Engine management warning light

Redz4

New member
I purchased my red z4 23 auto last July and have had an intermittent issue with the yellow engine light coming on.
The car is not being heavily used and the longest trip only 50 miles. It has just under 50k mileage.
Once engine is warm if you accelerate hard the warning light comes on and the tune goes rough.
If you stop and restart the light goes off and engine back to normal.
If you push again it may repeat.
Is this something simple or likely to be a big problem. I cannot take on long trip.
I tried a car Dr diagnostic but can't get to work so no help there.
Nothing comes up on the car settings.
Any thoughts would be appreciated
 
Redz4 said:
I purchased my red z4 23 auto last July and have had an intermittent issue with the yellow engine light coming on.
The car is not being heavily used and the longest trip only 50 miles. It has just under 50k mileage.
Once engine is warm if you accelerate hard the warning light comes on and the tune goes rough.
If you stop and restart the light goes off and engine back to normal.
If you push again it may repeat.
Is this something simple or likely to be a big problem. I cannot take on long trip.
I tried a car Dr diagnostic but can't get to work so no help there.
Nothing comes up on the car settings.
Any thoughts would be appreciated

I am not an expert, and I'm sure more informed advisers will soon arrive but.............. if it happens when warm and on hard acceleration, is it possibly fuel related? Running too weak maybe?
Fuel pump can't keep up?
When cold, maybe the fuel enrichment system (however it works) is compensating?

Just a thought.
 
Hi, you need the codes read or it turns into an expensive guessing game. Whereabouts are you as their maybe someone with Carly etc that’s willing to scan the car for you?
Rob
 
On my last E46 6 pot I had the exact same issue. It turned out to be the actuator that controls the variable intake track.

On hard acceleration, the engine light would come on, the exhaust note would sound less aggressive, and idle would also be rough. Shutting down and restarting would sort it until you went WOT. Eventually the fault remained and I had to have the actuator replaced. Was an easy job, and not overly expensive. Hopefully you have similar luck with your repair.
 
You need to get a good code reader plugged into it and see what codes have been set, knowing that will point you in the right direction as to what is wrong. Most common problem is air leaks between the Maf and throttle body or split vacuum hoses and pipes in the system. Don't fall into the trap of replacing sensors just because a code for it has been set, the problem may well be upstream or downstream of a componant and the problem is triggering a sensor due to a malfunction of another sensor. It's no good just changing sensors because it has set a code you could be throwing money away doing that when the root of the problem is elsewhere. Where are you, I am in South Wales and if near can put a code reader on it for you and also look at live data, fuel trims etc which may well tell you more as to what is wrong.
 
I'm in South Woodford but work near Stratford, East London, if you're nearby I'm happy to try and read the codes for you
 
Wouldn't be surprised if it's a coil breaking down.
Go to euro carparts, buy one coil and swap it out each position.
I think the knock sensor sets off the warning.

My bus. partner car did the same, i swapped out the coils with one from my car.
I found one bad coil. That was a 12k mile car.
 
This may be worth a look, ours is a 2.0 auto. We had a similar issue with a yellow engine warning light but the car was still running normally. We have an extended warrantee so called BMW assistance who sent an engineer and it turned out to be a loose connector plug which had not been correctly locked when some previous work had been done at the dealers and had worked loose. Fault diagnosis on the paperwork was as follows:

I level: 16-07-503. Faults logged in DME - Oxygen sensor before CAT - Intermittent open circuit / short / heating element faults logged.

Carry out corresponding test plan: ABL-DIT-B1214_TVD_LV1N - Carry out visual inspection & check connections as per SSP.
Found block connector B6200*1B not fully locked in to position & security tab not locked - Block connector nearly fully disconnected in bracket.

Check terminals & security lugs = ok. Re-connect & check security = ok. Refit all. Carry out functional test of oxygen sensor via test plan = ok.

Clear fault memory, allow vhl to sleep. Run up to operating temperature. Re-check fault memory. Tospec.
 
Redz4 said:
I purchased my red z4 23 auto last July and have had an intermittent issue with the yellow engine light coming on.
The car is not being heavily used and the longest trip only 50 miles. It has just under 50k mileage.
Once engine is warm if you accelerate hard the warning light comes on and the tune goes rough.
If you stop and restart the light goes off and engine back to normal.
If you push again it may repeat.
Is this something simple or likely to be a big problem. I cannot take on long trip.
I tried a car Dr diagnostic but can't get to work so no help there.
Nothing comes up on the car settings.
Any thoughts would be appreciated
Whereabouts are you located?
 
mcbutler said:
Redz4 said:
I purchased my red z4 23 auto last July and have had an intermittent issue with the yellow engine light coming on.
The car is not being heavily used and the longest trip only 50 miles. It has just under 50k mileage.
Once engine is warm if you accelerate hard the warning light comes on and the tune goes rough.
If you stop and restart the light goes off and engine back to normal.
If you push again it may repeat.
Is this something simple or likely to be a big problem. I cannot take on long trip.
I tried a car Dr diagnostic but can't get to work so no help there.
Nothing comes up on the car settings.
Any thoughts would be appreciated
Whereabouts are you located?

The op hasn’t logged back in since making the post :roll:
Rob
 
To all who replied with ideas thank you.
Apologies in not replying sooner I am new to forum and not used to.
I think the actuator is most likely as it sounds exactly the same
I am in north Kent for inf.
I still can't get my car Dr to connect but I haven't had a lot of time.
Again thank you all
I am talking to local BMW non franchise and let you know outcome.
:)
 
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