Replaced the DMTL Pump on my 2008 Roadster this weekend. This video is pretty good at covering the job: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnKRwc6K6W4.
More details:
The right rear wheel and wheel well cover need to be removed. There's a mix of fasteners involved (going by memory here):
(3) plastic nuts, 10mm
(3) plastic push pins. Grab the head with a pair of needle-nose pliers and pull to loosen
(3) 8mm (videographer states 7mm) screws (1 machine, 2 self tapping) that attach the wheel well cover to the rear bumper cover.
(2) T20 Torx screws at the front of the cover
There's a small box attached to the cover with an electrical connector (maybe for TPMS) . Disconnect this so you can move the cover out of your way.
(3) #2 Philips screws that attach the pump.
One electrical connection and two ports on the pump. There's a locking ring that holds one of the ports to a hose with a 90 degree connection. The hardest part of the hold job was getting pliers on the ring to squeeze and release the lock.
If you don't run into any snags, the job can be done easily in an hour. Just don't muscle-futz and break any of the plastic connections.
I used an OBD reader to clear the code & SES light. Drove it around for all of the monitors to check in.
Was quoted over $900 USD by a dealer for this repair. Rock Auto has the part. Got the Bosch (probably the OEM) pump for around $60 USD delivered. Fairly easy repair.
Hope this helps.
More details:
The right rear wheel and wheel well cover need to be removed. There's a mix of fasteners involved (going by memory here):
(3) plastic nuts, 10mm
(3) plastic push pins. Grab the head with a pair of needle-nose pliers and pull to loosen
(3) 8mm (videographer states 7mm) screws (1 machine, 2 self tapping) that attach the wheel well cover to the rear bumper cover.
(2) T20 Torx screws at the front of the cover
There's a small box attached to the cover with an electrical connector (maybe for TPMS) . Disconnect this so you can move the cover out of your way.
(3) #2 Philips screws that attach the pump.
One electrical connection and two ports on the pump. There's a locking ring that holds one of the ports to a hose with a 90 degree connection. The hardest part of the hold job was getting pliers on the ring to squeeze and release the lock.
If you don't run into any snags, the job can be done easily in an hour. Just don't muscle-futz and break any of the plastic connections.
I used an OBD reader to clear the code & SES light. Drove it around for all of the monitors to check in.
Was quoted over $900 USD by a dealer for this repair. Rock Auto has the part. Got the Bosch (probably the OEM) pump for around $60 USD delivered. Fairly easy repair.
Hope this helps.
