Fan, code 2EFE. Suspect fan is goosed

D

dhobbs

Senior member
Just used Carly to check for faults, and found fan motor - 2EFE.

Now I assume this is the radiator fan.
What should I be testing to check that it works?
Can you use Carly to force it to run?

Is the fuse/relay in the engine bay?

I remember someone having an issue with the connector at the top of the radiator and needing re-crimping. Do I need to take the radiator cover off to get to this connector?

Luckily my drive to work is normally free flowing so no risk of overheating yet!
 
Don't think Carly can run it but INPA definitely can as I've played around with that before in INPA. Defo check the small thin green wire that runs into the connector - it has a bad habit of corroding and turning to dust! See here... https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=102083&p=1491546&hilit=fan+wire+green#p1491546
 
ph001 said:
Don't think Carly can run it but INPA definitely can as I've played around with that before in INPA. Defo check the small thin green wire that runs into the connector - it has a bad habit of corroding and turning to dust! See here... https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=102083&p=1491546&hilit=fan+wire+green#p1491546
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's what I was after.
Strangely enough, my AC works, although I'll double check tonight.
 
A/C definitely works.
I checked the small green wire and although it's still attached it doesn't look that great.

How can I test the fan?
If I take it out and put 12V across the main pins, should that make it spin?

The green wire, is that just a sense to go back to the ECU?
Should it pulse when the fan goes on?

Lots of questions I know 😞
 
I think typically it's the copper conductor inside the wire that basically oxidises so even though it looks OK from the outside it's not really connected electrically.

In terms of the control, yes definitely a square wave pulse waveform on the green wire but I'm not sure if that is a control input from the DME (and the speed regulation is done on the fan itself) or if it an output from the fan back to the DME to report the fan speed. In fact it could be both if it's BSD (bit serial data). That being the case I'm not sure if just putting 12V straight on those two big power connections will spin the fan or not, but I'm fairly certain it won't do any damage if you try.
 
Does anyone know if there is a repair kit for the radiator connector?
It might be worth replacing the crimp and a foot or so of the cable.
 
When you say the AC works, you mean the fan is on when AC is on ?

If so the connectors are fine

The green wire regulates the speed via PCM, so you have to have signal on that wire to make the fan spin and not something you can reproduce very easily, hence if it works at all, then I'd assume the wire is good. INPA was the only way I found to run tests on it and spin it up
 
I've no idea if the radiator fan works at all. I can't hear it, not sure if I knew it was on.

As for the AC working, it cools the air down. Is it supposed to put the rad fan on at the same time?
 
Just checked and fan does not come on with the AC running.

I took the fan out which was very easy, and noticed at least three points on the windings where copper corrosion has taken place. At least one of the strands has broken.
Looks like a new fan now. Had a look on eBay and can't find an exact replacement, but prices are £300 plus! 😱

Anyone know where you can get a pattern part for a reasonable price?
 
Fan will be fine I am sure. Green corrosion is fine as is even splitting the windings, there are many loops for a fail safe

Your issue will likely be green wire as alluded to before. Break open the connection blocks, connect +/-'s via croc ended wires between them. Then jump the green connector from fan to a clean bit of green wire ie scrape the insolution away a inch or so back to copper and connect croc to that. If that works then just cut wire and make extension, if not just wrap it again.

Checkout my thread. Cost me nothing in the end to fix.

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=105320

However you really need the INPA to be sure as that allows you to send signals to the fan direct.
 
ph001 said:
I think typically it's the copper conductor inside the wire that basically oxidises so even though it looks OK from the outside it's not really connected electrically.

In terms of the control, yes definitely a square wave pulse waveform on the green wire but I'm not sure if that is a control input from the DME (and the speed regulation is done on the fan itself) or if it an output from the fan back to the DME to report the fan speed. In fact it could be both if it's BSD (bit serial data). That being the case I'm not sure if just putting 12V straight on those two big power connections will spin the fan or not, but I'm fairly certain it won't do any damage if you try.
Click to expand...

Yup, it's BSD.. Don't even ask me how I know that one.... :x

Mike
 
Thanks Charlie8. At least my wallet can start relaxing.

I did pay Munich Legends to fix this, but I've got no faith in them anymore. They did remake the connection to the green wire but without another known working fan it may be hard to test this.

Do you know when the other end of the cable comes from?
If so I can do a continuity check.

Also, can you see the bsd signal on a DVM? I assume it's 5v peak. Getting hold of a scope may be tricky.
Thanks
 
Car is in the garage having its service, plus new track rods and RTABs. So I've asked them to sort out the fan. They agree it's more likely the wiring.
 
dhobbs said:
I did pay Munich Legends to fix this, but I've got no faith in them anymore. They did remake the connection to the green wire but without another known working fan it may be hard to test this.
Click to expand...

Well if Munich Legends aren't capable of testing the fan with the likes of INPA I wouldn't even trust them to wipe their own arses.
 
I have gone off Munich Legends big time. So many people rave about them, but I've had quite a few friends who have had problems with them.

I won't use them again and will not recommend either.


I have now gone to Walkers Autotech. No problems so far!
 
Well the garage say it's the fan, so although ML did fix the wiring, the fan is still goosed. So no need to end testing done at ML.

Anyway, a new fan from BMW is £550!!!!
I have taken a punt on a second hand one off eBay for a fraction of the price.

I will update when I receive it.
 
Got the second hand fan and installed, still not working.
I am really p'd off now. Either I have two duff fans or the wiring is shagged.
I am going to BMW to see if I can get a new crimp and put a new length in.

Looking at the wire, it is all green and corroded even though it still makes a physical connection, I doubt the electrical properties.
 
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