MrPT said:
A full amp being drawn with the car off is a little worrying. How well does your roof work? If healthy it should take 9-10 seconds to drop. If there is damp around the motor, which is very common, it might explain some electrical gremlins (although I’ve not heard of it causing your symptoms before).
Remote roof activation needs a long and constant press of the button and it only works for lowering the roof, FYI.
Thanks MrPT for the tip

Roof sometimes needs a little help unlatching sometimes, but I think that's due to me operating it without the engine turned on. The car was kept in a garage and unused for a few months by previous owner, I've yet to check the drain holes as I haven't connected the battery back up again, but I think it isn't due to water on the softtop motor. Will definitely check it soon.
:sos: :sos: :sos: :sos: :sos: :sos: :sos:
Currently checking out the way the stereo was wired up and it's causing me a bit of confusion.
Car came with aftermarket AMP and headunit(HU), looks like the stereo harness at the HU is powered from the stock harness, but the speaker wires are chopped off and twist-tied to cables that run through the cabin into the boot where it connects up to another harness with chopped up wiring and twist-tied into some of those cables.
Is that the stock amp connector in the boot? This harness has connectors running to the speakers (I can only identify 6 pairs from the already cut cables) as well as connectors back to the headunit in the cabin (I haven't checked yet), correct?
I am following this guide for identifying the speaker cables:
http://www.modifiedlife.com/2003-bmw-z4-car-stereo-wiring-guide/
The way the amp was wired in, has me thinking it is only there to power one of the subwoofers behind the seats :thumbsdown:
Brown and Blue wires connected to the Left + and - on the amp, while Yellow and brown wires were connected to the R+ and R- on the Mono Bridge... ?