My Turn for the Roof to break

[Stash36]

So, road trip next week, chunnel booked, return ferry booked, extra insurance and euro breakdown cover sorted, got my Antwerp ULEZ permission and Green Euro4 Sticker for Germany. One last fling before she's is sold.

You guessed it. Bong! Unbelievable.

So I've been reading up and got the exact same issue this chap has in the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZVVFxi6dac

The green and brown wires on the right hand side are showing signs of breaking, although not quite through.
I'm now struggling to get at the connector for the microswitch, which is up behind the wiring loom, cannot get near it, is there a way to get access to it? I'm temped to cut it off and try a wire from there to prove the fault, and be able to lock the windows and car.

If I expose the wire a bit more and short circuit the wires where I have easy access, will that prove my problem? In effect the switch will be closed, as it is bypassed? Is that correct?

Here is the exposed wires, left hand side has been checked and looks ok.

 

[john-e89]

Why not cut out the problem areas you've shown and solder in new wire Stash...?

 

[flybobbie]

I would also check the other pair, you have still wrapped.
This stage could just use some butt joints to see you through the trip.
Not too hard to just solder and tape for now.

Break seems exact same spot my cars wires broke.
Strange really.


Beginning to wonder if it's the same problem as boot, random wire stripper slicing.
Surely not a random coincidence.
You need to pull cabin roof liner off to get at the switches.
Pull back the rubber window trim and put hand in gap and gently push down.
Liner is press clipped in.

 

[Stash36]

Thanks. On the video I linked he has a second break to the microswitch in the window clamshell, so towards the back of the car, not the front, so there are more micro switches under the headlining, ok.

Other wires here have been checked and rewrapped. Haven't got a code reader, really want to prove I'm in the right spot before I start cutting wires and making things worse. I do have a Carly which says A670 but that is not in Robbie's list of errors. Thought I had escaped this, been flawless these last three years and with the age I thought someone must have already sorted the wires.

In addition, I've been wondering why the car won't try and lock with the remote. I think I may have left the tray up before the deck dropped which may mean I'm goosed. Off to work now to forget about it for a bit

 

[Stash36]

So an update. I hadn't left the tray up thank goodness.
Auto electrician came out today. The exposed wire is not broken, (although needs sorting out) the two coupling lock switches are working ok.
With the two switches pressed in by hand (one of us on each corner just lifting the window shell up slightly) we were able to open the boot (i've managed to close the windows from this position too, as I have a smart top, two clicks on the remote).

So on pressing the open button get a flashing red light. Feels like the two rams that secure the window shell tightly are what is now not working. He reckons there are now no errrors and feels like the live feed is not correct as there must be errors stored.
He's back tomorrow.

 

[Stash36]

Update, the motor is knackered. It shows a lot of rust and boot has had water issues in the past. I replaced the lights myself 3 years ago to solve. Hydraulic fluid was low and no obvious leaks so it may be leaking internally. Auto electrician gave the motor a tap and it locked the roof into position when next tried. Haven't risked trying any further as I have my trip to Europe tomorrow. So no retractable roof but I have locking windows and an opening boot!
Any recommendations for motor rebuild / refurbs let me know.

 

[Stash36]

Had a search on here and got very excited at the You can use an Audi A5 roof motor and they're 150 quid thread!
Fortunately, Robbie came along to say it's bollocks shortly after.

Can someone confirm I need the three valve version and cannot use the later four valve version? 2009 car.
Are there cheaper options than the £800 refurbs I'm seeing on the bay?

 

[RobbiZ4]

Can someone confirm I need the three valve version and cannot use the later four valve version? 2009 car.
Are there cheaper options than the £800 refurbs I'm seeing on the bay?

You can mount both versions without any issue. The 4th solenoid will not be used by your car, but doesn't disturb anything.
Try to find just a motor for a replacement as it's simply connected with just 2 screws.

Hydraulic fluid was low and no obvious leaks so it may be leaking internally.

That conclusion is wrong. There can't be any "internal" leaks. Either a leak and you will loose the complete oil or there isn't any loss possible over lifetime. The operating pressure is 180 bar (~2k6 psi).

 

[Stash36]

Thank you Robbie, back from euro trip now so will try and find a motor. Has anyone used the Chinese motor component on eBay for about £100, as a solution?

Car did 39mpg overall which I think is fantastic, two tanks for over 800 miles. (2.5 litre)

 

[RobbiZ4]

Has anyone used the Chinese motor component on eBay for about £100, as a solution?

Never heard about that. Do you have a link?

 

[Stash36]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185875270395?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=th-dnfystue&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=rqLZmGNlSTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[B21]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185875270395?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=th-dnfystue&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=rqLZmGNlSTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I think thats only valid for E85s..not E89s :thumbsdown:

 

[RobbiZ4]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185875270395?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=th-dnfystue&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=rqLZmGNlSTC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks!

I think thats only valid for E85s..not E89s :thumbsdown:

Correct.

That's exact the reason why I didn't see a Chinese replacement before for our E89.
It's for E85 hydraulic pumps only.

And even for the elder E85 models it's AFAIK no recommendation, as there are some technical weaks on these cheapest models from CN.

 

[Stash36]

Ok thanks both. Looks like a recon motor.

 

[Stash36]

Just to close this thread, new motor fitted by Jamie from AHR Autotech in North Manchester, and he also sorted the wires in the shell that were close to breaking.

Lovely guy, happy to take on this job and stick with it, looked after my car, brought a gazebo along yesterday as it was wet.
Wouldn't hesitate to use again and highly recommended.
ahrautotechs.co.uk

Oh, got the new motor from Roofmotors.co.uk, actually found it on ebay. £400 with £50 cashback in return for my old motor.
The guy there was useful and knew his stuff as well, we needed to call him with a query.
I'm about £700 quid all done now with the labour, could be worse and nice to have the roof back, it feels like a catastrophe when it fails, I'm sure many of you have been there. Plan was to sell after my road trip, now I want to plan another.

 

[B21]

Good write up…good to hear how things get concluded

 

[Stash36]

Hmm, new problem. The roof will open really jerky every now and again, about 1 time in 6 it's happening, on retry it is fine, smooth as usual. I've searched here and found this reported but not intermittent and I've not seen a clear resolution. I've seen suggestions of water or air in the system.
Any ideas, is there a way to bleed it?

 

[RobbiZ4]

No water or air in the closed hydraulic system is possible without opening the hoses manually (or by a broken hose). But, just check the hydraulic fluid level on the reservoir. It should be between middle and up to the top marker.

 

[Stash36]

Thanks Robbi fluid level is bang on the top marker.

 

[DonDon]

Do you need to add some lithium grease on the (many) joints and hinges?