably from when it’s pressurized. Does this mean I will have to take off the soft top completely? Also is there anyway to repair the line? Or if I'm lucky maybe I can cut it and reattach it to whatever it feels like it’s attached to
 
Which side?
Most likely the bottom pipe where it turns 90 degrees and push fits into the bottom of the ram.
If water builds up in there it corrodes the metal end fitting.
You will need to replace the whole pipe.
It easily unclips from all around the rear frame.
You can lift the whole roof, or you can just lift one side far enough to access the ram.
 
Left drivers side directly in front of back wheel. I think I might try lifting one side. How exactly do I do that? Unbolt the 2 bolts near the door/seat? Do I have to undo any bolts in the trunk?

I’ve heard a few possibilities. One is hinges, i thought it was a line I felt that was kinked near where it connects, and pipe.
 
Tuna! said:
Left drivers side directly in front of back wheel. I think I might try lifting one side. How exactly do I do that? Unbolt the 2 bolts near the door/seat? Do I have to undo any bolts in the trunk?
Well those are the short pipes so no need to thread them across the car. That's a small win.
Undo those two bolts that hold the ram in. It sems you know how to access those then?

You are going to have to lower the roof by hand to gain access to the top of the ram. I got stuck doing one last week as even though one side was leaking, the other side wasn't and I got a hydfraulic lock, stopping the roof halfway.
To prevent this, surround the motor with loads of rags, then slightly crack the unions so fluid can escape as you move it.

Unclip the wiring loom that runs up behind the trim. Just pop its holders out from the metalwork. that'll give it enough slack to lift up.
Take the weird shaped rubber seal off. Be careful not to break the white plastic clip that holds it in place underneath.
You will need to remove the interior trim piece that is in front of the ram (or at least detach it from the ram and move it away slightly). There should be a small screw holding it into the top of the ram. (when you put it back together you need to make sure that trim slots properly in with the plastic trim around the ram).

Raise the roof back up, stopping a foot or so from the front. This gives enough slack in the material.
In the trunk, undo 4 or 5 of the 10mm bolts from the left side of the rear frame round to about the middle. Then prise out the rubber seal around the rear edge from the metalwork. Again, you only need to go from the left ram round to about the middle of the trunk.
Get someone to help you so you don't scratch the paintwork: lift the ram straight up then slightly forward until you can rest its bottom edge on the frame in front of it. At the same time your helper needs to push the frame down from above, then move it forward so the metal part comes up and rests on the bodywork. They should have towels or something similar to hand and wedge them under the frame so it doesn't scratch the car.
Then you should have access to the pipes.

NB. At the back of that ram there are two small black cubes, mounted one above the other on the hinge. These are the hall sensors that signal the roof is fully up or fully down and stop the motors running etc. Be very careful not to disturb these.

You will soon realise the correct order to do things, as once the roof is lowered you cannot get into the trunk to undo bolts etc.

It all sounds very complicated but with patience and forethought it's not too bad.

Though I've done many motor moves, I only did my first pipe replacement last week. It was a righthand one as well.
First I had to raise the left to relocate the motor, then bolt that back down, raise the right to replace the pipe, put it all back together, fill with oil, bleed it, refill, check then fit it all neatly into the corner. Took me four hours in total, going slow and thinking everything through twice.
 
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