Lightweight flywheel and clutch - any real world experience?

[Worcester_spoon]

As the title suggests, anyone have any real world experience on one of these in an 3.0 e85?

I have one ready to fit, but am unsure about actually fitting it. Was planning on doing some track stuff, but that’s looking increasingly unlikely for a while, so will be more a DD for the foreseeable.

I get all the arguments for and against using a lightweight flywheel for a DD (tricky to drive stop/start, fuel economy etc), but wonder if anyone actually has any first hand experience they’d be happy to share?

Stu

 

[Z4supercharged]

I have 5.5kg flywheel and m5 240mm clutch. Sachs performance pressure plate. But car is still garage and have to wait about month when snow are melt away. Hopefully.

Then i can give some user reference, is it good or really crap

 

[PDJ]

Mine has a Lighter flywheel and a sintered plate clutch
Z4M

Will write more when I have time

 

[Worcester_spoon]

Mine has a Lighter flywheel and a sintered plate clutch
Z4M

Will write more when I have time

Fab, thank you.

 

[PDJ]

Right as promised

I changed the clutch and flywheel as preventative maintenance at around 90K miles

I drove the car during the summer and did the work over the winter as the car was off the road and in my garage in Cleethorpes (now sold and waiting for my new build house to be finish in Manchester with a garage)

So after finishing driving a standard set up there was a 6 month gap so not like a back to back experience

The work if you are doing it yourself is not hard just remember to remove the starter motor bolts as well

So back to driving
Standard set up just a bit heavy on the clutch as they all are travel from the clutch starting to bite to fully engaged was probably 25/30mm of pedal travel (not an exact science) this gives you an almost comfortable to use clutch in slow moving town traffic or crawling in the M6 car park through the road works

Now the difference with the lighter weight flywheel and the sintered clutch plate I don't have the details to hand, when driving or moving off the clutch biting point is night and day away from the standard position, this could be changed with a different size master cylinder if I could be bothered to do the maths and I could not adapt to the new position. So when I drove it the clutch biting point is right at the top of the pedal travel and the clutch is very on or off as the travel of the bit between the biting point and it fully engaged is around 10mm or less

Gear changes are fine engine spin up is fine down changes are fine just the position of the clutch to get used to

When it went for an MOT I did say the the man watch the clutch he stalled it 6 times before getting it in the brake tester, he later asked me to move it it it was not for him.

If you are near Manchester in the spring summer you can pop over and feel the weight and position for yourself

 

[Vanne]

another upside (or downside, depending what you like), it'll sound like a dry clutch old skool Duke when idling/neutral.

also much much easier to rev match when heel toe-ing.

 

[PDJ]

Forgot the added noise when idling but that is forgotten once under way

 

[Z4supercharged]

I have 5.5kg flywheel and m5 240mm clutch. Sachs performance pressure plate. But car is still garage and have to wait about month when snow are melt away. Hopefully.



Then i can give some user reference, is it good or really crap

I say this set is quite good combo, littlebit harder clucth pedal but almost like oem clutch. Only annoying thing is that idling sound, but if change cluch plate with spring remove that sound?