Head bolt torque values M54B30

Chris_D

Elite
 Mostly Holland. Sometimes UK.
ok tecchies, you know who u are - throwin it out there;
Expecting delivery of a valve cover gasket tomorrow in the pursuit of stemming an oil leak.
Will ofc be checking other things apart from gasket such as spark plug recesses, cover itself for cracks but also the head bolts for appropriate tightness.
Anyone advise for the correct torque value of those bolts?
Also, there's no grief if i rotate either cam with a monkey wrench to get to the obscured bolts is there?
Ta
 
I would never retorque head bolts except after a gasket change and then only if it was recommended by the manufacturer.

The bolts are likely stuck after years of heat cycles, so would need loosening and retorquing and you've more chance of causing the gasket to go or warp the head than achieve anything of use.
 
cj10jeeper said:
I would never retorque head bolts except after a gasket change and then only if it was recommended by the manufacturer.

The bolts are likely stuck after years of heat cycles, so would need loosening and retorquing and you've more chance of caising the basket to go or warp the head than achieve anything of use.

This

Also some head bolts are single use, so unless you plan on removing the head leave well alone.
 
cj10jeeper said:
I would never retorque head bolts except after a gasket change and then only if it was recommended by the manufacturer.

The bolts are likely stuck after years of heat cycles, so would need loosening and retorquing and you've more chance of caising the basket to go or warp the head than achieve anything of use.
thx cj.
but it was more to see if any are really loose by tightening to something like 30% under absolute torque spec.
seen a few videos of vcg replacement where it's been done as a double check for oil leaks at the top of the motor etc
you'd leave alone?
 
srhutch said:
cj10jeeper said:
I would never retorque head bolts except after a gasket change and then only if it was recommended by the manufacturer.

The bolts are likely stuck after years of heat cycles, so would need loosening and retorquing and you've more chance of caising the basket to go or warp the head than achieve anything of use.

This

Also some head bolts are single use, so unless you plan on removing the head leave well alone.

ok thx.
if leak is still present after the gasket replacement i know further inspection is warranted....
 
As I said I would not touch, but if you want to put to check they are not free, then do so. Temptation is to then just torque them up a little.

What I've perhaps missed is why? Unless you have a clear leak between block and head then leave alone. If you do then change the head gasket.
 
cj10jeeper said:
As I said I would not touch, but if you want to put to check they are not free, then do so. Temptation is to then just torque them up a little.

What I've perhaps missed is why? Unless you have a clear leak between block and head then leave alone. If you do then change the head gasket.
Yes, was really to see if any had become ridiculously loose.
What would u recommend as appropriate torque just for that?
 
Chris_D said:
cj10jeeper said:
As I said I would not touch, but if you want to put to check they are not free, then do so. Temptation is to then just torque them up a little.

What I've perhaps missed is why? Unless you have a clear leak between block and head then leave alone. If you do then change the head gasket.
Yes, was really to see if any had become ridiculously loose.
What would u recommend as appropriate torque just for that?

Agree with the other comments above regarding cylinder head bolts, if any had become ridiculously loose then your head gasket would no longer be sealing & you would be suffering from all the symptoms that brings.
If the engine runs well with no coolant in the oil/oil in the coolant then leave them alone & don't try & torque test them :thumbsup:
Rob
 
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