My car is due for service and I am thinking to change the coolant (along with the other bits) as I don't think it has ever been done. However BMW say it does not need changing and is sealed for life (unless it needs new water pump etc.). I am sure this is the same as the auto box sealed for life, i.e. it isn't. Question is what coolant to use and how much will I need?
Coolant Change
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Anonymous
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Trade name Manufacturer/Supplier
AD Original AD 48 AD Parts, S.L.
AlpineC48 Mitan Mineralöl GmbH
AWM G11 Tosol-Sintez
Aral Antifreeze Extra Aral AG
AVIA Antifreeze APN AVIA Mineralöl AG
BMW Antifreeze BMW AG
Radiocool NF Castrol International
MAINTAIN FRICOFIN Fuchs Europe Schmierstoffe GmbH
Engmans Super Antifreeze and Coolant Unico Manufacturing
GLYSANTIN® G48® BASF series introduction
Kuttenkeuler Antifreeze ANF KK48 Kuttenkeuler GmbH
Antifreeze HD G11 K Lukoil
Glycostar ST48 Kuttenkeuler GmbH
Zerex G48® Valvoline
Requires about 10 litres in total about 8.5 litres capacity..looks like quite a faff if you do it 'properly'
Enclosure 1 to SI 17 01 96 (140), edition 02/2019
Pure water is unsuitable as a coolant not just because of the lack of antifreeze properties. Good functioning of the cooling system is only guaranteed once a suitable antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor, or antifreeze for short, has been added.
The cooling systems of BMW vehicles must only be filled with the anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitors approved for the purpose. The filling and maintenance instructions to be found in the Repair Instructions and operating instructions must be observed.
Antifreeze agents must meet the following requirements:
- They must guarantee operability of the cooling system in winter (anti-freezing protection by lowering the freezing point) and in summer (prevent boiling and boiling over of the coolant).
- They must protect metal parts that come into contact with the coolant (grey cast iron, steel, aluminium alloy, brass, copper and solder) against corrosion and cavitation.
- They must be neutral with respect to rubber parts and plastic parts in the coolant circuit.
- They must guarantee the consistency of the above-mentioned quality criteria.
To create these coolant properties, the antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors must be mixed to the correct ratio with water.
Prescribed mixture for coolant:
50 % antifreeze for antifreeze protection up to -40 °C
The original coolant mixture for the initial filling at the factory has this antifreeze-to-water ratio.
If the proportion of antifreeze is less than 40 % to -29 °C (i.e. the water content is higher than 60 %), not only the degree of protection against freezing, but also corrosion protection is reduced. When the water content is too high, this can lead to premature excess temperature in very hot weather or hot climates and as a consequence lead to coolant being ejected out of the system and damage to the engine through excess temperature.
This means that it is essential that an antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor is added even in the tropics.
Too high a concentration, more than 55 % down to -47°C, leads to deterioration of the cooling properties (heat transfer) and protection against freezing-up is modified in the opposite direction, i.e. it also deteriorates.
The amounts of screenwash required for protection against freezing are stated (percentage values) on the containers.
Minimum requirements for water quality:
Appearance: colourless, clear
Sediment, without suspended matter
pH value: 6.5-8.0
Total hardness, max.: 20° dH (German hardness grade) or in new unit of measurement:
Total hardness, max.: 3.6 mmol Ca 2+/ltr.
Chloride content: max. 100 mg/l
Sulphate content: max. 100 mg/l
Tap water with drinking water quality usually fulfils these requirements. Local water utilities can provide information about the quality of the water they supply. If necessary, the water must be treated (e.g. softened) or distilled water must be used.
The quality of regenerated sea water (as found in the Gulf states) is inadequate!
AD Original AD 48 AD Parts, S.L.
AlpineC48 Mitan Mineralöl GmbH
AWM G11 Tosol-Sintez
Aral Antifreeze Extra Aral AG
AVIA Antifreeze APN AVIA Mineralöl AG
BMW Antifreeze BMW AG
Radiocool NF Castrol International
MAINTAIN FRICOFIN Fuchs Europe Schmierstoffe GmbH
Engmans Super Antifreeze and Coolant Unico Manufacturing
GLYSANTIN® G48® BASF series introduction
Kuttenkeuler Antifreeze ANF KK48 Kuttenkeuler GmbH
Antifreeze HD G11 K Lukoil
Glycostar ST48 Kuttenkeuler GmbH
Zerex G48® Valvoline
Requires about 10 litres in total about 8.5 litres capacity..looks like quite a faff if you do it 'properly'
Enclosure 1 to SI 17 01 96 (140), edition 02/2019
Pure water is unsuitable as a coolant not just because of the lack of antifreeze properties. Good functioning of the cooling system is only guaranteed once a suitable antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor, or antifreeze for short, has been added.
The cooling systems of BMW vehicles must only be filled with the anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitors approved for the purpose. The filling and maintenance instructions to be found in the Repair Instructions and operating instructions must be observed.
Antifreeze agents must meet the following requirements:
- They must guarantee operability of the cooling system in winter (anti-freezing protection by lowering the freezing point) and in summer (prevent boiling and boiling over of the coolant).
- They must protect metal parts that come into contact with the coolant (grey cast iron, steel, aluminium alloy, brass, copper and solder) against corrosion and cavitation.
- They must be neutral with respect to rubber parts and plastic parts in the coolant circuit.
- They must guarantee the consistency of the above-mentioned quality criteria.
To create these coolant properties, the antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors must be mixed to the correct ratio with water.
Prescribed mixture for coolant:
50 % antifreeze for antifreeze protection up to -40 °C
The original coolant mixture for the initial filling at the factory has this antifreeze-to-water ratio.
If the proportion of antifreeze is less than 40 % to -29 °C (i.e. the water content is higher than 60 %), not only the degree of protection against freezing, but also corrosion protection is reduced. When the water content is too high, this can lead to premature excess temperature in very hot weather or hot climates and as a consequence lead to coolant being ejected out of the system and damage to the engine through excess temperature.
This means that it is essential that an antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor is added even in the tropics.
Too high a concentration, more than 55 % down to -47°C, leads to deterioration of the cooling properties (heat transfer) and protection against freezing-up is modified in the opposite direction, i.e. it also deteriorates.
The amounts of screenwash required for protection against freezing are stated (percentage values) on the containers.
Minimum requirements for water quality:
Appearance: colourless, clear
Sediment, without suspended matter
pH value: 6.5-8.0
Total hardness, max.: 20° dH (German hardness grade) or in new unit of measurement:
Total hardness, max.: 3.6 mmol Ca 2+/ltr.
Chloride content: max. 100 mg/l
Sulphate content: max. 100 mg/l
Tap water with drinking water quality usually fulfils these requirements. Local water utilities can provide information about the quality of the water they supply. If necessary, the water must be treated (e.g. softened) or distilled water must be used.
The quality of regenerated sea water (as found in the Gulf states) is inadequate!
Just get some deionised water from hardware shop. Often supplied for batteries and irons. I bought 5 litres.
Actually in UK i bought from Sainsbury's.
Need remove bottom panel.
Drain plug front left of radiator at bottom, blue colour, use coin to unfasten.
Ignition on, foot on accel. for about 10 secs pump will run about 1 min. ish. and pumps water out.
I flushed with couple litres deionised until it runs clear.
What came out was only very slightly cloudy.
Just repeat purge cycle.
Refit drain plug.
I put 5 litres anti freeze and top off with deionised water.
Need to purge air, so again ign. on, foot on accel. 10 seconds and if you look at the expansion bottle you will see the water flowing and gurgling.
Just keep repeating, topping water, till gurgling stops and water flows smooth.
Might need several purge cycles.
Check level and refit cap.
This is what i did no problems. Simplest anti freeze replace i've done.
My only reservation was Euro car parts sold me pink anti freeze. Seems the blue stuff should be in. I might change again summer.
Actually in UK i bought from Sainsbury's.
Need remove bottom panel.
Drain plug front left of radiator at bottom, blue colour, use coin to unfasten.
Ignition on, foot on accel. for about 10 secs pump will run about 1 min. ish. and pumps water out.
I flushed with couple litres deionised until it runs clear.
What came out was only very slightly cloudy.
Just repeat purge cycle.
Refit drain plug.
I put 5 litres anti freeze and top off with deionised water.
Need to purge air, so again ign. on, foot on accel. 10 seconds and if you look at the expansion bottle you will see the water flowing and gurgling.
Just keep repeating, topping water, till gurgling stops and water flows smooth.
Might need several purge cycles.
Check level and refit cap.
This is what i did no problems. Simplest anti freeze replace i've done.
My only reservation was Euro car parts sold me pink anti freeze. Seems the blue stuff should be in. I might change again summer.
Surfwooder
Member
If your coolant has not been changed since you bought your 2009 Z4, in 2009 you may be looking at a system failure. I would have a full coolant flush done as soon as possible. The flush will clean out any debris that may have settled in the rods of your radiator, which can cause a radiator failure. By now that old coolant will be full of contaminates, which could cause many other parts in the system to foul, and fail. I bought my Z used, and the first thing I did following delivery was to change the auto transmission fluid, rear end fluid, flush the brake fluid, flush the cooling system, and check all the hoses for rot. You may also want to check your power steering fluid, and all the hoses and connections to the rack for leaks and cracks. The brake flush and fill could save you hundreds in calipers repairs and replacement. Brake fluid pulls moisture from the air, which settles in master cylinder, and in the calipers, pitting the cylinders. You may want to review when you last had the engine oil changed, it may be time. Don't forget the filter. I did my air filter yesterday. I was surprised to find a second filter in the filter box behind the air filter. I'm thinking its to help protect the turbo. I'll be changing my cabin filter in the next few days. Next I'll be looking at fuel line filters.
Pbondar said:
Pbondar thanks for the info!
mcbutler said:
Do you mean it won't need changing?
flybobbie said:
Thanks for the info flybobbie, but these days I can't be asked to get my hands too dirty, so my trusty mechanic will be doing the job (I am supplying parts). Interesting to note it needs the blue antifreeze / coolant.
Surfwooder said:
My E46 which I bought when it was 8 years old and kept it until it was around 17 years old, had the original coolant in it and had never been changed. In fact that car still had the original radiator, water pump and thermostat at the time I sold it and all worked perfectly. I am pretty sure these E89s have electric power steering!
