Rear wheel alignment (tracking)

Liam22

Active member
Herts/Cambs
At my ride height and with adjustable camber arms, I'm unable to achieve toe out at the rear. This is not ideal for a positive turn-in.

Are there any mods, or parts that can give me more adjustability?

I'm guessing I could try to elongate the holes in the trailing arm pivot bracket (part 17)
Screenshot 2023-05-11 at 21.54.34.png

Anyone done this?
 
Liam22 said:
adjustable camber arms, I'm unable to achieve toe out at the rear.

Hi Liam . I don`t know the answer but sure someone will . Yes trying to move the trailing arm ( 17 ) you would think would have the desired effect but from what I remember there is not much room for movement or if there is enough room to fit a shim ?? I am assuming from what you have written it is the trailing arm not moving enough rather than running out of adjustability on the camber arms .
 
To echo the above comments, I think elongating the holes will be the best bet, but you might struggle with amount of metal left. I came across these (https://www.speedingparts.co.uk/p/chassis/car-suspension/steering-system/adjustable-toe-in-brackets-rear-bmw-e36-e46-z4.html) a while back as I will likely encounter the same problem once my adjustable camber arms are fitted. The issue is I am not sure how much space each side of the vertical bit of the bracket there is and it might require you to cut the bodywork a little bit.
 
It seems there are "adjustable" versions online. Looks like the holes are elongated and the bracket shape is changed slightly, probably to give more space to move in the space it goes in when mounted. I expect this will make the bushing become more rigid as well as the clamping surfaces touching the bushing are flat instead of embossed.
https://www.speedingparts.co.uk/p/c...ble-toe-in-brackets-rear-bmw-e36-e46-z4.html?

Other than that I think that elongating the holes on the OEM ones will quickly run out of material so you might have to cut and weld a new plate ot them. Or you could have a play with the shims that go either side of the bushes as mentionned by [ref]1536Z4[/ref] (as I think you run Stronglfex ones?) and put both shims on the same side. Maybe those two changes can make the OEM bracket work without having to cut and weld?
 
TheDan said:
I came across these (https://www.speedingparts.co.uk/p/chassis/car-suspension/steering-system/adjustable-toe-in-brackets-rear-bmw-e36-e46-z4.html)

Ooh, these look good. Thanks.
 
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