McKoval said:If you are interested in non-M setups, Ill find and ppost mine
did you change naything from factory recommended setup?
ga41 said:Dont have a printout of my latest geo i'm afraid but i veered off the factory settings myself. Told the guy to remove the alignment pins and to get as much camber as possible for starters. Dont remember what i did with toe though since it's been several months ago. The car feels slightly more aggressive in its setup and slightly less understeery which is what i wanted really.
Blue said:I'll have to try and find mine, been a while since I had it done.
I noticed that the Zed has an aggressive rear camber though, (I think mine was about -2.4), has anyone tried bringing that down a touch? Was thinking -2 or -1.8? I would just like my rear tyres to last a little longer!
-2.4 on the rear is not possible unless you're running adjustable arms or have some serious suspension fatigue going down :?Blue said:I'll have to try and find mine, been a while since I had it done.
I noticed that the Zed has an aggressive rear camber though, (I think mine was about -2.4), has anyone tried bringing that down a touch? Was thinking -2 or -1.8? I would just like my rear tyres to last a little longer!
a11y said:Great idea for a thread Ali. I'm going to copy you and start one for the non-elite (non-M's) I think.
I'm also unsure what the factory set-up is, but that's what I asked my guy in Bonnybridge to do when I had mine done, and it's quite a bit different on my 3.0i to your M...
Edit: non-///M geometry thread HERE![]()
daz05 said:My guess is that they are different because its very difficult to get them exactly the same, as long as they are close you should be ok. See above, within 0.03 degrees is recommended for toe for example.
Google each term and read up on what they mean, toe, camber and caster.
There is no 'correct' setting, these settings all work differently in different situations. It's all down to preference at the end of the day. The settings are a trade off between turn in, balance, understeer, oversteer and overall stability.
A car with Eibachs as standard will have more camber than a car without, so you adjust accordingly.
His toe settings at 0º8' on the front equates to 0.13º each side, on the rear left 0º12' equates to 0.2º and 0º13' on the right equates to 0.22º. One day perhaps all angle measurements will be quoted in decimal degrees as opposed to degrees, minutes and seconds? Even better, radians would be better to remove any ambiguity in which method of angle measurement is being used!daz05 said:I found this on PH, mmmmm five was the author. He said:
"If that's on standard suspension (correctly ballasted & balanced with simulated driver & fuel), then the factory figures are:
Front Camber -1.0º(±0.3º) - with no more than a 0.3º difference between left & right
Rear Camber -1.8º(±0.3º) - with no more than a 0.3º difference between left & right
Front Toe: 0.03º to 0.13º
Rear Toe: 0.18º to 0.28º"
So Ali looks like you need more toe on the rear this time, after driving it the rear never felt right more toe would make the your car feel more stable. I'd also be looking to reduce the front toe figure if you feel you need a better turn in.