Most reliable Z4 for £13k to £16k

[n1ck]

Thanks, will do. From the sounds of it, most sense would be to get a 2015 18i, lower mileage car and remap to 28i performance rather than actually buying a 2014 28i, higher mileage for the same money.
This is perfect and exactly the advice I was after.

 

[Chippie]

The 18i is the entry level Zed so be careful when checking the options fitted as generally if someone is getting the extras they tend to go for a 20 or 28.

 

[Pondrew]

Thanks, will do. From the sounds of it, most sense would be to get a 2015 18i, lower mileage car and remap to 28i performance

OR buy a 2013 18i with very low mileage which has already been mapped. Cheaper and realistically is not going to have any problems for at least another 40k miles (if at all as it isn't a 'given'). With the money you save you could put £1,000 aside 'just in case'.

Win win?

 

[enuff_zed]

Is that all the difference is between a 18i and a 28i? A remap? That’s mad.

I believe the 28i actually had slightly bigger front brakes, but now running my 20i with 279bhp and have never felt the brakes were in any way not good enough.

 

[Pondrew]

I believe the 28i actually had slightly bigger front brakes,

Yes, 30mm larger I believe. Like you say, with decent discs and pads the smaller brakes are more than sufficient IME. I had a 440i with huge M-performance calipers and discs. They were far inferior to the items on my Z4 (and they squeaked)!

 

[DonDon]

Thanks, will do. From the sounds of it, most sense would be to get a 2015 18i, lower mileage car and remap to 28i performance

OR buy a 2013 18i with very low mileage which has already been mapped. Cheaper and realistically is not going to have any problems for at least another 40k miles (if at all as it isn't a 'given'). With the money you save you could put £1,000 aside 'just in case'.

Win win?

The £1,000 is to retro fit the updated cam chain components as a precaution. If an unmodified one let go, I think the damage could be terminal, but certainly VERY expensive to fix.

 

[Pondrew]

The £1,000 is to retro fit the updated cam chain components as a precaution. If an unmodified one let go, I think the damage could be terminal, but certainly VERY expensive to fix.

Yes but the consensus seems to be they give notice before 'letting go', ie become noisy. Not sure as never had the issue TBH. I have a neighbour with a 2013 528i with the same N20 engine. That has done 120k miles. He has only ever had it serviced and it still runs absolutely fine. :?

 

[Silverstar]

Thanks, will do. From the sounds of it, most sense would be to get a 2015 18i, lower mileage car and remap to 28i performance

OR buy a 2013 18i with very low mileage which has already been mapped. Cheaper and realistically is not going to have any problems for at least another 40k miles (if at all as it isn't a 'given'). With the money you save you could put £1,000 aside 'just in case'.

Win win?

This would make sense! And if one want's to be totally sure (as sure as can be) that there will be no problems in the future just spend the grand and get the updated chain and bits and do it preemptively. Realisitically if you want to get a N20 that gives no problems and considering the change happened in 2015 you will be looking at 2016 cars to be sure to get the updated engine but then that will cost you a lot more than a decent earlier car with low miles.

Before I got my Z4 I was thinking about getting the E92 M3 and kept it in my mind that whatever car I happened to purchase if there was no proof of a reputable outfit having changed the rod bearings, then to just add £1500 to the purchase price and get them done for peace of mind.

 

[n1ck]

My understanding is that older cars with very low miles can be slightly problematic as it doesn’t get used and things can seize and rubbers can prematurely perish/crack.
The good thing with 2015+ cars is that all other components are a bit newer as well. This would make most sense I think in my situation.

 

[DonDon]

Thanks, will do. From the sounds of it, most sense would be to get a 2015 18i, lower mileage car and remap to 28i performance

OR buy a 2013 18i with very low mileage which has already been mapped. Cheaper and realistically is not going to have any problems for at least another 40k miles (if at all as it isn't a 'given'). With the money you save you could put £1,000 aside 'just in case'.

Win win?

This would make sense! And if one want's to be totally sure (as sure as can be) that there will be no problems in the future just spend the grand and get the updated chain and bits and do it preemptively. Realisitically if you want to get a N20 that gives no problems and considering the change happened in 2015 you will be looking at 2016 cars to be sure to get the updated engine but then that will cost you a lot more than a decent earlier car with low miles.

Before I got my Z4 I was thinking about getting the E92 M3 and kept it in my mind that whatever car I happened to purchase if there was no proof of a reputable outfit having changed the rod bearings, then to just add £1500 to the purchase price and get them done for peace of mind.

Thanks, will do. From the sounds of it, most sense would be to get a 2015 18i, lower mileage car and remap to 28i performance

OR buy a 2013 18i with very low mileage which has already been mapped. Cheaper and realistically is not going to have any problems for at least another 40k miles (if at all as it isn't a 'given'). With the money you save you could put £1,000 aside 'just in case'.

Win win?

This would make sense! And if one want's to be totally sure (as sure as can be) that there will be no problems in the future just spend the grand and get the updated chain and bits and do it preemptively. Realisitically if you want to get a N20 that gives no problems and considering the change happened in 2015 you will be looking at 2016 cars to be sure to get the updated engine but then that will cost you a lot more than a decent earlier car with low miles.

Before I got my Z4 I was thinking about getting the E92 M3 and kept it in my mind that whatever car I happened to purchase if there was no proof of a reputable outfit having changed the rod bearings, then to just add £1500 to the purchase price and get them done for peace of mind.

I believe the design change was VERY early in 2015.

 

[Pondrew]

My understanding is that older cars with very low miles can be slightly problematic as it doesn’t get used and things can seize and rubbers can prematurely perish/crack.
The good thing with 2015+ cars is that all other components are a bit newer as well. This would make most sense I think in my situation.

OK I give up trying to flog you my car! :roll: :lol:

BTW rubbers only perish and crack if they are not looked after. You go and find yourself a 2015 car which you will have no idea how well it's been looked after (unless it's a 'known car on here). I hope you find a good one, seriously.

 

[r4row]

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=142379

 

[Silverstar]

My understanding is that older cars with very low miles can be slightly problematic as it doesn’t get used and things can seize and rubbers can prematurely perish/crack.
The good thing with 2015+ cars is that all other components are a bit newer as well. This would make most sense I think in my situation.

This is and isn't true all depends on how the car is kept which you can tell by looking at the car. I have purchased many old but very low miles cars all without any problems. But yes of course the newer the car the components will be newer / fresher.