Ok, so have had the kit for a couple of weeks, went for the I6 Automotive one, and bought the DISA valve repair and anti-rattle rings at the same time. Also ordered a new cam cover and VANOS gasket. I also wanted fit the new water pump I've had for months, as I suspected it of leaking ever so slightly..
So, car on the ramp and up in the air to remove the undertray
Now I have seen mention that the job is VERY tight on the E85, due to the limited access in front of the engine, for sliding the VANOS unit of it's (long) studs. Now I had a nose at the studs and could see only a mm or so protruding from the nuts on them, so doubted I'd be able to get my roller stud removal tools on them, so I had to think laterally...
Decided to remove the BOTTOM engine mount nuts, as they are easily accessible through the wishbones I then lowered the car and used a trolley jack and a length of 3x3 to raise the engine on the sump between the rack and the anti roll bar.. I thought I'd have to remove the inlet trunking, but all was ok and no hoses/cables were strained.
I think the insides of my engine look pretty clean for 62k, no signs at all of sludge etc. The old cam cover gasket was ROCK hard and fell to pieces in my hands, no wonder it has been leaking at the back! The bits left over the spark plug tubes also fell to pieces as I removed them!
Before, the VANOS sits like this;
After, it is raised into this position;
Removed all the nuts & bolts NOTE; Beisan guides say there are SIX nuts/bolts holding the VANOS unit to the engine, there are in fact SEVEN! One is tucked away underneath next to the CPS! The only extra item I had to remove was to undo the lower rad hose from the thermostat housing (just pull the clip and slide it off) as the inlet VANOS solenoid was fouling it and the temp sensor connection on the hose, as per pic;
After doing that, the VANOS simply slides EASILY off!!
Then I stripped it down, and before cleaning it I took the opportunity to see just how loose the pistons were in the chambers, they were VERY loose, with NO discernible friction between the seals and the housings. I reckon the oil has been pi$$ing past them!
[youtube]HutB8v5yJas[/youtube]
Cleaned it all up and fitted the new seals as per the guide, bedding them in for 10 mins, after this the pistons were MUCH tighter in the bores, requiring two finger pressure to move them! Didn't take any pics as that bit is straight forward, as per the guide, the teflon outer rings are tough, but they do give enough to get them on.
Took the opportunity to replace the water pump whilst I left the seals "bedding in";
Old one was a PIG to get off, but then I noticed the two "extra" threaded holes in the new one, so used two of the thermostat housing bolts into the holes on the old one to "push" it out of the block. Interestingly, the old (I presume original) one had a plastic impellar, whereas the new Meyle one has an alloy one..
All back together, nice and easy, got the cam cover on, but ran out of time
and had to get to the shop - So will finish tomorrow afternoon and update!
Job nowhere near as difficult as I expected it to be to be honest!
Mike
So, car on the ramp and up in the air to remove the undertray
Now I have seen mention that the job is VERY tight on the E85, due to the limited access in front of the engine, for sliding the VANOS unit of it's (long) studs. Now I had a nose at the studs and could see only a mm or so protruding from the nuts on them, so doubted I'd be able to get my roller stud removal tools on them, so I had to think laterally...
Decided to remove the BOTTOM engine mount nuts, as they are easily accessible through the wishbones
I then lowered the car and used a trolley jack and a length of 3x3 to raise the engine on the sump between the rack and the anti roll bar.. I thought I'd have to remove the inlet trunking, but all was ok and no hoses/cables were strained.I think the insides of my engine look pretty clean for 62k, no signs at all of sludge etc. The old cam cover gasket was ROCK hard and fell to pieces in my hands, no wonder it has been leaking at the back! The bits left over the spark plug tubes also fell to pieces as I removed them!
Before, the VANOS sits like this;
After, it is raised into this position;
Removed all the nuts & bolts NOTE; Beisan guides say there are SIX nuts/bolts holding the VANOS unit to the engine, there are in fact SEVEN! One is tucked away underneath next to the CPS! The only extra item I had to remove was to undo the lower rad hose from the thermostat housing (just pull the clip and slide it off) as the inlet VANOS solenoid was fouling it and the temp sensor connection on the hose, as per pic;
After doing that, the VANOS simply slides EASILY off!!
Then I stripped it down, and before cleaning it I took the opportunity to see just how loose the pistons were in the chambers, they were VERY loose, with NO discernible friction between the seals and the housings. I reckon the oil has been pi$$ing past them!
[youtube]HutB8v5yJas[/youtube]
Cleaned it all up and fitted the new seals as per the guide, bedding them in for 10 mins, after this the pistons were MUCH tighter in the bores, requiring two finger pressure to move them! Didn't take any pics as that bit is straight forward, as per the guide, the teflon outer rings are tough, but they do give enough to get them on.
Took the opportunity to replace the water pump whilst I left the seals "bedding in";
Old one was a PIG to get off, but then I noticed the two "extra" threaded holes in the new one, so used two of the thermostat housing bolts into the holes on the old one to "push" it out of the block. Interestingly, the old (I presume original) one had a plastic impellar, whereas the new Meyle one has an alloy one..
All back together, nice and easy, got the cam cover on, but ran out of time
and had to get to the shop - So will finish tomorrow afternoon and update!Job nowhere near as difficult as I expected it to be to be honest!
Mike
