Got the car...Now what to do with the 108's to stop rust..?

B

Beancounter1980

Active member
Hi,

just picked up my car. The dealer did a complete refurb on the wheels and they look mint.

Now, what is at my disposal to stop them from rusting like crazy constantly? I don't want to get rid of them yet and would like to keep them in top nick.

I have researched on the forum. Some have "sealed" the gap with clear silicone - does this work?

Does painting the centres work? I have also heard of people polishing the outer rim - does this stop rust? Cheers
 
Clean them regularly, and protect with wheel wax, should last a decent amount of time.

I have thought about silicone on the inner side but have resisted so far not knowing which is better.
 
srhutch said:
Clean them regularly, and protect with wheel wax, should last a decent amount of time.

I have thought about silicone on the inner side but have resisted so far not knowing which is better.
Click to expand...

So there is no semi-permanent solution?
 
My last 108's lasted over 2 years but even then there was only very slight corrosion. I should have left longer really as I had around 8 months warranty left.

Look after the best you can is all I can say clean the inners everytime, and hope for the best.

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No long term solution unless you powedercoat them or something dramatic.
Fitting tyres, any minot scratch or grit and ater and dirt retention between the inner and outer spoke all cause problems by allowing water under the lacquer.

keep them clean, no aggressive wheel cleaners, regular waxing and keep an eye out for any scratches and lacquer them. Shoudl last a few years.
 
As per my previous posts - I have sealed the inner joint (where the star spoke meets the metal rim) with clear silicone sealer on the inside of the wheel. This prevents the ingress of water between the joints and prevents the start of corrosion (or at least reduces the opportunity for corrosion to start). You only need to seal the joint so a small amount of sealant is all thats need and certainly can't be seen. These joints will inevitably move against each other as the vehicle moves and the various stresses and strains of cornering are transmitted thorough the wheel itself to the suspension etc. This creates tiny fractures in the original paint/sealant/lacquer and allows water to get in. I have run my 108s with the sealant now for 4 1/2 years and with regular cleaning have had no problems. When I wash the car I ensure I dry the inner the rim before leaving the vehicle as water will drain down to the lowest point in the wheel and potentially cause the corrosion to start.
 
So the corrosion occurs on the inside? After looking at the pics it seems evident that's where the corrosion is. I'll take off the wheels and look at sealing.
 
Beancounter1980 said:
So the corrosion occurs on the inside? After looking at the pics it seems evident that's where the corrosion is. I'll take off the wheels and look at sealing.
Click to expand...

From wheels I have seen on this forum, at dealers and on others vehicles the corrosion starts on the inside and quickly appears on the outside through the gap between the starspoke and main rim. This is not to say that no corrosion starts on the outside but the silicone seal certainly reduces this possibility. Regular cleaning AND DRYING will certainly reduce the possibility of any corrosion starting. There is an argument that the corrosion is 'galvanic'. This occurs when two disimilar metals in contact with each other are imeresed in an electrolyte. The difference in the metals is found in the construct of the starspoke and the rim itself and the electrolyte is the water which contains impurities which assists it to act as an electrolyte (rain etc.). Any breach of the paint/lacquer protective coating will allow this electrochemical process to start.
 
I believe the corrosion starts at any point on the outer lip that the lacquer is breached. This can be from the inside as AlanJ suggests, but equally from fitting new tyres, chips, kerbing, etc.

I'd not actually hold with the galvanic corrosion, as both sections are alloy and you get just as much corrosion on any single piece alloy once the surface is breached.

Real problem with 108's is that being polished lips and clear lacquer it's visible really early. On a silver paint finish it could take months if not year longer to be so visible
 
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