had the new front discs , pads fitted today they look really good zinc coated with 20 grooves in them and mintex pads. Only problem is the supplier sent the wrong rear discs the replacement correct discs should be coming saturday morning I was going to attempt to fit them myself as the garage i use wont be open until tuesday is it a difficult job to fit the rear discs and pads is there a how to any where?
brake discs again
- Thread starter tedster
- Start date
Dealer muttered something about requiring a wind back tool for the piston in the rear calipers... I have one of these fortunately.
http://www.toolsnstuff.co.uk/product_info.php?pName=Brake-Piston-Cube-38%94Sq-Drive&products_id=6500&osCsid=56448bad223d6fb0cee4176c78d200a2
http://www.toolsnstuff.co.uk/product_info.php?pName=Brake-Piston-Cube-38%94Sq-Drive&products_id=6500&osCsid=56448bad223d6fb0cee4176c78d200a2
Adam D said:
assuming the calipers are the same as on a E46 then they will just push back. When I changed them on my E46 I used a G clamp to gently push them back into place. Found the info on a useful E46 M3 site, but cant remember where.
I think you do noeed a 7mm allen key, but these are easy to obtain.
They are a doddle to fit.
Axle stands, chock wheels - safety!!
Wheel off. handbrake off
prise open caliper and off pads slightly to free them, then remove caliper with a hex wrench (2 long pins accessed from rear under protective grommet) suspend caliper out of harms way (not on the hose!!)
There may or may not be a torx set screw holding the disk on
Remove disk. You are likely to have to beat the hell out of it with a hammer as it will be corroded on
clean up and push new disk on
loosen brake fluid cap
press caliper back with a G clamp or wind back tool after removing old pads.Keep an eye on fluid level so it does not overflow the reservoir...
Fit new pads is the reverse, but keep things clean
clean disk surface with apropriate cleaner
refit caliper
pump brake pedal a few times to ensure seated
fit wheel, torque up,
repeat on other side
retighten fluid reservoir lid and check level.
Stand back - admire
Bed in pads and re-torque wheel after 10 & 100 miles
Axle stands, chock wheels - safety!!
Wheel off. handbrake off
prise open caliper and off pads slightly to free them, then remove caliper with a hex wrench (2 long pins accessed from rear under protective grommet) suspend caliper out of harms way (not on the hose!!)
There may or may not be a torx set screw holding the disk on
Remove disk. You are likely to have to beat the hell out of it with a hammer as it will be corroded on
clean up and push new disk on
loosen brake fluid cap
press caliper back with a G clamp or wind back tool after removing old pads.Keep an eye on fluid level so it does not overflow the reservoir...
Fit new pads is the reverse, but keep things clean
clean disk surface with apropriate cleaner
refit caliper
pump brake pedal a few times to ensure seated
fit wheel, torque up,
repeat on other side
retighten fluid reservoir lid and check level.
Stand back - admire
Bed in pads and re-torque wheel after 10 & 100 miles
tedster said:
no it will sort itself out
I'll second the above, took me and a friend about an hour, I am sure most of that was us messing about. My only regret was not doing the handbrake pads at the same time as I'm told the 'newer' version are less prone to sticking.
I did have to beat the h3ll out of the disks to get them off but easy enough.
You don't need to rotate the pistons to get them back as the handbrake is a seperate drum inside the disks
I did have to beat the h3ll out of the disks to get them off but easy enough.
You don't need to rotate the pistons to get them back as the handbrake is a seperate drum inside the disks