Southwestz4
Member
Does anyone know of a reasonably priced coil spring compressor for doing front springs ...springs are tapered so standard clamps don't work, needs to be the fork type ?
Thanks
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Front coil spring compressor
- Thread starter Southwestz4
- Start date
Thermaltake
Member
If possible, I would consider taking to a garage with a proper spring/strut compressor.
The front springs are an absolute pain because there are so few coils. Add in if you have a worn out shock you are in a for a wrestle. Getting them off isnt to difficult albeit sketchy. Getting new springs on a damper is tough going though. Even the garage i dropped them off at had a fight trying to get the top mounts on.
The front springs are an absolute pain because there are so few coils. Add in if you have a worn out shock you are in a for a wrestle. Getting them off isnt to difficult albeit sketchy. Getting new springs on a damper is tough going though. Even the garage i dropped them off at had a fight trying to get the top mounts on.
how are your front springs tapered? The fronts have the same thickness throughout while only the rears had tapered springs (which you dont need a spring compressor for). I used a normal spring compressor you can rent at an autoparts store. It was finicky but it did work out. I had to use one of the clamps to compress one side to allow the 2nd clamp to grab over 2 coils.
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Some people seem to have no issues - many more do have problems! Maybe it all depends on your personal risk threshold? I tried to do mine myself and bottled out, the chap who did them for me used the floor standing type of machine and even with that he struggled.
Those spanner ones in the picture do look like quite professional ones though.
But it's not that you can't do it with those, but it's more that they can get really diagonal/crooked on the spring because of the few windings.
It's also a matter of feeling comfortable inches away of getting really really hurt if they do slip off. (the stored potential energy is immense)
That's why the best springcompressors have very adjustable claws to set on the windings, and have a cage built around them.
like such:
But it's not that you can't do it with those, but it's more that they can get really diagonal/crooked on the spring because of the few windings.
It's also a matter of feeling comfortable inches away of getting really really hurt if they do slip off. (the stored potential energy is immense)
That's why the best springcompressors have very adjustable claws to set on the windings, and have a cage built around them.
like such:
Southwestz4
Member
I have the double hook type ( Lazer ones )..I have just replaced the front struts and springs, stripped them down myself , hooked clamps only just had enough grab to release the top nut ..it did ping off a bit . I then got my local garage to put new springs on struts.
The problem is that one of the springs is not seated correctly and I was hoping to find a compressor so that I can adjust it on the car without having to strip it out again.
The problem is that one of the springs is not seated correctly and I was hoping to find a compressor so that I can adjust it on the car without having to strip it out again.
I've changed a few now, using basic compressors. If you are sensible it's easy.
Cannot understand how a garage struggled to get top mounts off?
Simple to grip the shiny piston with mole grips. Then crack the top nut with a socket. The piston will turn slightly until the grips wedge against the spring, then undo. You only need a quarter turn at this stage.
(EDIT: Just realised the garage struggled to get them on, not off. Makes more sense, but still not beyond the wit of an experienced mechanic)
Then fit the spring compressors.
I use three and find it is easiest to alternate them. One or two hook over the top mount plate and round the spring near the bottom.
The remaining one or two hook under the bottom retaining plate and the top of the spring.
It is simple to compress them and then whip the top nut off, although for safety's sake I always have it pointing away from me, with my foot on the base of the strut and aiming it up the garden, just in case.
Refitting is the same process, though it is easiest to hook the compressors over the bottom plate and the top of the spring, then gradually and evenly pull the spring down, testing every now and then until you can get the top nut onto the threads. Then you can use this to crank the top plate down further. Then whip off the compressors and reassemble them holding the top plate and the bottoms of the springs. Keep compressing until the top nut is loose again.
Remove the top nut and keep compressing, slowly and evenly until you have enough thread to fit the washer, top mount and nut back on.
The description sounds messier than the job actually is.
I'm pretty sure Stuart (bigwinn) uses the same process and once you master it there's no real problem.
As always, common sense, an awareness of you own abilities and not using the cheapest tools available makes it a DIY job.
If you're not comfortable doing it then a garage would be the sensible option.
Cannot understand how a garage struggled to get top mounts off?
Simple to grip the shiny piston with mole grips. Then crack the top nut with a socket. The piston will turn slightly until the grips wedge against the spring, then undo. You only need a quarter turn at this stage.
(EDIT: Just realised the garage struggled to get them on, not off. Makes more sense, but still not beyond the wit of an experienced mechanic)
Then fit the spring compressors.
I use three and find it is easiest to alternate them. One or two hook over the top mount plate and round the spring near the bottom.
The remaining one or two hook under the bottom retaining plate and the top of the spring.
It is simple to compress them and then whip the top nut off, although for safety's sake I always have it pointing away from me, with my foot on the base of the strut and aiming it up the garden, just in case.
Refitting is the same process, though it is easiest to hook the compressors over the bottom plate and the top of the spring, then gradually and evenly pull the spring down, testing every now and then until you can get the top nut onto the threads. Then you can use this to crank the top plate down further. Then whip off the compressors and reassemble them holding the top plate and the bottoms of the springs. Keep compressing until the top nut is loose again.
Remove the top nut and keep compressing, slowly and evenly until you have enough thread to fit the washer, top mount and nut back on.
The description sounds messier than the job actually is.
I'm pretty sure Stuart (bigwinn) uses the same process and once you master it there's no real problem.
As always, common sense, an awareness of you own abilities and not using the cheapest tools available makes it a DIY job.
If you're not comfortable doing it then a garage would be the sensible option.
Yeah you wrote refitting is the same process, but with mole grips you damage the chrome-nickel layer, which either damages the seals or causes corrosion (or both).enuff_zed said:
Always have a leather strip (or some strong cardboard) inbetween. Nothing metal (or other hard material) may ever touch a piston rod.
