RobbiZ4
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Z4 E89: Collection of the 7 typical age-related defects in the roof environment
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2092037#p2092037
Z4 G29 roof investigation:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2103928#p2103928
My "Y3 Roof Diagnostic System" (for all BMW convertible & roadster)
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=129048
Regarding "open/close the roof with a running engine":
From my point of view, for the 20-second roof process (20s x 20A [average over 20s] = 400As) no more power is drawn from the battery than with starting the engine itself (2s x 400A = 800As).
If that already damages the battery, what happens when the automatic start/stop system is active?
I think the often read engine-must-run recommendation is nonsensical!
But no harm. :thumbsup:
Trunk locking system, service mode ("flippers"):
The most important thing is, that you bring your trunk lid into the service mode before doing any work on the roof! Never ever touch the roof without bringing it into this mode!! And of course, it has to be switched BEFORE removing the battery out of the trunk. :roll:
Have a look at the video of @germinator (Juergen):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhD02MDAznE
Well, to make it clear:
Hint #1:
The so called "Service Mode" isn't a special function! If you press the two flippers on both sides of the locking system in the opened trunk lid manually (or with a srewdriver), it logically locks, but the lid will stay physically open.
In this mode, you can move the roof in any position for diagnostics and repair (D&R), but you are always able to lift the lid in case of any malfunction.
That is your life insurance for working on the roof.
But, if you touch the BMW badge in that D&R situation, it will unlock the flippers und you won't get it locked anymore until the roof is back in good working condition.
Hint #2:
Don't touch the BMW Badge anymore!
If you are sure the roof is back in perfect condition, you may unlock the lid pulling the badge. But never ever too early!
Hint #3:
If finished, pull the BMW badge to get back to normal behaviour.
But hey guys, if you are not able to open that center screw of the fuse box to get it slided out, please don't even think about touching anything in the roof or of it's components!!! :evil:
Roof Faults on E89:
The hydraulic hoses as well as the wires to the different sensors in the rear roof shell get weak over the years and finaly will break. Wires can be repaired for a while, but the hydraulic lines will break and can't be repaired.
The only spare part available is a single bundle of all cables and hydraulic lines in the roof, that has to be completely replaced.
Part No.: 54377311084
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/partsearch?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=&q=54377311084
https://www.leebmann24.de/satz-hydraulikleitung-mit-kabelbaum-z4-54377311084.html
Since all hydraulic cable harnesses have been in use for around 10++ years, the wear and tear is already very advanced.
Nobody can turn this back, not even the often mentioned WD40! Dont' use it anywhere in the roof!!
The best strategy to deal with this and avoid disruptions along the way is to get the roof dismantled in a timely manner (better today than tomorrow!), tape all hydraulic lines and replace the wires in the upper critical bend with highly flexible ones. This is the only possible precautionary measure.
If there is a malfunction, this repair becomes quite complicated because the trunk cannot be opened, the roof no longer moves and the windows cannot be operated. The warning bell while driving gets on your last nerve.
www. cabrionotdienst.de
View attachment 2
View attachment 1
My FAQ and recommendation list in the German ZRoadster.com forum:
https://www-zroadster-com.translate.goog/forum/threads/robbis-z4-e89-faq-und-empfehlungsliste-my-recommendations.133084/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp
Important:
There is some maintenance on the E89 retractable hardtop (roof) required.
1) Check the water level BELOW and the corrosion status of the bottom of the hydraulic pump once a year!
Or, if there is no garage for the car, after every heavy rain. There might be water in or below the pump's foam!
Place a plastic bag around the pump's foam to protect it from water. Not around the pump, but the foam! That should look like on the following picture:
View attachment 3
Not so pretty, but very effective! :tumbleweed:
2) Replace the 2 salmon relays (12631742690) next to the hydraulic pump with new ones twice a decade
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0402&q=12631742690
HowTo: https://www-zroadster-com.translate.goog/forum/threads/z4-e85-e89-z8-e52-1er-2er-3er-e46-e93-4er-f33-6er-e64-f12-8er-f91-g14-minir57-r59-4er-g23-ersetzt-die-dachrelais-alle-5-jahre-durch-neue.133521/post-3124720?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de
Background & installation instruction: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&u=https://www.zroadster.com/forum/threads/z4-e85-e89-z8-e52-1er-2er-3er-e93-4er-f33-6er-e64-f12-8er-f91-g14-minir57-ersetzt-die-dachrelais-alle-2-5-jahre-durch-neue.133521/
Don't care: about the "Axx" numbers on the new relays. This is a production/manufacturer and not an amperage info. It may differ from the old relays.
Technical background regarding melted hydraulic pumps:
https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/urgent-recommendation-to-replace-the-pink-hardtop-hydraulic-relays.3815/
3) Replace the 2 microswitch coupling lock (54377228585, 54377228586) with new ones every decade
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0413&q=54377228585
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0413&q=54377228586
HowTo: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1828044#p1828044
and
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=129556
Important: Always replace both microswitches, on the right as well as on the left!
In addition there is a nice video from @javis20:
https://youtu.be/qcwZC1uah_o?si=Idis1z4coQSmfH6u
Background infos regarding MS:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=95385
and
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1529701
4) Check the 2 hallsensors on the right hydraulic cylinder in the trunk for rust or cracks in the housing
More details & pictures:
English: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2035307#p2035307
Francais: http://www.bmwz3club.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1771516#p1771516
If there are any findings or doubts, then get it replaced with the cheaper E88 parts: 54347190735
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showparts?id=UM91-EUR-03_2008_E88_BMW_118d&diagId=54_0392#54347190735
How-to:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=145813
and
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2019185#p2019185
5) Think about a replacement of the hydraulic harness (54377311084) with a new one every decade
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0402&q=54377311084
HowTo: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=122363
With these simple (sik) steps you can avoid almost any disturbance with the retractable hardtop of our E89. :thumbsup:
In addition:
6) Check and/or replace the coolant reservoir cap with a new one every decade
Have a look at the following thread:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1947122#p1947122
7) Check your backlightclusters
Please have a look at the number of nuts on each backlight in the trunk. Replaced backlights have only 2 nuts instead of 3 of the initial ones. In that case, the 3rd hole in the body has to be sealed from the outside BEFORE mounting/replacing the backlight cluster! If not done, your trunk will transform to a swimming pool!
A round seal (07147162569 protection foil) for the 3rd drill hole is available from BMW.
And please mount the backlights in a correct manner: the gaskets have to be pulled very carefully on the rubber flaps into the body before you fasten the nuts.
8 ) Get the car's battery replaced each decade
These modern AGM batteries are often source of weird issues with a bunch of fault codes.
On BMW batteries you will find it's production date on the minus pole in the format YY/WW.
8) Another don't, but imporantant from my point of view:
Don't use any lubrication in the roof, it is not required.
To get a better understanding why not to lubricate, have a look at the bearing bushes:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1829498#p1829498
Before there are further regular inquiries: :rofl:
There is no practical way of checking the condition of the electrical and hydraulic lines on the E89 without dismantling the roof. It cannot be visually checked from the outside.
A useful tool for worklng in the trunk:
To get the black pins of the internal trims removed the following tool (nail iron) is recommended instead of fighting with a screwdriver or a small pair of pliers!
Fault codes assigned to the 2 hall sensors on the right hydraulic ram in the trunk:
View attachment 5
Emergency procedure to open the trunk lid - Pin 12:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1852241#p1852241
Numbering of all 12 hydraulic hoses in the E89 roof:
Just in case the numbers on the hydraulic hoses next to the hydraulic pump have been wiped off, have a look at the following thread:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2042803#p2042803
And please, once again and again and again, don't use WD40 anywhere in the roof's construction!
To check CC codes use one of the following pages:
http://mr-fix.info/bmw-cc-id-codes-fault-warning-messages/
https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/blog/bmw-cc-id-error-codes/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/4628359/
https://bimmerguide.de/check-control-meldungen-e-modelle-v1/
List of roof fault codes:
https://www.staiger-neuffen.de/cabrio-dach-notdienst-roof-emergency-service/
Update 03/2022:
There might happen a tricky fault on the boot lid: if the brake light gets activated, the trunk lid opens while driving.
Have a look at the following description:
[Deleted]https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1909115#p1909115
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1725032#p1725032
This blue plug of the trunk lid harness can be found on the right next to the backlight cluster.
Update 05/2022:
The product I use to maintain the rubber seals of the roof. It's silicon free.
View attachment 4
Update 03/2024 Shutdown the annoying bong's
Depending of the mounted hifi system fuse 15 or 69 has to be pulled. Only one of them is plugged, so it's easy going.
Update 09/2024 Struts / gas springs on the roof as well as on the trunk lid
Roof E89 (BMW 54377212634) Stabilus 0728pb 800N (special tool required)
Trunk lid E89 (BMW 51247191255) Stabilus 499514 570N
Each pair should be replaced by new ones each decade.
Update 12/2024 The magic of the mirror heating in our Z4 - and how to dominate it!
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2104636#p2104636
Z4 E89: Collection of the 7 typical age-related defects in the roof environment
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2092037#p2092037
Z4 G29 roof investigation:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2103928#p2103928
My "Y3 Roof Diagnostic System" (for all BMW convertible & roadster)
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=129048
Regarding "open/close the roof with a running engine":
From my point of view, for the 20-second roof process (20s x 20A [average over 20s] = 400As) no more power is drawn from the battery than with starting the engine itself (2s x 400A = 800As).
If that already damages the battery, what happens when the automatic start/stop system is active?
I think the often read engine-must-run recommendation is nonsensical!
But no harm. :thumbsup:
Trunk locking system, service mode ("flippers"):
The most important thing is, that you bring your trunk lid into the service mode before doing any work on the roof! Never ever touch the roof without bringing it into this mode!! And of course, it has to be switched BEFORE removing the battery out of the trunk. :roll:
Have a look at the video of @germinator (Juergen):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhD02MDAznE
Hedders;30988975 said:
Well, to make it clear:
Hint #1:
The so called "Service Mode" isn't a special function! If you press the two flippers on both sides of the locking system in the opened trunk lid manually (or with a srewdriver), it logically locks, but the lid will stay physically open.
In this mode, you can move the roof in any position for diagnostics and repair (D&R), but you are always able to lift the lid in case of any malfunction.
That is your life insurance for working on the roof.
But, if you touch the BMW badge in that D&R situation, it will unlock the flippers und you won't get it locked anymore until the roof is back in good working condition.
Hint #2:
Don't touch the BMW Badge anymore!
If you are sure the roof is back in perfect condition, you may unlock the lid pulling the badge. But never ever too early!
Hint #3:
If finished, pull the BMW badge to get back to normal behaviour.
But hey guys, if you are not able to open that center screw of the fuse box to get it slided out, please don't even think about touching anything in the roof or of it's components!!! :evil:
Roof Faults on E89:
The hydraulic hoses as well as the wires to the different sensors in the rear roof shell get weak over the years and finaly will break. Wires can be repaired for a while, but the hydraulic lines will break and can't be repaired.
The only spare part available is a single bundle of all cables and hydraulic lines in the roof, that has to be completely replaced.
Part No.: 54377311084
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/partsearch?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=&q=54377311084
https://www.leebmann24.de/satz-hydraulikleitung-mit-kabelbaum-z4-54377311084.html
Since all hydraulic cable harnesses have been in use for around 10++ years, the wear and tear is already very advanced.
Nobody can turn this back, not even the often mentioned WD40! Dont' use it anywhere in the roof!!
The best strategy to deal with this and avoid disruptions along the way is to get the roof dismantled in a timely manner (better today than tomorrow!), tape all hydraulic lines and replace the wires in the upper critical bend with highly flexible ones. This is the only possible precautionary measure.
If there is a malfunction, this repair becomes quite complicated because the trunk cannot be opened, the roof no longer moves and the windows cannot be operated. The warning bell while driving gets on your last nerve.
www. cabrionotdienst.de
View attachment 2
View attachment 1
My FAQ and recommendation list in the German ZRoadster.com forum:
https://www-zroadster-com.translate.goog/forum/threads/robbis-z4-e89-faq-und-empfehlungsliste-my-recommendations.133084/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp
Important:
There is some maintenance on the E89 retractable hardtop (roof) required.
1) Check the water level BELOW and the corrosion status of the bottom of the hydraulic pump once a year!
Or, if there is no garage for the car, after every heavy rain. There might be water in or below the pump's foam!
Place a plastic bag around the pump's foam to protect it from water. Not around the pump, but the foam! That should look like on the following picture:
View attachment 3
Not so pretty, but very effective! :tumbleweed:
2) Replace the 2 salmon relays (12631742690) next to the hydraulic pump with new ones twice a decade
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0402&q=12631742690
HowTo: https://www-zroadster-com.translate.goog/forum/threads/z4-e85-e89-z8-e52-1er-2er-3er-e46-e93-4er-f33-6er-e64-f12-8er-f91-g14-minir57-r59-4er-g23-ersetzt-die-dachrelais-alle-5-jahre-durch-neue.133521/post-3124720?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de
Background & installation instruction: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&u=https://www.zroadster.com/forum/threads/z4-e85-e89-z8-e52-1er-2er-3er-e93-4er-f33-6er-e64-f12-8er-f91-g14-minir57-ersetzt-die-dachrelais-alle-2-5-jahre-durch-neue.133521/
Don't care: about the "Axx" numbers on the new relays. This is a production/manufacturer and not an amperage info. It may differ from the old relays.
Technical background regarding melted hydraulic pumps:
https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/urgent-recommendation-to-replace-the-pink-hardtop-hydraulic-relays.3815/
3) Replace the 2 microswitch coupling lock (54377228585, 54377228586) with new ones every decade
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0413&q=54377228585
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0413&q=54377228586
HowTo: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1828044#p1828044
and
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=129556
Important: Always replace both microswitches, on the right as well as on the left!
In addition there is a nice video from @javis20:
https://youtu.be/qcwZC1uah_o?si=Idis1z4coQSmfH6u
Background infos regarding MS:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=95385
and
https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1529701
4) Check the 2 hallsensors on the right hydraulic cylinder in the trunk for rust or cracks in the housing
More details & pictures:
English: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2035307#p2035307
Francais: http://www.bmwz3club.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1771516#p1771516
If there are any findings or doubts, then get it replaced with the cheaper E88 parts: 54347190735
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showparts?id=UM91-EUR-03_2008_E88_BMW_118d&diagId=54_0392#54347190735
How-to:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=145813
and
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2019185#p2019185
5) Think about a replacement of the hydraulic harness (54377311084) with a new one every decade
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LM51-EUR-05-2011-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0402&q=54377311084
HowTo: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=122363
With these simple (sik) steps you can avoid almost any disturbance with the retractable hardtop of our E89. :thumbsup:
In addition:
6) Check and/or replace the coolant reservoir cap with a new one every decade
Have a look at the following thread:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1947122#p1947122
7) Check your backlightclusters
Please have a look at the number of nuts on each backlight in the trunk. Replaced backlights have only 2 nuts instead of 3 of the initial ones. In that case, the 3rd hole in the body has to be sealed from the outside BEFORE mounting/replacing the backlight cluster! If not done, your trunk will transform to a swimming pool!
A round seal (07147162569 protection foil) for the 3rd drill hole is available from BMW.
And please mount the backlights in a correct manner: the gaskets have to be pulled very carefully on the rubber flaps into the body before you fasten the nuts.
8 ) Get the car's battery replaced each decade
These modern AGM batteries are often source of weird issues with a bunch of fault codes.
On BMW batteries you will find it's production date on the minus pole in the format YY/WW.
8) Another don't, but imporantant from my point of view:
Don't use any lubrication in the roof, it is not required.
To get a better understanding why not to lubricate, have a look at the bearing bushes:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1829498#p1829498
Before there are further regular inquiries: :rofl:
There is no practical way of checking the condition of the electrical and hydraulic lines on the E89 without dismantling the roof. It cannot be visually checked from the outside.
A useful tool for worklng in the trunk:
To get the black pins of the internal trims removed the following tool (nail iron) is recommended instead of fighting with a screwdriver or a small pair of pliers!
Fault codes assigned to the 2 hall sensors on the right hydraulic ram in the trunk:
View attachment 5
Emergency procedure to open the trunk lid - Pin 12:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1852241#p1852241
Numbering of all 12 hydraulic hoses in the E89 roof:
Just in case the numbers on the hydraulic hoses next to the hydraulic pump have been wiped off, have a look at the following thread:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2042803#p2042803
And please, once again and again and again, don't use WD40 anywhere in the roof's construction!
To check CC codes use one of the following pages:
http://mr-fix.info/bmw-cc-id-codes-fault-warning-messages/
https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/blog/bmw-cc-id-error-codes/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/4628359/
https://bimmerguide.de/check-control-meldungen-e-modelle-v1/
List of roof fault codes:
https://www.staiger-neuffen.de/cabrio-dach-notdienst-roof-emergency-service/
Update 03/2022:
There might happen a tricky fault on the boot lid: if the brake light gets activated, the trunk lid opens while driving.
Have a look at the following description:
[Deleted]https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1909115#p1909115
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1725032#p1725032
This blue plug of the trunk lid harness can be found on the right next to the backlight cluster.
Update 05/2022:
The product I use to maintain the rubber seals of the roof. It's silicon free.
View attachment 4
Update 03/2024 Shutdown the annoying bong's
Depending of the mounted hifi system fuse 15 or 69 has to be pulled. Only one of them is plugged, so it's easy going.
Update 09/2024 Struts / gas springs on the roof as well as on the trunk lid
Roof E89 (BMW 54377212634) Stabilus 0728pb 800N (special tool required)
Trunk lid E89 (BMW 51247191255) Stabilus 499514 570N
Each pair should be replaced by new ones each decade.
Update 12/2024 The magic of the mirror heating in our Z4 - and how to dominate it!
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2104636#p2104636
