Clay bar virgin, what to expect?

[Anonymous]

This weekend, my Black 2005 gets it's first ever claying.

The bodywork, is already quite clean. It gets washed by hand a least once a week, follwed by drying with microfibre towel and a coat or two of Autoglym polish every 2 or 3 months.

So, am I right in thinking the order of priority should be: hand wash, dry, clay, then a new coat of polish? Or should I be trying something different from the Autoglym?

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

E's Dad

 

[Color]

There are bigger clay experts here than me, but here is my routine.

Hand wash, dry, clay, then handwash, dry, wax etc..
I don't do all the car at once, but the above procedure on selected parts at a time (Bonnet, front, rear, left, right).

When claying you might find you run out of the clay liquid pretty fast. What I have used to do is first apply soap water on the area to clay, then spray a clay liquid on the 'landing spot' and the clay bar. If I feel the clay meets resistance (that is not due to the clay bar removing dirt) I spray on more clay liquid. This way the clay liquid lasts longer and I don't have to buy more than what comes with the package.

Also, remember to change to a clean area on the claybar often by bending it with the dirty side inwards to explose two clean surfaces.

That's about what I can contribute

Oh, one more advice . . let your fingers pass softly on the area after washing but before the clay, then do the same after clay & wax/polish . . . and allow yourself to grin from the silky smooth feeling it has now.

 

[PaulN]

I too am not an expert on this but a friend washes a panel and then Clay bars it while the water and soap is still on.

Lets be honest you can cut corners on most jobs and its a case of getting the process right for you.

Ive also hide from a good source that you can use a washing up liquid and water mix with a brand new bar of Blue tac instead of the clay........

Not tried it though and it must be a new blue Tac.

It blows your mind how much crap comes off though.

Cheers

PaulN

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks very much for suggestions. I might do some before and after shots to see what difference it makes.

Oh, and Color, I am looking forward to stroking it afterwards!

Cheers

 

[davidpfitz]

The claying does make a real difference - as you clay an area, you'll feel it smooth under your hand. Basically, there'll be less drag arond the area. Once the drag is gone, you know you've picked up the muck.

D.

 

[rosierobins]

i just pay to get it detailed twice a year. And yes clay makes it as the guy told me "as smooth as a baby's bottom".

:wink:

 

[ovrkll]

"as smooth as a baby's bottom".
:wink:

Talking about the car or you? :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

Well, finished it just before it went dark(!). Took around 5 hours from initial wash, through drying, claying, coat of polish and finally Meguirs wax.

Didn't get chance for pics as I wanted to get out and drive and it was really gloomy by six around here.

Anyway, thanks to all those with their help and suggestions. To be honest, the car must have been fairly clean already as the clay only really picked up alot of crap from around the cills and front airdam. Maybe I should have used more pressure?

Either way, I have to say it looks stunning right now. Who knows, I may even do the wifes RX8 next weekend!

Knackered now, a couple of beers are calling.

Cheers

E's Dad.

 

[rosierobins]

"as smooth as a baby's bottom".
:wink:

Talking about the car or you? :lol:

not me...i got another name.....

 

[davidpfitz]

Anyway, thanks to all those with their help and suggestions. To be honest, the car must have been fairly clean already as the clay only really picked up alot of crap from around the cills and front airdam. Maybe I should have used more pressure?

E's Dad.

Nah, you don't need much pressure at all. In fact, you could probably do damage with lots of pressure if you pick up a bit of grit and scratch it along. Light touch is what's needed!

D.

 

[561design]

Here is my method of clay bar. Basically, wash and dry the vehicle as usual. Get detailing spray to lubricate the area you're going to work on with the clay. Should be about a 1m x 1m area. You want to knead the clay before hand so it's soft. When working the clay on the sides of the vehicle you want to go in a horizontal motion sweeping back and forth. Keep working the area until you feel it's glass smooth. When you work the body panels that are on the top you want to go in a vertical motion to and from your body. Again lubricating the work area as you go. As you're working with the clay, constantly knead it and remove dirty pieces. Always clay your vehicle from the top down. After the whole vehicle has been clay bar'd. You should wash it again to remove any clay residue. If you have remaining clay left. Moisen the piece with detailing spray and store it in a ziplock bag.

 

[rc'Z]

If you really want to see if your car needs claying, and then to see your results, do the baggie test. Take a sandwhich baggy and put your hand in it. Rub it easily over your paint, it will probably feel real bumpy, kind of like gravel is on your car. Do the clay, and then do the baggy test again, you will be floored at the difference. My car was only a month old, shipped one state away and I clayed it to get the 'junk' off of it before I put the wax on it. If your detailing spary is empty before you get your car done, you are probably using too much, you only need enought for the clay to slide easily. I can usually get two or three cars out of the one bottle. Clay Magic has the largest bar, because, size counts here, split the bar in half. Clay also does a wonderful job of getting bugs off that Bug and Tar remover won't touch. Want clean windows, clay them, but do it after you clay the paint because there is so much junk on your windows, you won't want to clay your paint again with it. Clay is the way to go, old or new.

 

[PaulN]

If you really want to see if your car needs claying, and then to see your results, do the baggie test. Take a sandwhich baggy and put your hand in it. Rub it easily over your paint, it will probably feel real bumpy, kind of like gravel is on your car. Do the clay, and then do the baggy test again, you will be floored at the difference. My car was only a month old, shipped one state away and I clayed it to get the 'junk' off of it before I put the wax on it. If your detailing spary is empty before you get your car done, you are probably using too much, you only need enought for the clay to slide easily. I can usually get two or three cars out of the one bottle. Clay Magic has the largest bar, because, size counts here, split the bar in half. Clay also does a wonderful job of getting bugs off that Bug and Tar remover won't touch. Want clean windows, clay them, but do it after you clay the paint because there is so much junk on your windows, you won't want to clay your paint again with it. Clay is the way to go, old or new.

Do you sell clay be any chance? lol :wink:

 

[rc'Z]

If you really want to see if your car needs claying, and then to see your results, do the baggie test. Take a sandwhich baggy and put your hand in it. Rub it easily over your paint, it will probably feel real bumpy, kind of like gravel is on your car. Do the clay, and then do the baggy test again, you will be floored at the difference. My car was only a month old, shipped one state away and I clayed it to get the 'junk' off of it before I put the wax on it. If your detailing spary is empty before you get your car done, you are probably using too much, you only need enought for the clay to slide easily. I can usually get two or three cars out of the one bottle. Clay Magic has the largest bar, because, size counts here, split the bar in half. Clay also does a wonderful job of getting bugs off that Bug and Tar remover won't touch. Want clean windows, clay them, but do it after you clay the paint because there is so much junk on your windows, you won't want to clay your paint again with it. Clay is the way to go, old or new.

Do you sell clay be any chance? lol :wink:

Nope, I just 'discovered' a product that helps make a car look good again. I had all but given up on waxing because of all the contamination that I couldn't get off short of wet sanding or compounding. Clay made me happy !

 

[fire-n-ice]

The quality of the clay bar is extremely important and can make all the difference in the world. I use Blackfire because it tends to be good for lighter colored vehicles. If you start gently and take your time, you will learn the difference between an area that's been decontainated properly, and an area that still needs work. Again, I can't stress the importance of a quality piece of clay. I would never have my Z detailed by any other hand but my own - I don't even allow BMW to wash my vehicle when it goes in for service. You want it done right, do it yourself if you can.
Wash, dry with a lamb chamois; clay, wash and dry again, STRIP THE OLD WAX OFF (very important), prep, cure, then begin applying your layering of waxes. Make sure you use a clean bucket for washing and start from the top working your way down in a spiral motion. It is a long process and one you won't get done in a day or even a weekend depending on your schedule.
I love the baggie idea but instead of a Ziplock, I prefer to use a plastic grocery bag. They're a little thinner and you get a better feel of the debris.
Oh and, shame on you for not posting pics! :chairfight:
T.

 

[20ducks]

Lamb chamois?


Poor little critters....

 

[rc'Z]

Lamb chamois?


Poor little critters....

I've become PETA friendly. I use waffel weave micro fiber on the cars to dry them now instead of chamois. It is a lot friendlier to the paint and wax. I think that Clay Magic holds the patten on clay and everyone else pay for theirs. Oh wait, I still use lambs wool to wash. So I guess my PETA is people eating tasty animals........ :evil:

 

[fire-n-ice]

Lamb chamois?


Poor little critters....

Oh wait, I still use lambs wool to wash. So I guess my PETA is people eating tasty animals........ :evil:

I prefer my cow medium rare, fillet only please :evil:
Lamb is , but damn they dry my Z quite nicely

 

[GaryD]

A couple of tips I learned while claying:

1. No need to wash-dry-clay. You can eliminate the drying because you will be wetting the car with some kind of lubricant when you clay.
2. Wear latex gloves so the clay will not stick to your hand.
3. This probably goes without saying, but if you drop the clay (and you probably will) - THROW IT OUT!

 

[fire-n-ice]

Gary; good point, the only relevant thing about drying the car to me is, if you missed a spot or small piece of debris, you have a chance of swiping with your chamois or going back over it with the wash mitt before you clay.
And, knock on wood, I haven't dropped a clay bar yet. Good God I'd be mad - they are expensive.
I also don't use gloves, makes turning the clay easier.