Front brake caliper removal - HELP

Zedebee

Lifer
North Hampshire
Any advice on how to remove the 16mm bolts at the back of the caliper holder? They are jammed solid on both my Coupe and son’s roadster and there’s not a lot of space to get leverage. Are they just torqued up really tight, or what? I’m reluctant to start squirting WD40 around in this area.
 
You're right there's not much space to work getting those out but it's doable. I sometimes use a rubber Mallet on the wrench to help.

Can you slip a tube/breaker bar over the wrench to increase the torque?

One thing I always do is check I'm turning the wrench the right way, as the bolts are facing the wrong way if that makes sense. Made that mistake a couple of times, nothing broken thankfully.
 
I gave up with mine before i did any damage. Even my impact gun wouldn't shift them and there was not enough room to get a decent breaker bar in there with the car on the ground. Up on a lift it'd be fairly easy so I gave it to my garage to sort out.
 
dhobbs said:
One thing I always do is check I'm turning the wrench the right way, as the bolts are facing the wrong way if that makes sense. Made that mistake a couple of times, nothing broken thankfully.

They’re normal threads presumably - righty tighty, lefty loosey?
 
Zedebee said:
dhobbs said:
One thing I always do is check I'm turning the wrench the right way, as the bolts are facing the wrong way if that makes sense. Made that mistake a couple of times, nothing broken thankfully.

They’re normal threads presumably - righty tighty, lefty loosey?

Yes normal-

Mine were same and needed a breaker bar to shift- which meant turning the steering to get better access
 
Zedebee said:
dhobbs said:
One thing I always do is check I'm turning the wrench the right way, as the bolts are facing the wrong way if that makes sense. Made that mistake a couple of times, nothing broken thankfully.

They’re normal threads presumably - righty tighty, lefty loosey?

Yeah, normal bolts, just that you are looking at them from the opposite side. Maybe it's just me getting it wrong :oops:
 
Get some penetrating fluid in there and leave it overnight if necessary, it's counter intuitive but giving a sharp tap on the wrench both ways as if to tighten and loosen (without going bonkers) can break the rust, a long bar and a good quality wrench is a must to avoid rounding-off.
 
Similar problem with mine, soaked a couple of rags in penetrant and wrapped them round the bolts over night. You can actually turn the front wheels just enough to get a breaker bar in whilst its on jacks as well. The rears are obviously trickier as you can't do this, but they aren't torqued as high (at least mine weren't :cry:) , I actually managed to get them off with a ring spanner and a fair bit of swearing :thumbsup:
 
Ewazix said:
Get some penetrating fluid in there and leave it overnight if necessary, it's counter intuitive but giving a sharp tap on the wrench both ways as if to tighten and loosen (without going bonkers) can break the rust

This is what I did and then used a rubber mallet as suggested by dhobbs . Impact wrench didn`t do anything .
 
Thanks for your help and advice chaps. Tried full lock (don’t know why I didn’t think of that, i’ve always just jacked up the car with wheels straight ahead!). Full lock gives you access to enough range of movement with a breaker bar to unstick the bottom bolt. Can’t get at the top bolt though, because the brake hose is in the way. I’ll de-mount the calliper from the bracket tomorrow and should be able to get at it then.
 
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