Full Alignment

TH3CROW said:
Morning cj10jeeper,
Yesterday I took the car to the garage and the mecanic told me camber in a Z4 is not adjustable. They said its fixed. They told me you can adjust it but not in a "normal" way as you can adjust the toe because apparently they have to dismantle the whole suspension and bla,bla,bla... I thought camber was "easily" modifiable removing a pin on the top with an special tool, am I right cj?
Thank you once again.
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Yes front camber is adjustable within the limits of the tolerences in the 3 bolts that mount the strut top. You are correct that you remove the pin, typically to get more camber by pushing the towers inwards.

The guys who did mine said they often have to remove the pin just to get to OEM spec.
 
the hunter machines have an online database of the original manufacturers specs so i wouldn't worry and it's good stuff the bentley dealership i used to work next to used them and i used it to set up my cars over the years and it was very good
 
First of all I have to thank to everyone for all your advises and comments!
I realized my right pin is unscrewed so the head of it is above the metal mount and the thread of the pin is touching the mount towards the engine, and the left one is completly screwed so the pin's head is half-inside the hole of the mount. So I guess the previous owner or even in the dealer shop It's been modified because they told me (and I saw it by myself) the camber on both wheels were fine (-35'), wich also I think its too little for this kind of sportive car, isn't it? what do you think guys?? Do you think I should set it up with more camber or just leave it with the Non-Sport suspension figures?
Thanksssss!!!
 
There have been several posters in the past (Curtis come to mind as one) who put a lot more camber on to aid cornering, but that's much more for track than road. Of course this also has the effect of wearing the insides of the tyres down and until bedded in actually reducing braking ability.

Personally I'd have it all set to oem so you have a clean base and only then start to make changes so you know what made an improvement and what if anything it compromised.
 
Ok, I'll leave all settings to OEM. But somebody told me once, that gaining more camber at the front in our cars will get more stability in curves but also in straight driving, isn't it?
Apart from that, I'm thinking of replacing the cylinder head gasket by my own cos its dropping some oil on one side of the engine. Cj10jeeper (or anyone who can help), can you tell me the tighten-pair of the bolts (I don't exactly know how to say it in English...jeje) around the cylinder head so when I replace the gasket I do not get any bolt over tighten, please?? Or is not really necessary to tighten the bolts with so much accuracy??? I have to tell you that last night I bought a TIS cd from US-Ebay so I don't have to disturb you anymore!!! I promise I did that!! jeje.
Thak you very much!
 
Cylinder head torque and sequence will be critical to a good job and not stressing any one bolt of distorting the head.
I don't have the settings or sequence to hand but if I get time this evening will look it up

Are you sure the oil is leaking out the head gasket?
 
Hi again!
I took my car yesterday to de BMW dealer and they told me that probably one bolt's rubber join is broken (the one talked yesterday about) and thats why is dropping oil. They recomended me to change all the joins of every bolt and also the profile join to make sure is not gonna drop again.
They were very kind and gave me the torque of every type of bolt around the "rocker lid"(?) (cylinder head is the same than rorcker lid?don't know how to call the half top of the engine... :roll: )
I'll keep you informed when I'll recive the joins...
Happy New Year!!
 
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