paint thickness
- Thread starter deka
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
Unfortunately the answer depends on a lot of factors. If you've had the car from new and there's been no paint repair work on the car, then the typical paint ratios will be 25% base, 25% colour and 50% clear. Paint depth varies significantly between car manufacturers and colour, for example the latest white pearlescent paints are overall thicker than for solid colours. Paint thickness can also vary between panels.
If you want to be sure before machine polishing, then get a pro to measure the panels with a multi-level depth gauge or you can use a standard depth gauge and make comparative readings between the panel you want to polish and the depth of paint under the bonnet and on the interior of the doors to get an approximation of the top coat depth. You need to ensure you don't go below 50% of the original top coat depth or the top coat structure and integrity will be significantly reduced.
You are typically only removing a few microns of the top coat with a mild cutting pad/compound when used properly. But you are correct in that each time you machine polish you are removing more and more of the top coat. Aggressive pads/compounds and poor technique will take off more of the top coat more quickly.
The best advice I have been given is to buy an old panel from a breakers yard and practice on that first until you are happy with using your polisher and the different pad/compound variations.
Also look around for an introductory course to get some hands on training with different polisher DA/Rotary and advice.
If you want to be sure before machine polishing, then get a pro to measure the panels with a multi-level depth gauge or you can use a standard depth gauge and make comparative readings between the panel you want to polish and the depth of paint under the bonnet and on the interior of the doors to get an approximation of the top coat depth. You need to ensure you don't go below 50% of the original top coat depth or the top coat structure and integrity will be significantly reduced.
You are typically only removing a few microns of the top coat with a mild cutting pad/compound when used properly. But you are correct in that each time you machine polish you are removing more and more of the top coat. Aggressive pads/compounds and poor technique will take off more of the top coat more quickly.
The best advice I have been given is to buy an old panel from a breakers yard and practice on that first until you are happy with using your polisher and the different pad/compound variations.
Also look around for an introductory course to get some hands on training with different polisher DA/Rotary and advice.
im watching this thread with real interest, Im teetering on the edge of trying machine polishing but im now having second thoughts as i dont want to get a panel to practice on as if its that dangerous then i probably wont bother which is a shame as i was expecting to really enjoy polishing
A
Anonymous
Guest
Don't be afraid of machine polishing, the idea of getting a cheap panel from a breakers for £15-20 is that you can try out different combinations of pads/compounds and also to feel comfortable using your machine to practice polishing out marks and defects. You can rough up the practice panel and polish out the marks, which is not something you'd want to do on your actual car.
p28msc said:
People on forums are very negative about machine polishing and make it sound as if you are almost certain to damage your paint work
If you do enough research watching videos and guides on the techniques involved there is no reason for it to go wrong
It really is very easy once you have done your first couple of panels
Z4-35i said:
Plus 1
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It's very difficult to damage your paintwork with a DA but I took paint thickness measurements over the whole car before & after I did my Zed just to make sure I knew where the clear coat was at it's thinnest (for me it was at the bottom of the bonnet). Hence I was much more careful there with polish/pad choice.
I've since had the bonnet resprayed by BMW so I think I have a very healthy clear coat layer now across the whole car and when I next give it a polish (probably beginning of autumn) I won't re-measure paint thickness because the paint will need much less correction and a much milder cutting polish.
I've since had the bonnet resprayed by BMW so I think I have a very healthy clear coat layer now across the whole car and when I next give it a polish (probably beginning of autumn) I won't re-measure paint thickness because the paint will need much less correction and a much milder cutting polish.
You will eventually go through so be carefull.deka said:Hasn't put me off giving it a try i was just asking if i could only do it say two or three times..... need to read up on how to do it or book a course
Especially carefull on the edges as they are the most vulnerable.
p28msc said:
That all depends on the condition of your paint. If you keep it well, wash & dry it properly, use a good quality wax/sealant then you shouldn't need to machine polish very often at all.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Once you've corrected the paint defects with cutting polish, then it's down to careful maintenance to ensure you don't re-damage the paint surface. You shouldn't need to perform major paint correction every year.
Wash the car carefully, two bucket method and a mit. Lot's of details on the net covering this, you can also pre-wash with a snow foam if you have a pressure washer and suitable lance.
Use a wax and or sealant to protect the finish.
You can use a light finishing polish as necessary but you shouldn't need to do this too regularly.
Each manufacturers paint stages and finish are different so it's difficult to make definitive recommendations. If you have any concerns around the remaining paint thickness then it's best to get it checked by a pro body shop.
Wash the car carefully, two bucket method and a mit. Lot's of details on the net covering this, you can also pre-wash with a snow foam if you have a pressure washer and suitable lance.
Use a wax and or sealant to protect the finish.
You can use a light finishing polish as necessary but you shouldn't need to do this too regularly.
Each manufacturers paint stages and finish are different so it's difficult to make definitive recommendations. If you have any concerns around the remaining paint thickness then it's best to get it checked by a pro body shop.
p28msc said:
Once you have corrected once with the machine as long as you don't re introduce swirls. And scratches from poor washing techniques you won't need to do it again
I use my machine to apply glaze's and wax
You need a pad that is very soft, chemical guys do a wax pad. Use the .machine on its slowest speed and apply the wax or glaze as you would by hand. Its much quicker than hand
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