Rear camber arms

Stevie.w

Member
 Edinburgh
Just wondering if any members have fitted adjustable rear camber arms to their Z4M's and what makes they used. I've just purchased these from the statesc85d5ea312625a6ed9cfedd23a776738_zps82nnwl30.jpg
Looking at their spec they seem very good quality and materials are top grade.
 
Yeh http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-M3-S54_3.2L/Suspension/ES2682175/
They look even better than Eibach fellies, so far their coming in at $344. Which at rate to day is £237, I'll still have import duties on top but I know they'll be cheaper than Eibach. Once here I'll post some pics and let you know their quality. Ordered Sunday night, shipping says here tomorrow :o
 
I'm running Turner Motosport rear arms, they came from the states, I can't remember exactly how much but price sounds similar from memory...
... http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3552-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-e36-e46-e85-turner-motorsport-streettrack.aspx
 
JimmiVW said:
I'm running Turner Motosport rear arms, they came from the states, I can't remember exactly how much but price sounds similar from memory...
... http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3552-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-e36-e46-e85-turner-motorsport-streettrack.aspx
Are you using the rose jointed ones? I thought about them as they get rave reviews, just thought I'd try something else. The anodised black appealed also.
 
Stevie.w said:
JimmiVW said:
I'm running Turner Motosport rear arms, they came from the states, I can't remember exactly how much but price sounds similar from memory...
... http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3552-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-e36-e46-e85-turner-motorsport-streettrack.aspx
Are you using the rose jointed ones? I thought about them as they get rave reviews, just thought I'd try something else. The anodised black appealed also.

I didn't go for the rose jointed ones as the car is used on the road a lot as well as occasional track days... Was concerned about a 'too solid' setup!
- have to say I prefer the black ones to the anodised blue - quite pleased all the 'clown coloured' bits are underneath the car to be honest!!!
 
10.31am and camber arms arrived today WOW!!! That's impressive :)
Couple of pics 4432cab9a5a13012182cba0cc7bd6750_zpspohicgng.jpg3c77bfcae3a321f85af006a8b806cd5a_zpspfrtlwf3.jpgfdf23de7093b81bb310558992c113bb4_zpsmuakkw7b.jpg
They do impress me with the machine quality and that the main bodies are both billet machined. Don't think there's much in it between these and Turner's, aesthetically I prefer the ECS. STEALTH's the main goal in my project.
 

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The OEM system uses a simple eccentric bolt for camber adjustment and I've found it very simple to adjust. So what's the advantage of these arms for anything other than a race car, which might require more camber?
 
exdos said:
The OEM system uses a simple eccentric bolt for camber adjustment and I've found it very simple to adjust. So what's the advantage of these arms for anything other than a race car, which might require more camber?
What you normally find when you lower the car the standard adjustment isn't sufficient to correct excessive camber. These allow you to adjust it to whatever you require. You can also use them to push the hub out to fill out the arch and then use a Whiteline camber adjustment bush in the top of the hub to fine tune your camber.
 
I run virtually zero rear camber with OEM rear camber adjustment and ACS Racing suspension, and push the wheels out with 10mm spacers.
 
I run virtually zero rear camber with OEM rear camber adjustment and ACS Racing suspension, and push the wheels out with 10mm spacers.
 
Stevie.w said:
You can also use them to push the hub out to fill out the arch and then use a Whiteline camber adjustment bush in the top of the hub to fine tune your camber.

That's possible but you'll only gain about 4mm (that's about the extra width you get with max adjustment with a camber adjustment bush).
If you want to fill out the arch, a spacer or wheels with different ET would be more effective/easier I think.
At the rear you hardly have to worry about scrub radius etc.

Is that a rubber bushing that is press fitted in the inner joint and is it the same size as the stock one? (so that you can replace it with PU)
 
You also find the OEM camber bolts rust themselves to the bush sleeve once the car gets to a certain age and you have to cut the bolt and replace the bush to change them :headbang:
 
Reason I got mine was the 'fear' of not having enough camber adjustment when lowering, but I can see where Exodus is coming from in terms of overkill Vs eccentric bolt adjustment. In the end my car wasn't lowered all that much so it probably really wasn't necessary for my requirements.

I swapped out the arms at the same time as all the other suspension changes (coilovers, arbs, bushes) so it made sense to do it all at once...
... the camber arms are a bit of a pig where they mount near the diff (it's very tight to get your tool it!) so it's worth planning for that.

There was also some speculation of the US forums about the standard arms bending, but I really think this was only down to 'mis-use' rather than defects, certainly not enough reason to swap in my mind.
 
JimmiVW said:
There was also some speculation of the US forums about the standard arms bending, but I really think this was only down to 'mis-use' rather than defects, certainly not enough reason to swap in my mind.

The lower arms are somewhat a sacrificial part. So when hittin a curb or so (that means: drivers error), it's nice that the lower control arm takes the blow.
Much easier and cheaper to replace than say... a subframe or trailing arm.
 
GuidoK said:
Stevie.w said:
You can also use them to push the hub out to fill out the arch and then use a Whiteline camber adjustment bush in the top of the hub to fine tune your camber.

That's possible but you'll only gain about 4mm (that's about the extra width you get with max adjustment with a camber adjustment bush).
If you want to fill out the arch, a spacer or wheels with different ET would be more effective/easier I think.
At the rear you hardly have to worry about scrub radius etc.

Is that a rubber bushing that is press fitted in the inner joint and is it the same size as the stock one? (so that you can replace it with PU)
They are rubber bushings fitted, but I've poly bushes both top/bottom inner bushes. With the expected power, I need to control the suspension fairly tightly. I've sized the adjustment available on these arms and they can run 10mm shorter than standard and 30mm larger. So there's plenty scope for setting up., what I'm well impressed with is the threaded bar and threads in billet ends. They are very well machined with no play at all.
 
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