E89 porous boot

H

Highlander

Member
 Perthshire
I'm in the process of curing the inherant problem of water leaking into the boot on my E89 and want to remove all the electrics on the right hand side well to dry out the crappy bit of "foam" they sit in and mop up the water......how difficult will this be?
Will I have to unplug modules,etc to remove this foam....seems too tight a fit to remove with everything in place?
I've already removed all the relevant trim and that'll stay off until I'm convinved she's watertight and today removed the top piece of seal with the 2 shaped rubber pieces(2 torx screws to locate) and cleaned and resealed that during refitting.Both rear lights will be removed next and sealed and refitted.Not sure how to check the vents that are low down on either side and exit into the cavity behind the rear bumper but I'll investigate when the lights are out and seal as required.
There was loads of water around battery/roof pump,none under left side cubby and seems a fair bit under electrics on right side.......hopefully I'll be able to effect a decent repair without a dealer visit as I'll be sure it'll be a "belt & braces" job,but any tips especially regarding the right hand side and removal of electrics.
Rear lights I should be OK with.....seems straight forward to remove and seal.
Thanks for all advice and help in advance
Edit:2010 model year in case that's relevant regarding any recalls that might/should have been done prior to my ownership
 
Before you pull the tail light out, just check the two oval seals to see if they were fitted properly in the first place.
When I first had knocking problem with my back axle I asked the dealer to check the history of the vehicle, 23i 2009 model.
He said it had been called back for the air vent mod (plus new iDrive screen that had failed) and had been replaced.
When reassembled leave all trim out and lay around sheets of kitchen tissue to try and trace any leaks.
I once found a pin hole leak in a bulkhead letting in water, soaking a carpet and a fuel leak in an aircraft using this method.
 
I have just repaired a leak in the boot of my 2011 E89, which might help a little. Its worth checking the effectiveness of the seal using a piece of paper.

If you look at the two photos I have attached. The first one is of the off side boot seal near the light lens. The second is of the near side at the same place. You will see that the rubber seal has a secondary lip at the top. On the near side this had flattened and water was running under the boot lid and over the seal. A new seal was fitted and problem fixed.

You can simply check the compression tension of the seal by cutting a long thin piece of paper and clamp it between the seal and boot lid (i.e. close the boot lid on the paper). Then try gently pulling on the paper - resistance should be felt and not able to pull the paper from its clamped position. Move along the total seal length of the boot lid. At least this will confirm that there is a good compression on the seal and any areas that are not compressed.

Hope this helps a little? :thumbsup:



 
Thanks guys,info very helpful and watched the video on you tube......light are out and drying in the house.Probably going to sit with the wife's hairdryer on them tomorrow.
Seals on the rear lights were both letting in water...should I replace them(is this possible?)or refit and seal properly?
Might replace the main seal around the boot aperture as it looks deformed in a couple of places but I'll check the fit as suggested with the strips of paper.
I'm thinking it would be a good idea to buy these parts from BMW for a proper fit......any suggestions for other suppliers of decent quality parts.....ECP??
Can't see any evidence of water leaking past the vents,thought I might be able to get some access when the rear lamp clusters were out to remove them and refit but no joy.Could probably push them out and retrieve them but might be tricky to refit correctly so any suggestions there?
Not actually 100% convinced these vents are necessary as the bootlid is softclosing so no huge volume of air getting moved rapidly when the boot is slammed shut.....same with the doors,windows are open when the door is being closed.
Just had a thought.....can I chuck the lamp clusters in the fan oven at a low temp to dry out....a few droplets in there and some misting???
 
I wouldn't put the lights in an oven!
Just gentle warmth from a blow heater dries them out in half an hour or so.
I think the vents are required as fowl air vents for the cabin, as air is drawn out at speed, otherwise cabin would mist up.
If you look at all car designs, have them somewhere. Might even be a legal thing, to stop build up of fumes.
Boot seal a good point.
 
I have replaced both rear light clusters with parts from ECP. The first one I bought last July was the modified version, my car is 2009, which has two connecting bolts rather than the original three. Just about to fit the second which I bought last week from ECP for £138, which is an extremely reasonable price. Both made by Magnetti Marelli so not cheap eastern europe crap.
 
Looks like they are original parts, probably with the original dodgy foam seals.
I would still glue them up for piece of mind.
 
You may be interested in this topic http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=77478&hilit=Water

It would seem that some seals in some cars are not holding up.
 
Cheers Angie,I'd read that a while back not long after starting the search for a car but couldn't find it last week when I needed the info.
Rear lights are all dried out now and I'll probably re-assemble it all at the weekend.....weather permitting!!(no garage)
Course of action is:
Rear lights sealed & re-assembled in the house then at weekend put them back on the car with sealant on rubber seal also if possible.The short top seal for the run-off from the roof/window is still wet at 1 end so I'll re-seal that also.
Un-decided on main boot seal as I tried testing the grip of the seal with paper strips in closed bootlid but whilst I could pull them out there felt to be some friction.
The foam surrounding the roof pump was a real PITA to dry out so that'll get put in some plastic to keep it dry in the event of more water ingress before I'm happy with all the "repairs"
And all the trim can stay in the attic for a wee while as I've another trip to Thurso in a couple of weeks so for once I'm hoping for rain.
Thanks for everyone's guidance/help.......was going the main dealer route at first but realised if I did it myself then I'd be sure there'll be no more leaks.
 
Was up in Aberdeen today so popped into main dealer there and priced the following:
Main boot seal(runs round most of the aperture) £125
Rear light seals(rubber & plastic with the 2 openings) £14.50
Rear vents( fitted either side and vent behind bumper) £4.70
All prices +VAT and collected from dealer
It's possible that I may have to replace the main seal but thought I'd stick the prices up here for reference
And I also asked if these parts had been changed since originally manufactured(i.e. Upgraded) and was told no as they've had the same part number from start of E89 production....happy days....no need to change parts that can be re-fitted and properly sealed.
Hope it's not chucking it down on Sat as I need to get it all together.
 
Highlander said:
Was up in Aberdeen today so popped into main dealer there and priced the following:
Main boot seal(runs round most of the aperture) £125
Rear light seals(rubber & plastic with the 2 openings) £14.50
Rear vents( fitted either side and vent behind bumper) £4.70
All prices +VAT and collected from dealer
It's possible that I may have to replace the main seal but thought I'd stick the prices up here for reference
And I also asked if these parts had been changed since originally manufactured(i.e. Upgraded) and was told no as they've had the same part number from start of E89 production....happy days....no need to change parts that can be re-fitted and properly sealed.
Hope it's not chucking it down on Sat as I need to get it all together.
Click to expand...
Give the service dept at Sopers of Lincoln a bell they give a forum discount and I think free postage,my save you a few quid :)
 
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/BMW_Z4+Roadster_2.0_2012/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/lighting1/rear-light/?478112510&1&a4a3946f62f61d77d43a14e3568c27c3cf896ee6&000269


http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/BMW_Z4+Roadster_2.0_2012/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/lighting1/rear-light/?478112520&1&0f00dcc475c28d0c37ea02909bc31d6bbba4dd9f&000269
 
Just to finally put this to bed,all looks to be good and dry in the boot every time I check although we've not had huge amounts of rain whilst I've been driving.
Didn't actually need to buy any parts,just seal everything up properly and I'd recommend that anyone with issues does this themselves rather than go down the main dealer route.....not particularly difficult.
I reckon if I'd dropped the car at my local main dealer then it would've been 2 rear lights replaced,invoice north of £300 and still water in the boot within a couple of months.
Thanks for all the pointers and help :thumbsup:
 
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