Just Broken Down- Help Please. will not start

G

g14ash

Member
Hi,

after a weekend of driving the car, it has been parked for an few hours this evening. WHen we came back to it it wouldn't start. I thought the battery did not have enough juice so we called the Adrian Flux Breakdown people and he put his big booster on it and nothing, no turning over, all electrics in the car work fine- radio/lights/seat heaters etc..

he dropped us back here with the car on the flat bed and i have since tried the spare key with no luck. There is no starter clicking and no turning over. When I turn the key the battery/oil and handbrake light all go red but i am not sure if they did this before.

I am not sure what to do next.?

Has anyone got any ideas?

Its a 2004 54 3.0i.

Thanks in advance.
 
Coil packs? Think this is what happened when mine went.

Cost £200-250 to fix from memory. One of the two things that go wrong with Z4's, springs being the other.

Hope you get it fixed soon

Richard
 
Any idea how i would tell for sure? would this show up in a diagnostic? And why would it just not turn over? sureley it should just misfire?
 
I had nothing either than lights on the dash too.

Had the car towed to the garage to fix it. A decent DIY mechanic could probably fix it but I left it to the experts.

From memory it is 03-04 cars that suffer from this and the replacement part will fix the issue.

Good luck.

Richard
 
Cheers for the help richard.

Do you or anyone else know if i call out a mobile mechanic to do a diag would this problem show up? Ive changed coil packs on previous cars before but didnt want waste the 60 quid to get someone out to not be able to diagnose it.

I dont understand why it would just sop running, surely if one coil had gone it would just run rough?
 
I'd start by checking out all the fuses and relays - sounds very electrical if the starter isn't even spinning.

Is it auto or manual? if auto do some cars not prevent the car from being started if its in gear or without the brake depressed.
 
In US spec ones, car won't turn over if auto transmission and not in Park or Neutral with foot on the brake. Don't know about Euro spec ones.

Seems strange the starter isn't turning over. Coils have nothing to do with that, and yes, if one is out, the car will run rough as sh!%. My 2003 325Ci lost a coil and it sounded like the engine was going to fall out, but she made it to the dealer for replacements.
 
If it was an immobiliser prob, would there be any way of knowing? ie.. a light on the dash???


Where would a fuse be located? I have traced the coil leads back to the white box in the top right hand corner of the engine bay?
 
Ive just been out to check the fuses behind the glove box, all seem fine.

I have discovered that when you turn the key to the 3rd position, the interior lights dim slightly as if its trying to do something? DOes this mean anything to anyone??


Thanks in advance

Ash
 
g14ash said:
Ive just been out to check the fuses behind the glove box, all seem fine.

I have discovered that when you turn the key to the 3rd position, the interior lights dim slightly as if its trying to do something? DOes this mean anything to anyone??


Thanks in advance

Ash
Click to expand...

Sounds more like a total battery failure to me. Try turning the ignition on until the dash lights come on then put the headlights on and run the fan and see if they can continue to shine bright for a minute.
 
Ive just been out and all power appears fine. Lights and full beam and fan on full and heated seats all for a couple of minutes and were fine. The lights dimming on click 3 realy is miniscule.

Would the starter motor just go? or is it more likely to be the coil packs?

there is detailed info on the poer supply here:

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/08%20E85%20Power%20Supply.pdf
 
Ive just been out and all power appears fine. Lights and full beam and fan on full and heated seats all for a couple of minutes and were fine. The lights dimming on click 3 realy is miniscule.

Would the starter motor just go? or is it more likely to be the coil packs?

there is detailed info on the poer supply here:

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/08%20E85%20Power%20Supply.pdf
 
Well that eliminates the battery then.

Given that Broaders suggests the same problem was displayed with the coil pack going then that's a route to be looking at. I can only speculate then that if it's the coil pack then the car has shut down to protect itslf, but that would be pure speculation on my part ??

If it were mine I'd be running a meter all over the place and eliminating things like power suppy to the starter, power to the starter solenoid, etc. to eliminate the obvious electrical issues.

Frankly though given the circumstances I think you need to get an auto electrician onto it.
 
I cetainly remember getting nothing at all other than dash lights. I still remember the helpless felling!

The auto elec. should be able to sort you out though.
 
I really dont know how a faulty coil pack would stop the starter-motor from spinning at all!? They should be completely redundant systems. Ive had mine running on less than 6 inder test scenarios..?

You say youve checked the fuses, however the starter motor usually doesnt use one of the internal usual 'blade' fuses as the cranking amperage is simply too high (<100A). Some have a separate 'heavy duty' external fuse panel however i do not know whether ours have this... CJ??

As Phil said - Id start by isolating the power connection from battery to starter, and earth to the starter itself. If the starter is getting 12-14v with the key turned, it sounds like a faulty motor. If not you need to look at the Ign switch or solenoid... A tiny dip in your lights seems indicative that the solenoid and ignition switch are working but never rule them out.

Remember, its nearly always something simple - keep us informed :)
 
EdButler said:
I really dont know how a faulty coil pack would stop the starter-motor from spinning at all!? They should be completely redundant systems. Ive had mine running on less than 6 inder test scenarios..?

You say youve checked the fuses, however the starter motor usually doesnt use one of the internal usual 'blade' fuses as the cranking amperage is simply too high (<100A). Some have a separate 'heavy duty' external fuse panel however i do not know whether ours have this... CJ??

As Phil said - Id start by isolating the power connection from battery to starter, and earth to the starter itself. If the starter is getting 12-14v with the key turned, it sounds like a faulty motor. If not you need to look at the Ign switch or solenoid... A tiny dip in your lights seems indicative that the solenoid and ignition switch are working but never rule them out.

Remember, its nearly always something simple - keep us informed :)
Click to expand...

Ed - I've never looked for a dedicated fuse for the starter motor (which I doubt there is), but there is a cut-off located in the battery box linked the the airbag system. That would cut off the circuit in the event of an accident. Easy enough to check it's closed.

There wil be a fuse for the solenoid somewhere.

As you note it will be something simple, but without op putting a meter on various points you can't treally diagnose this sort of thing over the internet.
 
It turned out to be the starter. Fired up when whacked with a hammer. So i bought a new one yesterday £56+vat and fitted it. Was supprised about how easy a job it was.

Pleased that it was fairly cheap. Was expecting ££££££'s when it broke down so pleasantly supprised.
 
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