just picked up a new camera!!

ian post a pic of her if you can please buddy!!!
will grab you some nice pics asap and email them over to you :-)
 
cheers i not on hols for a few weeks yet .hopefully see you down the track. the car might be dam right dangerous no its a monster.hang on in there you will get down sometimes but will have the ggod times and thats what you will remember .i have had 4 youngsters to bring up not easy at all .but i will say its all worth it when you see the end result how they grow up and make something of themselves in this day and age with whats going on my youngest has 2 of his own now and oldest has 1 so i am well and truely a grandad god thats old.cheers ian
 
Stu how about giving me some hints to get some great static shots......??? if you could give me some idea of what setting to use to get the best in terms of clarity id appreciate it... one thin i did notice was the black top seems to set the flash off even in sunlight.... it was only when i stepped back this didnt happen. So pleased with the camera!!
 
By clarity you mean the depth of field. The larger your aperture (F1.4, 2, 2.8, 3.5 ect) the smaller the depth of field. So the focal point will be small along one plane. Where as a smaller aperture (F8, 10, 16) the more will be in focus. Worth giving hyper focal distance a google and working out how it works to get the maximum depth of field.

Depends what you want this was shot at F1.8 which gives a very small depth of field (shallow depth of field)

5571877822_4ec9f2727e_b.jpg
Porsche 911 Carrera S badge by tom_scott88, on Flickr

This was shot at F4 shallow but gets most of the car in focus but leaves the background slightly blurred removing distraction.

6969458672_96e9bd512d_b.jpg
BMW Z4M Coupe rear by tom_scott88, on Flickr

This was shot at F10 Larger depth of field, to get the rest of the landscape.

5571274759_1b40a84f13_b.jpg
M3 by tom_scott88, on Flickr

Most modern lenses are sharpest around F8-12 with 10 or 11 being the sweet spot. You will find that F16 is not as sharp as F10 although will give a larger DOF.

I use M manual because I find it easier. But use AV a lot there are generally about 12-15 aperture values and over 50 shutter speed values per lens, so a ratio of around 1:3 your better off choosing the aperture value to get the effect you want and let the camera determine the shutter speed value then the exposure will be fairly correct. If it is not correct then use the exposure compensation bar in camera to increase of decrease the exposure by up to 2 stops.

Depth of field varies with abnormalities, focal length, forground and background distaces. For instance if you shot a car next to a close wall at a large aperture like F4 the wall would still appear sharp. If you shot a car 20ft from a wall at F4 in the same position it would appear blurred.

This image is a good example of a plane of focus and the shift due to movement.

6709183913_0f8d5e999a_b.jpg
BMW Z4M Coupe by tom_scott88, on Flickr

The closer the elements to the car like the posts on the left the more the blur they get because of the movement of the camera but if you view the far right the movement is much less because it is less effected by the angle of the lens and the way it was moved on the rig.

Also get down to eye level if you shoot a car downward and at a angle away from 90 deg it will cause distortion. When im shooting cars I usually lie down or im down on one knee. Also different lenses give different effects being close with a wide angle lens will make the background appear further away. Using a telephoto lens from a distance will compress the perspective and make the background appear closer to the subject.

Theres a fair amount of info in there and a lot fairly confusing but once you get your head around it then it gets easier best thing to do is to go out and shoot loads, or look at images and recreate them, then compare to figure out where they did things differently.

Chasing light is another critical thing, without light there is no photography, understanding how it falls creating shadows at different times of the day and how to create a look just by using natural light is complicated. But the most important factor in photography. Photoshop makes things easier but the less time spent at the machine means more money is made. I sue a lot of natural and unatural light to get perfect exposures but it has come with 5 years practise.
 
^^ What Tom said! :lol:

I'd still suggest you get to grips with Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO and the relationship between the 3 before you get into the weeds of metering etc. To Tom's comments about depth of field, try that exercise I suggested earlier in the thread. It will demonstrate exactly what Tom showed you in his different (and excellent) pics above.
 
tomscott said:
By clarity you mean the depth of field. The larger your aperture (F1.4, 2, 2.8, 3.5 ect) the smaller the depth of field. So the focal point will be small along one plane. Where as a smaller aperture (F8, 10, 16) the more will be in focus. Worth giving hyper focal distance a google and working out how it works to get the maximum depth of field.

Depends what you want this was shot at F1.8 which gives a very small depth of field (shallow depth of field)

5571877822_4ec9f2727e_b.jpg
Porsche 911 Carrera S badge by tom_scott88, on Flickr

This was shot at F4 shallow but gets most of the car in focus but leaves the background slightly blurred removing distraction.

6969458672_96e9bd512d_b.jpg
BMW Z4M Coupe rear by tom_scott88, on Flickr

This was shot at F10 Larger depth of field, to get the rest of the landscape.

5571274759_1b40a84f13_b.jpg
M3 by tom_scott88, on Flickr

Most modern lenses are sharpest around F8-12 with 10 or 11 being the sweet spot. You will find that F16 is not as sharp as F10 although will give a larger DOF.

I use M manual because I find it easier. But use AV a lot there are generally about 12-15 aperture values and over 50 shutter speed values per lens, so a ratio of around 1:3 your better off choosing the aperture value to get the effect you want and let the camera determine the shutter speed value then the exposure will be fairly correct. If it is not correct then use the exposure compensation bar in camera to increase of decrease the exposure by up to 2 stops.

Depth of field varies with abnormalities, focal length, forground and background distaces. For instance if you shot a car next to a close wall at a large aperture like F4 the wall would still appear sharp. If you shot a car 20ft from a wall at F4 in the same position it would appear blurred.

This image is a good example of a plane of focus and the shift due to movement.

6709183913_0f8d5e999a_b.jpg
BMW Z4M Coupe by tom_scott88, on Flickr

The closer the elements to the car like the posts on the left the more the blur they get because of the movement of the camera but if you view the far right the movement is much less because it is less effected by the angle of the lens and the way it was moved on the rig.

Also get down to eye level if you shoot a car downward and at a angle away from 90 deg it will cause distortion. When im shooting cars I usually lie down or im down on one knee. Also different lenses give different effects being close with a wide angle lens will make the background appear further away. Using a telephoto lens from a distance will compress the perspective and make the background appear closer to the subject.

Theres a fair amount of info in there and a lot fairly confusing but once you get your head around it then it gets easier best thing to do is to go out and shoot loads, or look at images and recreate them, then compare to figure out where they did things differently.

Chasing light is another critical thing, without light there is no photography, understanding how it falls creating shadows at different times of the day and how to create a look just by using natural light is complicated. But the most important factor in photography. Photoshop makes things easier but the less time spent at the machine means more money is made. I sue a lot of natural and unatural light to get perfect exposures but it has come with 5 years practise.


WOW. ok im starting to understand alittle, ok bck to the drawing board..... will have another go this weekend..... slowly starting to understand the different settings and the effect they have on the picture im taking, after reading what youve said here tom, i can see my first proper attempt is pretty s**t, will have another go with some much more aggressive settings.....
 
those pics are awsome you can take some of my motor anytime.hey beebud i expect the shots to that standard get practicing lol :thumbsup:
keep the good workn up with the little chaphe needs all the love you can give him . :thumbsup:
 
shortfuse 2 said:
those pics are awsome you can take some of my motor anytime.hey beebud i expect the shots to that standard get practicing lol :thumbsup:
keep the good workn up with the little chaphe needs all the love you can give him . :thumbsup:

next time i see you, ill take some of your car if you dont mind :-)

cheers buddy, your a true gent :-) really pleased to be part of the sdcc, its like another family in a wierd way.... same guys over all these years!! i honestly cant tel you how much of a smile it gave me to see and HEAR the ///M as you rolled in last week!!! LOL!!!


please repeat PLEASE add the bmw aero side skirts, they look best on your cars colour!!! look back at my pics on page 9 to see f the difference if you didnt notice :wink:
 
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