For future reference a spray called CT1 Multi solve works wonders on softening silicone so it’s easily removedMeds said:
Spoiler gone!
What an absolute pain in the rear that was!
The silicon sealant around the perimeter was nuclear blast resistant! I tried everything. Tar remover, numerous solvent cleaners.
I also tried one of those caramel wheels that you stick on a drill, that also struggled but I wussed out anyway as it was just crying out for me to burn through the paint.
Petrol and much scraping with an old credit card eventually removed it. The process took me about 6 hours!
A 2 stage machine polish and it now looks like new.
The spoiler will be in the for sale section soon enough. I think these were a BMW option from new??
It's very nice. Deep glossy carbon 3k and fits perfectly, but just not for my taste.
Meds 3.0si Coupe - Rear brake upgrade in progress.
- Thread starter Meds
- Start date
What a beauty! (tha day before I started hacking her to bits):
What I'm fixing:
What have a I started!?:
What I found! (yuck!):
What have I done!? (my morning view):
What I broke (drilled out screw and a twisted clip):
At this point I have to stop as I'm awaiting some parts before I reverse the process with the new painted wing.
Overall it wasnt too bad, I was dreading the adhesive that sticks the outer to the inner but I must have got lucky as there was hardly any.
I had to drill out a screw, because I wasnt taking enough time and I rounded the torx head. Those M6x16 screws are in REALLY tight.
Process simply put; Jack up, remove wheel, remove arch liner, remove rear bumper, remove light, loosen sill cover, remove filler neck cover, undo all nuts along the way, wiggle waggle pull push yank.
It took me about 4 hours and many glasses of wine.
I'm pleasently surprised that I've found no more major problem rust. Just a few spots on the topside of the middle arch which has started between the exposed primer and spot welds, I will apply some BH Hydrate-80 to them. Nothing from underneath so I think this is caused by condensation in the void between the outer arch and middle arch.
The rear crash bar is pretty corroded, though. I'm not concerned though as it's easily replaced. If I have any BH left over I'll give it a coat.
I plan to Waxoyl the inner lip where those plastic clips sit before installing back.
What I'm fixing:
What have a I started!?:
What I found! (yuck!):
What have I done!? (my morning view):
What I broke (drilled out screw and a twisted clip):
At this point I have to stop as I'm awaiting some parts before I reverse the process with the new painted wing.
Overall it wasnt too bad, I was dreading the adhesive that sticks the outer to the inner but I must have got lucky as there was hardly any.
I had to drill out a screw, because I wasnt taking enough time and I rounded the torx head. Those M6x16 screws are in REALLY tight.
Process simply put; Jack up, remove wheel, remove arch liner, remove rear bumper, remove light, loosen sill cover, remove filler neck cover, undo all nuts along the way, wiggle waggle pull push yank.
It took me about 4 hours and many glasses of wine.
I'm pleasently surprised that I've found no more major problem rust. Just a few spots on the topside of the middle arch which has started between the exposed primer and spot welds, I will apply some BH Hydrate-80 to them. Nothing from underneath so I think this is caused by condensation in the void between the outer arch and middle arch.
The rear crash bar is pretty corroded, though. I'm not concerned though as it's easily replaced. If I have any BH left over I'll give it a coat.
I plan to Waxoyl the inner lip where those plastic clips sit before installing back.
j3nks79 said:
Yes, I have these with me:
Bilt Hamber Hydrate-80 and Tetroseal underbody sealant.
The BH will be used to apply to a few spot welds that have a dusting of rust, formed underneath the exposed primer layer on the 'middle' arch.
And the Tetroseal is a thick waxoil type product that I will brush onto the new, painted arch where the plastic clips join, and water collects.
chanlon1 said:
Yeah fraid so, there's 2 vertical screws along the join between the bumper and quarter.
You may be able to squeeze a long extension in there but I really wouldn't bother, they're in there tight and need a proper crank to loosen.
Removing the bumper was really easy. Screws along the bottom and 3 push pin thingies in each arch liner.
I prepared and treated the middle arch with the Hydrate-80 this evening.
Will apply the underbody sealant to the new arch later and install the plastic clips.
The new clips and nuts should arrive in the post tmrw.
Then it's the fun part, reassembly.
The new bolts and clips arrived so I was able to re-assemble the car today.
The colour match is absolutely bang on and everything went back together perfectly.
A load of nuts, clips and bolts:
Nearly there:
As the lower sill cover was off, why not get the front arch out to see if there's any corrosion hiding?
A few hours later:
Mega extension to get to the 2 bolts near the door and provide space to give it some welly to crack the screw:
There was, only a small amount at the top of the arch lip, on the inside. Nothing going through to the outside.
I've brushed it all back, treated with BH Hydrate-80, primed, coloured, clear coated and then Tetroseal'd (underbody sealant) It should hold it back for a while.
If it does present itself down the line, I have no worries swapping the arches as I now know what to do.
I was really surprised how well the underside has survived. The sill join is in great shape, just a little scabby surface rust that I've brushed back and treated, then undersealed. I was expecting much worse at the front and rear ends of the sill, it's in great condition.
The colour match is absolutely bang on and everything went back together perfectly.
A load of nuts, clips and bolts:
Nearly there:
As the lower sill cover was off, why not get the front arch out to see if there's any corrosion hiding?
A few hours later:
Mega extension to get to the 2 bolts near the door and provide space to give it some welly to crack the screw:
There was, only a small amount at the top of the arch lip, on the inside. Nothing going through to the outside.
I've brushed it all back, treated with BH Hydrate-80, primed, coloured, clear coated and then Tetroseal'd (underbody sealant) It should hold it back for a while.
If it does present itself down the line, I have no worries swapping the arches as I now know what to do.
I was really surprised how well the underside has survived. The sill join is in great shape, just a little scabby surface rust that I've brushed back and treated, then undersealed. I was expecting much worse at the front and rear ends of the sill, it's in great condition.
I took the day off work today so cracked on with the last remaining parts to underseal, then re-assembly.
Finished!:
I put the fog lights back in... I prefer:
I'm dead chuffed with myself, the drivers side should now have many years of rust free miles.
When I'm feeling keen, I'll treat the passenger side to the same treatment.
The eagle eyed among you will notice what little modification is next.
Finished!:
I put the fog lights back in... I prefer:
I'm dead chuffed with myself, the drivers side should now have many years of rust free miles.
When I'm feeling keen, I'll treat the passenger side to the same treatment.
The eagle eyed among you will notice what little modification is next.
Attleborough, Norfolk
Hopefully it's losing the American-style reflectors on the front bumper corners. Bit of filler and a splash of paint and you'll look all clean and tidy, pre-facelift style. 8)Meds said:The eagle eyed among you will notice what little modification is next.
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