I'm still learning about all the things that can be done to modify a Z4M and the suspension alone seems to have lots of options. I saw that Simon 3.2M is selling a couple of Z4Ms with KWv3 coilovers. From what I can see they are extremely adjustable. Could anyone offer any opinions on how they feel compared with the stock suspension setup? Are they always firmer than stock or is it possible to adjust them to provide the same ride feel as the stock suspension?
KWv3 impressions?
- Thread starter Gebbly
- Start date
Gebbly said:
Not sure I agree on “extremely adjustable”; there are many coilovers out there that offer compression and rebound. That said, I think they’re fine coilovers - more street oriented that’s capable of track days but not the best performing for the price. My only knock on them is the beehive spring which takes up tire clearance. So running a wider setup in front can be more difficult and may require spacers, which in turn will require more camber.
I have KW Clubsports which are closely related to the V3s, but track focused. They’ve transformed the handling and turned it into an extremely capable track car, but at the cost of a harsh ride on poorly made surfaces.
In just over ten years of use, I’ve had one leaking damper and one broken rear spring. I’ve also lost most of my teeth and my spine has collapsed.
In just over ten years of use, I’ve had one leaking damper and one broken rear spring. I’ve also lost most of my teeth and my spine has collapsed.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm looking for a Z4M as a second car for driving holidays and fun on the B roads. I dont plan on tracking the car so I would prefer something comfortable for several hours driving. Do you reckon the KWv3 suspension can be adjusted to ease the ride maybe to stock levels and let me keep my fillings?
It can be adjusted to be softer than I run mine, but I don’t know if it would ever be considered compliant. The best option would be to test drive the car you’re interested in and ask the driver how it’s set up. Then reduce the bump and rebound and try it again (just don’t run the dampers on the maximum softness or hardness settings).Gebbly said:
The stock springs and dampers were poorly matched to the car so it will certainly be an improvement, but the most important consideration has to be whether you trust your dentist’s handiwork.
Ed Doe said:
Unfortunately, there’s no option to service from them here. I had to buy a pair or rear dampers from Germany and then FedEx them to Aus. The new springs I carried in my suitcase.
As for teeth and spines…from time to time, I might have ready access to some spare parts that aren’t needed anymore, but don’t tell anyone
:rofl:BMWZ4MC said:Ed Doe said:
Unfortunately, there’s no option to service from them here. I had to buy a pair or rear dampers from Germany and then FedEx them to Aus. The new springs I carried in my suitcase.
As for teeth and spines…from time to time, I might have ready access to some spare parts that aren’t needed anymore, but don’t tell anyone
Just wondering - My Intrax are only a few k old, but been on for I think 4 years now - they are supposedly due a rebuild every 2 years or so but I don't really see the point given the mileage!
My damper started to leak after 40k miles and my spring failed after almost 50k miles, so I wouldn’t worry about yours after a just a few thousand.
KW offer no warranty on their “track only” products, so I lost nothing by not servicing / rebuilding mine. I suppose Intrax might limit warranty claims if you don’t follow their servicing schedule.
KW offer no warranty on their “track only” products, so I lost nothing by not servicing / rebuilding mine. I suppose Intrax might limit warranty claims if you don’t follow their servicing schedule.
Based on what everybody says about the Clubsports, the V3s are a lot more comfortable. Conversely, some find the V3 a bit soft for regular track use.
I've done 25k on mine, sometimes in big, multi-day chunks on UK roads, without dental insurance. They are still very "busy" at low speeds though, even at their softest settings. If the kind of ride comfort you crave is the kind that will keep more delicate family/friends happy in the passenger seat while pootling around a potholed town centre, then you are probably better off with the stock suspension.
Once you get a move on they are great, especially if you get the rear geometry sorted as well (less toe in + RTA bush limiters). Basically, the "secondary" ride is probably a bit worse than stock, but the "primary" ride is much, much better.
I've done 25k on mine, sometimes in big, multi-day chunks on UK roads, without dental insurance. They are still very "busy" at low speeds though, even at their softest settings. If the kind of ride comfort you crave is the kind that will keep more delicate family/friends happy in the passenger seat while pootling around a potholed town centre, then you are probably better off with the stock suspension.
Once you get a move on they are great, especially if you get the rear geometry sorted as well (less toe in + RTA bush limiters). Basically, the "secondary" ride is probably a bit worse than stock, but the "primary" ride is much, much better.
The stock suspension gives a very crashy ride through the rear axle; a vague, floaty front end at high speed; and a tendency to understeer. I’m sure the V3 setup will correct all of those.
Interesting to hear about your experience Mr PT, especially with long term and mixed use. I agree, RTAB limiters are essential for all except pootling around. Toe in at the rear is useful for straight line stability and slower turn in with a road-biased car (although I prefer a more lively rear
)
Mine has H&R ARBs front and rear, KW front camber plates (and an OEM strut brace whatever that’s worth), Rogue Engineering rear top mounts, Turner RTAB limiters and Vibra-Technics competition engine mounts. All up, it’s very stiff and uncompromising on the road and tends to skip over imperfections (which is not ideal when loaded up in a corner). It’s probably slower now along country lanes than it was with OEM dampers, Eibach springs and RTAB limiters. However, my primary purpose was to make it a faster track car.
Gebbly, I would certainly test drive Simon’s car with V3s, as Mr PT’s experience sounds like a good improvement over the OEM setup.
MrPT said:
Interesting to hear about your experience Mr PT, especially with long term and mixed use. I agree, RTAB limiters are essential for all except pootling around. Toe in at the rear is useful for straight line stability and slower turn in with a road-biased car (although I prefer a more lively rear
)Mine has H&R ARBs front and rear, KW front camber plates (and an OEM strut brace whatever that’s worth), Rogue Engineering rear top mounts, Turner RTAB limiters and Vibra-Technics competition engine mounts. All up, it’s very stiff and uncompromising on the road and tends to skip over imperfections (which is not ideal when loaded up in a corner). It’s probably slower now along country lanes than it was with OEM dampers, Eibach springs and RTAB limiters. However, my primary purpose was to make it a faster track car.
Gebbly, I would certainly test drive Simon’s car with V3s, as Mr PT’s experience sounds like a good improvement over the OEM setup.
plenty said:
Ive just fitted their RM series with the new revised spring rate as mention above 6 KG front and 8 KG rear .
At first i was a little worried that they would be to soft but having just a 2200 miles on a Euro trip i was mightily impressed.
I have mine set up 11 clicks from soft on the rear and 8 from soft on the front.
So much more compliant than OEM obviously the settings for track would be to soft but for fast road use i found them really good especially for their price point.
FWIW - I went through the whole KW3 vs Clubsport argument in my head and ended up going for Intrax instead. 
No issues after several years installed both on road and track (but in fairness pretty low mileage) - they have some internal voodoo that mean they work on both pretty well - the ride quality is impressive on the road and resistance to pitch and roll on track also really excellent - they are pricey, but worth every ££ in my view.
No issues after several years installed both on road and track (but in fairness pretty low mileage) - they have some internal voodoo that mean they work on both pretty well - the ride quality is impressive on the road and resistance to pitch and roll on track also really excellent - they are pricey, but worth every ££ in my view.