Hydraulic line help Ducklakeview

[Jas- USA]

DuckLakeview

A/k/A

Mike

1st, read your post on getting the top motor thru the trunk (your boot) & tried it myself. Although, it's a tight fit I was able to pull her out in about two hours. Here's my problem, one of the Hydraulic lines feel's like a dog chew toy and must have been getting chewed up by the top frame every time I used it for years. I'm guessing the stress of me pulling it out must have finished it off. In that, I can now feel wet oily liquated on the line and it smells oily.

The old motor is now in the trunk/boot.-

---I also read one of your posts where you said you can change Hydraulic lines from the trunk/boot.

Exactly how hard is it for me to change either the top (with the clip) or the lower with a screw hydraulic lines from the trunk/boot. I'm going to have to trace the Dog chew Toy line back and find which line it is. This is from the USA drivers side, your passengers side.

I read on another source that the lower line attachment screw can strip out....have you had any issues with this? Any tip's things to watch out for.....

Mike, I'm 64 years old, and based on your fees, I'd have you do this for me, in a heart beat if I could.....but it's that Ocean between us.

Thanks in advance


John

 

[enzed4]

John, if Mike can't help, I suggest you contact dc_wright on the bimmerfest forum - he has also done the relocation to the trunk, and is a very helpful/knowledgeable chap (like Mike ). He's also based in Orlando, Florida, your side of the Pond .
Best of luck with the messy hydraulic line problem....

 

[Ducklakeview]

John,

I've not had a problem with the lower screws holding the tiny plate, which in turn secures the hose end, just make sure you use a good quality hex socket. Access to (your) drivers side ones is easy through the boot, (your) passenger side top one also, but the lower one requires unbolting of the two large torx bolts just inside the door shut, one has a small round cover, the other is behind the small square vent. Remove these, and it's JUSt possible, if you are careful, to pull the corner up far enough to get access to it. I've done it a few times.

Mike

 

[Jas- USA]

1st, Ducklakeview

Thank you, for responding & your Info. I haven't gone near the passenger side and I'm hoping the only line chewed up was on the drivers (USA) side.

I have a new motor and was prepared to take the top off----then I did the red cable pull and turn.....and nothing happened(I actually did this about 20 times, and then, I finally realized that the emergency release system was also shot). Aren't you sort of happy BMW doesn't make parachutes or their back-ups. I really thought I was totally screwed until I found your posting here on going thru the trunk/Boot. Thank you and for saving me more than a few $$$.

After I trace the line ( I believe it's the bottom Line with the screw attachment) I'm going to order a new line (extra long) and copper washers from https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/. They actually sell parts, rebuild lifters and motors and also have instructions on moving the motor to the trunk/boot.

Again, thank you and I'll repost here in 2 or 3 weeks after I get the line

Enzed 4, thank you as well and for your information.


John

 

[Jas- USA]

Ducklakeview

I initially had a lot of problems attempting to remove the bottom screw on the (USA Drivers side) lifter. I could feel it, but when I attempted to put a torx into it, well I just lost where it was. (Plus add, I initially was using to big of a Torx). It was hit or miss doing this because of the heat and humidity here in Pennsylvania in the summer. (When I was working on it, my wife would tell my daughters "your dad's out in the garage in the trunk of his BMW again"). This went on for weeks, a day here or there, and after a half hour I would be soaked with sweat.

This went on until I happen to tell my daughter and her husband. My son in law said why don't you buy a endoscope and hook it to your phone. Well, I was shocked to learn ....these could be had for about $20.00 USD.

Well, today I got that little screw and plate off the lifter. It still took 2 hours and I was dripping with sweat....but, I got then off and release the line. The endoscope worked but, even with that there are depth perception issues when you look at the phone. Yet, I got then off.

I still can't believe how small the screw and plate are.

I'm going to a hardware store and purchase about 10 screws and will thread a very thin string thru the hole when I re-install. (the extra screws in case I drop one and the string to prevent me from losing it if it falls during the re-install).

I'm now going to order a new line, copper washers, and hydo-fluid.

Does this take four or six copper washers.

John

 

[Crazy Harry]

Hi John, you certainly sound resilient and I don't fancy working in those conditions; or even in the boot for that matter I got Mike to move mine as part of his record breaking Cambridge roof day.

The endoscope sounds interesting - are you able to post a link so we can have a look at it?

 

[Ducklakeview]

Ducklakeview

I initially had a lot of problems attempting to remove the bottom screw on the (USA Drivers side) lifter. I could feel it, but when I attempted to put a torx into it, well I just lost where it was. (Plus add, I initially was using to big of a Torx). It was hit or miss doing this because of the heat and humidity here in Pennsylvania in the summer. (When I was working on it, my wife would tell my daughters "your dad's out in the garage in the trunk of his BMW again"). This went on for weeks, a day here or there, and after a half hour I would be soaked with sweat.

This went on until I happen to tell my daughter and her husband. My son in law said why don't you buy a endoscope and hook it to your phone. Well, I was shocked to learn ....these could be had for about $20.00 USD.

Well, today I got that little screw and plate off the lifter. It still took 2 hours and I was dripping with sweat....but, I got then off and release the line. The endoscope worked but, even with that there are depth perception issues when you look at the phone. Yet, I got then off.

I still can't believe how small the screw and plate are.

I'm going to a hardware store and purchase about 10 screws and will thread a very thin string thru the hole when I re-install. (the extra screws in case I drop one and the string to prevent me from losing it if it falls during the re-install).

I'm now going to order a new line, copper washers, and hydo-fluid.

Does this take four or six copper washers.

John

John, you need six washers. The bolt is stainless, the plate isn't! So if you drop the bolt into the bowels, you can't retrieve it with a magnet, yup - Been there, done that... I now put a dab of fast setting glue on the driver/bolt head to stop it falling off, and a dab of loctite on the thread when re-inserting it, the hose will fit into the upper or lower hole (apparently a common problem of mine if you ask the wife!) But the lip on the fitting needs to fit flush with the body of the ram, otherwise the plate won't slide on. The hose goes into the upper hole, and the bolt into the more awkward lower one.

[ref]Crazy Harry[/ref] I have one of those, well a couple - like this; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5M-Waterproof-USB-Android-Endoscope-Borescope-6LED-Snake-Inspection-Camera-8mm-/361939371336?epid=26004344479&hash=item5445448548:g:KM4AAOSwol5Y2y4M

Can come in handy, especially as it connects to your phone, but can also be used with a laptop/PC.

Mike

 

[step_change]

I'm sure for a first class ticket to the US that Mike will come over and help you

It is amazing to watch Mike do this mod in about 30 minutes for the few quid he charges and the time and money it can save.
Mine has not missed a beat since he did it in April.

 

[Ducklakeview]

I'm sure for a first class ticket to the US that Mike will come over and help you

It is amazing to watch Mike do this mod in about 30 minutes for the few quid he charges and the time and money it can save.
Mine has not missed a beat since he did it in April.

My record for a straight relocate now stands at, from opening the boot to closing it... 17 mins

Mike

PS, I'm ok with Business Class

 

[Magicarcher]

I'm sure for a first class ticket to the US that Mike will come over and help you

It is amazing to watch Mike do this mod in about 30 minutes for the few quid he charges and the time and money it can save.
Mine has not missed a beat since he did it in April.

My record for a straight relocate now stands at, from opening the boot to closing it... 17 mins

Mike

PS, I'm ok with Business Class

Do you have any plans to do a group change at Zfest?

 

[Ducklakeview]

I'm sure for a first class ticket to the US that Mike will come over and help you

It is amazing to watch Mike do this mod in about 30 minutes for the few quid he charges and the time and money it can save.
Mine has not missed a beat since he did it in April.

My record for a straight relocate now stands at, from opening the boot to closing it... 17 mins

Mike

PS, I'm ok with Business Class

Do you have any plans to do a group change at Zfest?

Well I'm bringing my bag, so if anyone wants theirs relocating or repairing...

Mike

 

[Magicarcher]

Hi Mike, can you remind me how much it is to get it relocated. It is working fine so repair not needed.

 

[Jas- USA]

You folks in the UK are lucky to have ducklakeview, AKA, Mike. We have no one here in the USA, doing this. I've checked the Z4 forums here in the States and for the most part they are still pulling the tops. A few of these same folks will relocate the top motor after pulling the top, but a lot still don't and put the new motor back into the tops drain. There are simply just to many reason's to relocate the motor...to the trunk. Namely, common motor or pump failure, being able to refill the hydo fluid and....the emergency cable system is prone to failure. I had two choices, the friendly BMW dealer, where I would have received a biblical financial butt beating or give Ducklakeview thru the trunk/boot motor removal a shot. It worked. However, had I been in the UK I would have been in line to have Mike change out the motor when he held the Cambridge Roof day.

Crazy Harry The endoscope shown by Mike is just about the same one I got. The trick I learned (because you only can use your left hand) is some how fixing the scope on your target and then (most time it moved) getting the Torx into the screw....not ez. Yet, for me without the endoscope....impossible.

I expect to order the need parts on Friday and then install the new line within a week. After that I'll change out the motor with the new motor I already have.

John

 

[Jas- USA]

How are you guy's

Order and received need parts around mid August. Between hot humid weather and getting my son-in-law to help me (he held the endoscope from inside the car) it took until the past Sunday to restart this project.

I had fitted the little metal plate with tape (I cut and fitted the tape to fit it's small size and for the screw hole). I was able to fit the plate to the lifter twice. But, the first time it came off when I was making sure the plate hole and the screw hole were lined up. It fell off again basically doing the same thing. I changed screws (making sure it fit) from Torx to Philips head. However, the screw is so small and it was impossible to start threading without it just falling. Sooo, it was failure Sunday.

Ok here my plan (starting Wednesday) I'll be on my own with the endoscope. 1st, again do the tape on plate and attempt to fit it on the lifter. 2nd, the tape seems to only hold it temporarily so after taping it I'll wrap the lifter and metal plate with a wire plastic covered tie wrapper. Hopefully, this will hold it. As for the problems with the small screw. I'm going to super glue the screw to a Philips head screwdriver bit (they use these on drills) and using this bit/Philips head attempt to screw it to the lifter thru the plate.

If it doesn't work by Friday.....it's game. I'm going to use J.B. Weld Steel stik. This is the putty kind of J B Weld. I should be able to cover the lifter and plate which holds the lower hydo line into lifter. After this stuff hardens ...that line is attached and not going to move again.

Yea, I know, after J B Weld the lifter will have the hydo line attached forever. However, I started this back in June, I've given it my bests shot and it's time to get this top working again.

John

 

[Ducklakeview]

Post up if you need any advice John.

Mike

 

[Jas- USA]

Hey Mike

aka/Ducklakeview

Thanks, I know you, and the other folks on here would help, if you could. However, it's more my ability to execute, than the advise I've received. In that, I can touch the work area, but your blind half the time (even with the endoscope) and working weak hand.

My son-in-law was flabbergasted by the position I was in as well as the small work space I was attempting to access. I told him it worked and pointed to the old motor in my trunk and said if I didn't have a bad hydo line to begin with, the motor/roof would be working.

I know the J B Weld putty when worked into things should have no problem withstanding the P/S/I of the lines.

Yea, I'd rather do the screw into the plate.....I'm there'....but just can't get the screw started thru plate into the lifter.

John

 

[Jas- USA]

Perhaps I spoke to soon.

Went to the hardware store and read the data on the J B weld Steel stik. It hardness to a 900 P/S/I. Whereas, the mixer J B Weld has a much higher rating of 3,9 hundred and something P/S/I.

I'm kind of worried that the easy to apply Steel stik putty will not hold with the hydo force of the BMW line. However, the mix version, although super strong will be a nightmare to apply one handed.

Does anyone know if the J B Weld putty at 900 P/S/I will hold the hydo pressure?

 

[Ducklakeview]

NO, it will not. The JB weld itself may resist the pressure, BUT the bond between it and the line will not, it WILL just start peeing fluid out as soon as you use it, trust me. I'd not even attempt to repair one, just replace it. I now carry a full set of stainless braided replacements that have 100% stainless fittings on them.

Mike

 

[Jas- USA]

Hey Mike

Want to make sure we are on the same track. I've pulled the old line and attached a new line (bottom driver USA lifter) I can get the plate on but, have been unable to get the little screw started into the plate.

My current plan is if I can't get the screw in place on the little plate, use J b weld to cover the plate and the nearby lifter area. this would include the "U" area of the plate where the hose plugs into the lifter. Basically, because I can't get the screw in, use J B Weld to cover and "weld" the plate and lock it in place.

If this won't work. I'll be studying the z4 top pulling video's on youtube.

 

[Ducklakeview]

Ok, thought you meant you were repairing a hose. Anyway, it still won't work, as the hydraulic pressure will force the hose fitting, and hence the plate outwards. Have you removed the 10mm bolt from the aluminium "hoop" about 12" behind the ram? This WILL allow you to get the ram high enough to access the lower hose fixing, done it plenty of times myself.

Mike