New Rotary

N

Nova2k7

Senior member
 Halifax - West Yorkshire
Well ive been using a DA polisher for about 3 years now and ive got the full 3M polish and pads but ive not been getting the finish ive been looking for due to the low power of the DA.

so ive finally gone and ordered a Silverline 'SilverStorm' Rotary Polisher from clean your car. has anyone any experiance with these?
 
As much as I know 3m polishing compounds are not suited for DA polishing. The best reault you can get from an DA is to use it with Meguiars micro fiber pol pad and 3000D pol compound.
Any way you must read this to obtain a better picture of what I'm speaking about:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/meguiars-da-microfiber-polishing-system/
Further more, with a DA you will never obtain a fast and superb finish like with a rotary maschine! But, as it always exist ther is a big chanse to burn your paint. Working with rotary is not a science but it request practice. I'm not a pro but I obtain great results using 3m perfect it iii, fast cut +, extrafina compound and ultra fina polish, with corresponding padas, 150 mm for biger panels and 75 mm smaller parts of the car.
And this is my brand new rotary polisher:
673769f0.jpg
One more tips before going on with a rotary, search the detailingworld.com regarding the ZENITH method of polishing for best and safe results!
 
Regarding your question. They are all the same! The only two differences are the weight( mine is 2,5 kg) and the capability of not sufer of overheating after a long time of continuous working, but this is a matter of pros. If you like it go for it! Wish you lot of fun with your detailing!
 
To whom it may concern, I have in pdf the rotary/DA polishing bible. If any one wants it sand me email address and i'll send him back the bibles. It is a very useful and comprehensive guide for rotary and da polishing!
 
is burning your paint really as high of a risk as people say? ive seen videos of people having to put some serious speed and pressure to even start burning paint and often the pad explodes before the paint is damaged?
 
Nova2k7 said:
is burning your paint really as high of a risk as people say? ive seen videos of people having to put some serious speed and pressure to even start burning paint and often the pad explodes before the paint is damaged?
Click to expand...

It can happen very quickly but if you are on te ball it won't happen. Your more likely to burn through if the pad isn't sitting flat on the paint. I did a test once on a practise panel and burnt through paint in 2 seconds or so holding the rotary at an angle. Keep pads level and shouldn't have any issues.
 
It depends of few factors. First one is hardness of your paint. From my experience black sapphire metallic on my zed is one of hardest paints, on the side bmw's jet black is one softes paints on the market. Like I said I am not a pro, and I don't have so much experience but I never burn the paint. But still the point of good polishing is not to avoid burning the paint but obtain best results trying to cut less paint as possible! It means that you will use 3m fc+ eather way for light swirls and small correction and also to make bigger correction. The diff is that for firast one you will be more gentle with the rotary. The rotary is makeing swirls, and this can't be avoided, but to minimise that you need to practice. Hopefully 3m made extrafina and ultrafina to give you the nice deep cristal finish!
 
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