For any newbies reading this, ‘drain holes’ are a poorly designed way of allowing rainwater and debris to drain out through holes on the underside of the car rather than collecting in the body wells. On soft tops the rainwater enters between the fabric roof and the body panels.
Often these drain holes become blocked and then water collects inside the housing of the roof motor (the panel behind the passenger seat). Over time this can kill the motor. Cost of a replacement motor and labour can be upwards of £1000.
Various ways of checking and cleaning the drain holes are discussed at length on the forum. Unlike most other methods, this ‘quick and dirty’ method doesn’t require jacking the car or removing the wheels or the wheel arch plates. In fact, no tools are needed. All you will need is one of these wire thingies:
I made it by twisting some PVC coated wire I found lying around in the shed, but a wire coat hanger or similar could be used.
The drain hole exit is located under the sill just in front of the rear wheel arch. There is one on each side of the car:
Lie on your back and reach under the car at the point indicated above. Looking from the ground up, the drain hole sits flush with the outer body panel of the car. A gap in the underside of the sill will give you access.
The drain hole exits are plugged with a soft rubber bung that has a split opening.
Reach in and feel around in line with the marker pictured previously. The drain hole exit is flush with the outer panel of the car. You’re trying to feel the soft end of the rubber bung. It can take a while to locate. (Note: the previous owner may have already removed the bung – I know that many forum members remove theirs, in which case you are feeling for a 8mm circular opening).
When you have located the bung give it a good twist and pull it out (its not threaded so you can twist it any which way).
As you can see the design isn’t great - it can get clogged up very easily. I would recommend not replacing the bung, and leaving the exit of the drain hole clear.
Once you have removed the bung you will have a good idea of how clogged the drain is: worst-case scenario it might release a stream of water, or it might be clogged up with mud and soil. When I first checked mine I found that the drain hole was clean, however, the bung itself did contained a build-up of dirt.
Now you need to use the wire thingy. Slowly feed it into drain hole, you may have to bend it slightly to start it off. Once it is in twist it, and then remove it. Repeat this, but each time feed it deeper until it won’t go any further. The state of the wire will show you how much gunk is up there.
I do this twice a year for peace of mind
Often these drain holes become blocked and then water collects inside the housing of the roof motor (the panel behind the passenger seat). Over time this can kill the motor. Cost of a replacement motor and labour can be upwards of £1000.
Various ways of checking and cleaning the drain holes are discussed at length on the forum. Unlike most other methods, this ‘quick and dirty’ method doesn’t require jacking the car or removing the wheels or the wheel arch plates. In fact, no tools are needed. All you will need is one of these wire thingies:
I made it by twisting some PVC coated wire I found lying around in the shed, but a wire coat hanger or similar could be used.
The drain hole exit is located under the sill just in front of the rear wheel arch. There is one on each side of the car:
Lie on your back and reach under the car at the point indicated above. Looking from the ground up, the drain hole sits flush with the outer body panel of the car. A gap in the underside of the sill will give you access.
The drain hole exits are plugged with a soft rubber bung that has a split opening.
Reach in and feel around in line with the marker pictured previously. The drain hole exit is flush with the outer panel of the car. You’re trying to feel the soft end of the rubber bung. It can take a while to locate. (Note: the previous owner may have already removed the bung – I know that many forum members remove theirs, in which case you are feeling for a 8mm circular opening).
When you have located the bung give it a good twist and pull it out (its not threaded so you can twist it any which way).
As you can see the design isn’t great - it can get clogged up very easily. I would recommend not replacing the bung, and leaving the exit of the drain hole clear.
Once you have removed the bung you will have a good idea of how clogged the drain is: worst-case scenario it might release a stream of water, or it might be clogged up with mud and soil. When I first checked mine I found that the drain hole was clean, however, the bung itself did contained a build-up of dirt.
Now you need to use the wire thingy. Slowly feed it into drain hole, you may have to bend it slightly to start it off. Once it is in twist it, and then remove it. Repeat this, but each time feed it deeper until it won’t go any further. The state of the wire will show you how much gunk is up there.
I do this twice a year for peace of mind
