Hi all
Looked in a number of places but couldn't find a definitive how to.
Big shout to Chris for sending over the initial TIS (or equivalent) guide which was generic but a great starter for ten
I needed to replace my passenger door as it had awful rust underneath and there was a water leak that side of the car- membrane issues I assumed (correctly)
I sourced a door which came 'bare' apart from the door handle and internal mechs still in place. Note that this would be different for a drivers door which has a suited lock to replace.
Process:
On the original door, I started by removing the tweeter pods- they pull of with care. Carefully free the loom and unclip- best way is to slide a sharp small blade into the plug or you will end up breaking it!
Once off, undo the 4x T25 bolts to remove the door card- take the door handle trim off to reveal two, the small grommet in the actual door opening handle and the final one under the 'airbag' trim piece to the rear of the door. Once removed the door card can be pulled away, bottom first then top.
Undo the bowden cable from the door handle, unclip all electric plugs EXCEPT the airbag one!
Undo the 3x T30 holding the mirror in place and set aside safely.
Now onto the stripdown of the door. I removed the membrane by stanley knife/blade but be careful! I had tape and Tec7 sealant to reaffix but still managed in areas to rip the membrane (worse than it already was!!)
Once the membrane is off, I used this guide which is excellent to remove the window- credit to OP!
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=69260
At this stage you will need to unharness the airbag so all usual precautions here of taking the battery off, letting it sit for 20-30 mins etc.
Once you have the window out, further works I needed to do were to swap the door latch (the supplied door had a clip missing) which was simple- 3 bolts on door slam area and unclip the internal bowden cable- easy when you can see it.
Getting the door off the car was easy. I didn't remove the loom from the car, just fed it back through the door and refitted in reverse. I undid the top and bottom hinges, removed the retaining bar and lifted the door off. Refitting was reverse and v simple- note that you can also undo the 2x 16mm bolts that hold the main hinges on, but that means realigning the door when fitted. I had to revert to this as the top hinge would not budge, but a fairly easy task if you have someone to help the alignment.
Then: window back in and secured. Membrane back on and resealed (overkill!!!). Airbag back on, loom back on and clip in, mirror back on, door card back on, tweeter back on and door card secured!
Happy to help with anyone that gets stuck!
Cheers
Stuart
Looked in a number of places but couldn't find a definitive how to.
Big shout to Chris for sending over the initial TIS (or equivalent) guide which was generic but a great starter for ten
I needed to replace my passenger door as it had awful rust underneath and there was a water leak that side of the car- membrane issues I assumed (correctly)
I sourced a door which came 'bare' apart from the door handle and internal mechs still in place. Note that this would be different for a drivers door which has a suited lock to replace.
Process:
On the original door, I started by removing the tweeter pods- they pull of with care. Carefully free the loom and unclip- best way is to slide a sharp small blade into the plug or you will end up breaking it!
Once off, undo the 4x T25 bolts to remove the door card- take the door handle trim off to reveal two, the small grommet in the actual door opening handle and the final one under the 'airbag' trim piece to the rear of the door. Once removed the door card can be pulled away, bottom first then top.
Undo the bowden cable from the door handle, unclip all electric plugs EXCEPT the airbag one!
Undo the 3x T30 holding the mirror in place and set aside safely.
Now onto the stripdown of the door. I removed the membrane by stanley knife/blade but be careful! I had tape and Tec7 sealant to reaffix but still managed in areas to rip the membrane (worse than it already was!!)
Once the membrane is off, I used this guide which is excellent to remove the window- credit to OP!
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=69260
At this stage you will need to unharness the airbag so all usual precautions here of taking the battery off, letting it sit for 20-30 mins etc.
Once you have the window out, further works I needed to do were to swap the door latch (the supplied door had a clip missing) which was simple- 3 bolts on door slam area and unclip the internal bowden cable- easy when you can see it.
Getting the door off the car was easy. I didn't remove the loom from the car, just fed it back through the door and refitted in reverse. I undid the top and bottom hinges, removed the retaining bar and lifted the door off. Refitting was reverse and v simple- note that you can also undo the 2x 16mm bolts that hold the main hinges on, but that means realigning the door when fitted. I had to revert to this as the top hinge would not budge, but a fairly easy task if you have someone to help the alignment.
Then: window back in and secured. Membrane back on and resealed (overkill!!!). Airbag back on, loom back on and clip in, mirror back on, door card back on, tweeter back on and door card secured!
Happy to help with anyone that gets stuck!
Cheers
Stuart
Will post my notes after.