It has been on my todo list to strip the drivers door down to stop me looking like a car thief in the heat of the summer trying to get into it. The original problem is when the door is very hot it is hard to get into it, I assume after reading various threads it is likely to be the cable that has stretched, with the extra heat in the summer it stretches that tiny but more to make it difficult to get in.
Now I have an additional problem, the window has has stopped working after the freezing conditions we had a few weeks back. My guess is that since the Z4 drops and brings back up the window an inch when you get in and out, it has tried to do this when the drivers door has been completely iced up putting stress on the old parts.
I used the guide here to strip the door down: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Djgcv-VpCW8 great guide! They seem to have used tons of the sticky stuff on mine so i ended up ripping the foam, i know how important that foam is on the Z4 to keep the water out so will buy another from dealer. I managed to find what I think is causing the issue, appears the cable has snapped going into the regulator:
I have seen these cable kits of ebay for about £60 but like my old E36 that kept having window problems I think it better to replace the lot while I have access to everything once I did that on the E36 no more problems... .
Its amazing how the 1995 E36 compact and this 2004 Z4 have had similar weak points over the years of ownership.... windscreen wiper mechanisms both went, window mechanism while very different have both gone too (a fail for BMW since I guess this new design should have been more reliable) cooling system's both blew up due to cracked plastic parts. :headbang:
Since I have the door opened up i figure I will do the mods to dampen the sound of the doors when closing and add the CJ LED mod to under the inside door handle. The puddle lights are also tempting but I assume I need to bring in a feed from the floor lighting to get those to light up prior to getting in the car.
My questions are:
1) In terms of the outer handle wont work when hot issue is it possible to access the the cable for the outer door handle and change it without removing the outer door handle? From reading the forum a specialist pain in the ass tool is required to remove the actual outer door handle.
2) Does anyone have any preference to the type of sound deadening material for the door? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DYNAMAT-SOUND-DEADNING-XTREME-Extreme-1-SHEET-18-x32-/181099830161?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item2a2a641b91 will a couple of sheets of that do the trick? Any special adhesive anyone has used to stop it coming off over time with condensation?
3) Is it possible to grab power from the backlighting LED's in the window switch to feed the single LED behind the grab handle? Sorry being lazy here I know i should get my multimeter out. Just wondered if the voltage was a few volts for the LED's or 12v so bmw put the resistors in the switch housing. i am guessing the later in which case i'll source some Orange LED and resistors.
4) Anything I should be aware of when changing out the entire mechanism? From reading other threads this is about 110 quid from sopers.
Thanks in advance!
Pics of the window regulator damage:
Now I have an additional problem, the window has has stopped working after the freezing conditions we had a few weeks back. My guess is that since the Z4 drops and brings back up the window an inch when you get in and out, it has tried to do this when the drivers door has been completely iced up putting stress on the old parts.
I used the guide here to strip the door down: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Djgcv-VpCW8 great guide! They seem to have used tons of the sticky stuff on mine so i ended up ripping the foam, i know how important that foam is on the Z4 to keep the water out so will buy another from dealer. I managed to find what I think is causing the issue, appears the cable has snapped going into the regulator:
I have seen these cable kits of ebay for about £60 but like my old E36 that kept having window problems I think it better to replace the lot while I have access to everything once I did that on the E36 no more problems... .
Its amazing how the 1995 E36 compact and this 2004 Z4 have had similar weak points over the years of ownership.... windscreen wiper mechanisms both went, window mechanism while very different have both gone too (a fail for BMW since I guess this new design should have been more reliable) cooling system's both blew up due to cracked plastic parts. :headbang:
Since I have the door opened up i figure I will do the mods to dampen the sound of the doors when closing and add the CJ LED mod to under the inside door handle. The puddle lights are also tempting but I assume I need to bring in a feed from the floor lighting to get those to light up prior to getting in the car.
My questions are:
1) In terms of the outer handle wont work when hot issue is it possible to access the the cable for the outer door handle and change it without removing the outer door handle? From reading the forum a specialist pain in the ass tool is required to remove the actual outer door handle.
2) Does anyone have any preference to the type of sound deadening material for the door? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DYNAMAT-SOUND-DEADNING-XTREME-Extreme-1-SHEET-18-x32-/181099830161?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item2a2a641b91 will a couple of sheets of that do the trick? Any special adhesive anyone has used to stop it coming off over time with condensation?
3) Is it possible to grab power from the backlighting LED's in the window switch to feed the single LED behind the grab handle? Sorry being lazy here I know i should get my multimeter out. Just wondered if the voltage was a few volts for the LED's or 12v so bmw put the resistors in the switch housing. i am guessing the later in which case i'll source some Orange LED and resistors.
4) Anything I should be aware of when changing out the entire mechanism? From reading other threads this is about 110 quid from sopers.
Thanks in advance!
Pics of the window regulator damage: