LED Bulbs Rear Lights

[HU51A_FU]

Hi Guys

Can anyone tell me if you can obtain LED replacement bulbs for the brake and indicators?

I did order some however when they came they didn't fit due to how big the base of the bulb was....

 

[Haro]

bau15s/PY21 is what you want, but change them all as led light faster than halogen and look odd mixed and matched especially with indicators. I had no luck with the brake/tail lights as they were not bright enough, so changed everything bar those.

 

[Silverstar]

bau15s/PY21 is what you want, but change them all as led light faster than halogen and look odd mixed and matched especially with indicators. I had no luck with the brake/tail lights as they were not bright enough, so changed everything bar those.

If they are flashing faster it means the car is not detecting a lightbulb (due to the low power consumption of LEDS). This means you either need Canbus LEDS or if you have Canbus LEDS and still have the problem then you need to add load resistors. The fast flashing is the same as if one bulb blows and the rest flash faster to give you an indication of bulb failure.

 

[Haro]

bau15s/PY21 is what you want, but change them all as led light faster than halogen and look odd mixed and matched especially with indicators. I had no luck with the brake/tail lights as they were not bright enough, so changed everything bar those.

If they are flashing faster it means the car is not detecting a lightbulb (due to the low power consumption of LEDS). This means you either need Canbus LEDS or if you have Canbus LEDS and still have the problem then you need to add load resistors. The fast flashing is the same as if one bulb blows and the rest flash faster to give you an indication of bulb failure.

LED bulbs are instant, halogen heats up that's why, nothing to with bulb out. Your led brake light strip on the boot has a delay to compensate for the halogen brake light bulbs, you can adapt it in ncs. The indicators don't flash faster, they simply illuminate fractionally quicker, hence looking out of sequence.

 

[Silverstar]

bau15s/PY21 is what you want, but change them all as led light faster than halogen and look odd mixed and matched especially with indicators. I had no luck with the brake/tail lights as they were not bright enough, so changed everything bar those.

If they are flashing faster it means the car is not detecting a lightbulb (due to the low power consumption of LEDS). This means you either need Canbus LEDS or if you have Canbus LEDS and still have the problem then you need to add load resistors. The fast flashing is the same as if one bulb blows and the rest flash faster to give you an indication of bulb failure.

LED bulbs are instant, halogen heats up that's why, nothing to with bulb out. Your led brake light strip on the boot has a delay to compensate for the halogen brake light bulbs, you can adapt it in ncs. The indicators don't flash faster, they simply illuminate fractionally quicker, hence looking out of sequence.

I think I got my wires crossed, I thought you meant they are flashing rapidly as opposed to how quick they turn on which of course you are correct and if you are going to change the indicator bulbs you should change them all. Some cars make the LED flash rapidly as if the bulb has failed in which case what I mentioned above applies.

 

[Scooba_Steve]

Get the appropriate fitting OSRAM LEDriving or Philips bulb replacements and code out the bulb checks using NCS Expert/Carly etc.

Don't buy CANBUS, all they have is a load resistor inbuilt which will eventually kill them. I've used Philips/Osram for various bulbs and some are now 5/6 years old and still going strong.

Can anyone tell me if you can obtain LED replacement bulbs for the brake and indicators?

Assuming you have facelift then P21W in red and PW21Y in amber. Match the LED to the lens colour (e.g. red LED in a red lens rather than a white LED).

https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/581-osram-long-life-led-retrofit-amber-12v-py21w-bayonet-bulb.html
https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/382-osram-long-life-led-retrofit-red-12v-p21w-bayonet-bulb.html

Buy cheap, buy twice.

 

[HU51A_FU]

Get the appropriate fitting OSRAM LEDriving or Philips bulb replacements and code out the bulb checks using NCS Expert/Carly etc.

Don't buy CANBUS, all they have is a load resistor inbuilt which will eventually kill them. I've used Philips/Osram for various bulbs and some are now 5/6 years old and still going strong.

Can anyone tell me if you can obtain LED replacement bulbs for the brake and indicators?

Assuming you have facelift then P21W in red and PW21Y in amber. Match the LED to the lens colour (e.g. red LED in a red lens rather than a white LED).

https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/581-osram-long-life-led-retrofit-amber-12v-py21w-bayonet-bulb.html
https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/382-osram-long-life-led-retrofit-red-12v-p21w-bayonet-bulb.html

Buy cheap, buy twice.

Super thanks steve, I'm.on the list so when these come back in stock for both links I will buy.

I'm all for expensive LED bulbs as they are far better than the eBay jobbys. My Mrs has LED brake light/indicators/reverse in her 2016 polo and they haven't stepped out of line once and they are far better than halogens.

See here for a demo on her polo, taken 3 years ago.

https://youtu.be/uTuEawpeUZI

 

[Scooba_Steve]

Super thanks steve, I'm.on the list so when these come back in stock for both links I will buy.

No worries, you just need to code out the checks, so have a look into the methods for that or maybe find someone local who can do it.

You could also look at Philips. Either brand have been perfect for me, just like your previous experience.

It's also possible to get LEDs for the reversing lights, while they are better the output is still pretty poor due to the height and angle. I wouldn't bother with the fogs as one is only used for BFD and the other... well only should be in fog, which is minimal benefit.
You probably won't find any decent brand for the front indicators (2 per side), nor will proper W5W LEDs work in the sides. If you have halogen headlights W5W are fine in the front.

The OE LED number plate lights (1er?) are a much better upgrade and more subtle than ebay jobbies, also got mine 6 or so years ago, need new connectors but Soper sent all the correct parts.

As you show in the video it does make a big difference.

 

[Haro]

Super thanks steve, I'm.on the list so when these come back in stock for both links I will buy.

No worries, you just need to code out the checks, so have a look into the methods for that or maybe find someone local who can do it.

You could also look at Philips. Either brand have been perfect for me, just like your previous experience.

It's also possible to get LEDs for the reversing lights, while they are better the output is still pretty poor due to the height and angle. I wouldn't bother with the fogs as one is only used for BFD and the other... well only should be in fog, which is minimal benefit.
You probably won't find any decent brand for the front indicators (2 per side), nor will proper W5W LEDs work in the sides. If you have halogen headlights W5W are fine in the front.

The OE LED number plate lights (1er?) are a much better upgrade and more subtle than ebay jobbies, also got mine 6 or so years ago, need new connectors but Soper sent all the correct parts.

As you show in the video it does make a big difference.

Really? Sides, w5w look far better led and will look out of sync if you don't. Fronts again look miles better led if you change the rest. Reverse and fog, again easily changed, but you will never get the output of a halogen so it is cosmetic but with right led you can get close. Your Philips maybe the most over priced but they are not the best, unless you buy into heat resistance or plastic reflectors as a buying point.... Buy led bulbs that give the best light output directly, leds do not reflect light in the way halogen bulbs do no matter what or how many they use or how much they cost. If it's a rear, buy cree type, i.e. big led in the middle as that's where you want the light, the multiple smaller type leds will never reflect strongly enough and are junk, they are the ones I would agree best to avoid. If it's a w5w indicator then side spread is more important, so again avoid the ones that look like they are glued together and get proper plastic cased ones, but either way don't mix and match front, rear and sides unless you want wonky indicators. I've playing around with leds for 12 odd years and had mine in the Z4 for over 4 years and I guarantee they will be still be there 4 years from now, if the car is. There ain't much science in an led and resistors dont burn them out, simply because the resistor is resisting the current going to the led, not from it.

 

[Haro]

Super thanks steve, I'm.on the list so when these come back in stock for both links I will buy.

No worries, you just need to code out the checks, so have a look into the methods for that or maybe find someone local who can do it.

You could also look at Philips. Either brand have been perfect for me, just like your previous experience.

It's also possible to get LEDs for the reversing lights, while they are better the output is still pretty poor due to the height and angle. I wouldn't bother with the fogs as one is only used for BFD and the other... well only should be in fog, which is minimal benefit.
You probably won't find any decent brand for the front indicators (2 per side), nor will proper W5W LEDs work in the sides. If you have halogen headlights W5W are fine in the front.

The OE LED number plate lights (1er?) are a much better upgrade and more subtle than ebay jobbies, also got mine 6 or so years ago, need new connectors but Soper sent all the correct parts.

As you show in the video it does make a big difference.

Really? Sides, w5w look far better led and will look out of sync if you don't. Fronts again look miles better led if you change the rest. Reverse and fog, again easily changed, but you will never get the output of a halogen so it is cosmetic but with right led you can get close. Buy led bulbs that give the best light output directly, leds do not reflect light in the way halogen bulbs do no matter what or how many they use or how much they cost. If it's a rear, buy cree type, i.e. big led in the middle as that's where you want the light, the multiple smaller type leds will never reflect strongly enough and are junk, they are the ones I would agree best to avoid. If it's a w5w indicator then side spread is more important, so again avoid the ones that look like they are glued together and get proper plastic cased ones, but either way don't mix and match front, rear and sides unless you want wonky indicators. I've been playing around with leds for 12 odd years and had mine in the Z4 for over 4 years and I guarantee they will be still be there 4 years from now, if the car is. There ain't much science in an led and resistors dont burn them out, simply because the resistor is resisting the current going to the led, not from it.

 

[HU51A_FU]

Super thanks steve, I'm.on the list so when these come back in stock for both links I will buy.

No worries, you just need to code out the checks, so have a look into the methods for that or maybe find someone local who can do it.

You could also look at Philips. Either brand have been perfect for me, just like your previous experience.

It's also possible to get LEDs for the reversing lights, while they are better the output is still pretty poor due to the height and angle. I wouldn't bother with the fogs as one is only used for BFD and the other... well only should be in fog, which is minimal benefit.
You probably won't find any decent brand for the front indicators (2 per side), nor will proper W5W LEDs work in the sides. If you have halogen headlights W5W are fine in the front.

The OE LED number plate lights (1er?) are a much better upgrade and more subtle than ebay jobbies, also got mine 6 or so years ago, need new connectors but Soper sent all the correct parts.

As you show in the video it does make a big difference.

I've got Carly BMW and have the bulb checks off at the moment so I assume that's how it should be to then run LEDS.

I have 501 Amber LEDs to go in the side lights at the front to match my signal DRLS I currently run.

I also purchased LEDs can bus error ones from a site and they are super and haven't flagged any bulbs errors as shown here.

 

[Scooba_Steve]

There ain't much science in an led and resistors dont burn them out, simply because the resistor is resisting the current going to the led, not from it.

"CANBUS" LEDs will use a load resistor to mimic the resistance of a standard bulb and prevent the bulb checks. For a W5W LED that's at least 4W in a very small package with no cooling.

I also purchased LEDs can bus error ones from a site and they are super and haven't flagged any bulbs errors as shown here.

Depending on the package, for the reasons above, they may well not last.
For the number plate lights the bulb checks are off by default, if those were what you meant.

For reverse I tried the big CREE LEDs with lenses. Still rubbish despite the light output of a small sun, because the beam is not angled down far enough.