Can you tell me the size and type of bit required for the 108's bolts? Thinking of backing mine off and back up before I get them done, to reduce the possibility of damage.
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
Question for Mr Wilks...
- Thread starter Ducklakeview
- Start date
It's an 8mm 12 point spline drive.
I strongly suggest you get a decent bit and one that can be used on a socket set, torque wrench, etc. (directly or via adapter)
I strongly suggest you get a decent bit and one that can be used on a socket set, torque wrench, etc. (directly or via adapter)
By the seaside...
What I will add to the above after parting 15-20 sets of these is don't buy cheap bits & try to get a "feel" when the bolt won't move & move on to one opposite on the wheel face . Very often I found leaving the ones that seemingly won't budge very often do .
Other tips if you find yours difficult
I would always loosen in random star pattern as opposed to round the clock
The ones around the valve are usually the tightest :?
Forget all notions of soaking with penetrating oil or using heat/cold to loosen , ive tried them all with zero effect
What I found worked best is a 50mm long 12 spline that I "strike" with a lump hammer 2/3 times each bolt to break the seal
Then have a different bit to do the loosen & remove immediately after striking
Finally If you should get a snapped head I found a easier way to remove them than drilling out , with centre removed I grind 2 flat sides onto the remaining stump & use tiny spanners to turn the thread out
Other tips if you find yours difficult
I would always loosen in random star pattern as opposed to round the clock
The ones around the valve are usually the tightest :?
Forget all notions of soaking with penetrating oil or using heat/cold to loosen , ive tried them all with zero effect
What I found worked best is a 50mm long 12 spline that I "strike" with a lump hammer 2/3 times each bolt to break the seal
Then have a different bit to do the loosen & remove immediately after striking
Finally If you should get a snapped head I found a easier way to remove them than drilling out , with centre removed I grind 2 flat sides onto the remaining stump & use tiny spanners to turn the thread out
markplant said:
But then I wouldn't gt other hints, tips and advice
Mike
mr wilks said:What I will add to the above after parting 15-20 sets of these is don't buy cheap bits & try to get a "feel" when the bolt won't move & move on to one opposite on the wheel face . Very often I found leaving the ones that seemingly won't budge very often do .
Other tips if you find yours difficult
I would always loosen in random star pattern as opposed to round the clock
The ones around the valve are usually the tightest :?
Forget all notions of soaking with penetrating oil or using heat/cold to loosen , ive tried them all with zero effect
What I found worked best is a 50mm long 12 spline that I "strike" with a lump hammer 2/3 times each bolt to break the seal
Then have a different bit to do the loosen & remove immediately after striking
Finally If you should get a snapped head I found a easier way to remove them than drilling out , with centre removed I grind 2 flat sides onto the remaining stump & use tiny spanners to turn the thread out
Or do as I do and just spin them out with an airgun. I find it removes all the faffing around and risk of twisting the bit on a ratchet or T bar. High quality tools are the key to this...
Totally agree re all your comments about removing snapped studs and not wasting time on penetrating oil, heat/cold, etc.