Front top mount, will it last...?

Steve84N said:
I know the spring and strut can't pop through but the damper rod could then fully extend. Thinking about it that's probably enough to reach the bonnet as the wheel has a fair drop when you jack it up. That same distance would see the damper rod hitting the bonnet and the force would easily be enough to dent if not puncture.

Thanks for the tip Ryan, was looking at buying these tomorrow morning: http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-coil-spring-compressor

Out of interest why are you getting spring compressors.?

I've lowered two Z's and not needed them.
 
Did you not need them to deconstruct and reconstruct the front struts?

Also I found it very difficult to get the rear springs seated properly.
 
I know Corteco only as a brand for oil seals (premium OEM bmw brand), but they are not member of the ZF group (like lemforder).

Personally I'd want the lemforder ones, or maybe a very big discount at least. But no hands on experience with corteco bushings/mounts, just the oil seals.
 
I've tried that compressor tool from halfords and it didn't work. Need some thing like

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools/car-service-tools/hub-and-suspension-tools/coil-spring-compressors/?SEAAK384&0&t5_436
 
Steve84N said:
I've been sent Corteco mounts instead of the Lemforder I asked for. Would you use them or are they rubbish?


If they are genuine Corteco, I shouldn't imagine you will have any problems. Good stuff IMHO.

Mike
 
Steve84N said:
Yikes, was just on my way out to get it!

Why didn't it work, is it the angle of the two hooks?


Pritty much, didn't compress the springs enough, stock springs take some compressing to remove the top mounts.
 
I never use those kind of spring compressors. They work good on the old type linear springs with a lot of coils, but modern shocks have such few windings on the springs (and under such a slope) that I use other style compressors.
I have 3 sets of compressors:
this type (which I'll never use agian):
5932653_atc_ac500w80554_pri_larg.jpg


This type:
HTB1LNYOFVXXXXbYXVXXq6xXFXXXt.jpg
I've had this set for a long time, and works for a z4. But it doesnt work for for example my volvo as that has far bigger and larger/longer shocks (also springs with only a few coils so not enough to grab)

And this type:
PL-T03.jpg

This one works best, but its a large machine so it takes up a lot of space. Not very expensive though, still under £100, just like the previous one.

The z4 shocks and springs are still pretty small so manageable, but as modern cars get bigger and bigger, the springs get bigger and more awkward in shape.
Downside from the last 2 compressors is that you have to remove the shock to remove the top mount. But imho that might be easier anyway.
 
I used these and replacing the springs was no trouble at all.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291577651487?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Not worth spending stupid money for one job.
 
If anyone reads this in the future I've now got Lemforder top mounts and to me they are a noticeably better construction. They are the same as OEM with galvanised steel as opposed to black plated steel on the Cortec. More importantly the rubber can be indented by a fingernail on the Corteco but not the Lemforder. Overall shape was similar but not identical.
 
PS: It did last and it wasn't cracked at the bottom of the mount where the bearing is.

Changing everything out for a B12 kit was a challenge though as I had a number of difficulties. The rear springs didn't just come out so I eventually managed it with a crowbar. Then the front strut pinch bolts didn't budge, so I used a hairdryer to warm it up a bit and they started turning but only with a 0.5m breaker bar! When I eventually got them out after continually worrying about snapping them in situ they were heavily corroded with bloated threads. Stupid design with only one half of the pinch clamp threaded so it just sits in water most of the time. Right at the end when I thought I'd overcome it all I couldn't tighten the front strut top mounts as they are recessed within the top mount. Whilst Bilstein give you a 7mm allen key to stop the rod from turning you can't do that and have a socket over it. I only had a short 22mm and you needed a long thin walled 22mm with a hole in the side for an allen key. In the end my local garage saved me by grinding down one of his sockets as the wall was too thick as standard. Awful design! Ended up working all Friday night and took about 16hrs in all. :|
 
Back
Top Bottom