Battery replacement question

[CYCLONE2]

Hello, I've got a 2005 Z4 3.0 with the original battery. It's being stored at this time. Usually I go start it up every few weeks and let it run for 15-20 minutes. The other day I went to start it and the starter just clicked. Looked at the battery and the indicator glass indicated to replace battery. I put a charger on it for a while and then started the car. Let it run for a while and shut it off. Came back 2 days later and tried to start it but no luck and the indicator says to replace it.
So I guess that's where I'm at. I called a few places like Autozone and Advanced Auto parts and they have a few batteries for the car. But, they say they won't install it. They say it needs to go to the BMW dealer to have it installed. Is that true? What's involved that it has to go to the dealer to be installed? I can see where you wouldn't want to disconnect the battery and lose whatever memory the car needs. If I have another battery to hook up in parallel with the existing battery before I unhook the stock battery I would think I'd maintain the 12 volts until the new battery was hooked up and the memory should be fine. Or, is there some mystical process that only a dealer can do? Maybe the system needs to know there's a new battery in there?

Any wisdom would be welcomed. Thanks.

 

[bcworkz]

Many BMWs need their computer reset by the dealership diagnostic computer when a new battery is installed. Something about a different charging profile based on the age of the battery I think. Not too sure, because Z4s do not require this. The auto parts people are just covering their rear because they're too lazy to go look up the correct requirements for a specific model. Just lump all BMWs in the same box.

Just go ahead and swap the battery. Don't connect a backup in parallel, that can be dangerous. If you're somewhat quick, the only thing you'll need to reset is the power windows. A forum search should bring up the exact procedure. If the power's off for a while, you'll need to reprogram the radio presets. You may also lose some minor things like seat positions etc.

IIRC, the last time I had the battery disconnected, for maybe 10 min, the windows didn't even need a reset. Just do it!

 

[GregZ4]

Got mine changed last year by local garage.
Just changed for a new heavy duty job with 3 year guarantee.
No problems after change and nothing needed resetting.
Just do it, sure you'll be fine.
I have an 07 coupe.

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[Bad_Pritt]

I just changed the battery myself and noted a few things like the clock no longer working and the windows won't go up anymore when opening the roof... The battery was completely dead, so I guess some memory things need to be reset after all. But other than that, the car seems fine.

 

[Z4M-2006]

The battery doesnt need any special coding or fitting.

The E85/86 doesnt have an IBS sensor,so battery isnt monitered.

If things dont work after battery refitted,then try lifting terminals off and refitting. Its just the relevant module has glitched and needs a restart.

 

[Bad_Pritt]

So simply disconnect and reconnect the battery?

 

[Z4M-2006]

Yep...

Worth a try.... You can also take off both battery terminals and briefly touch them together

 

[WLH]

I've changed batteries out 2 time without any problem at all...
Interstate make an exact replacement for the Z4...
Battery ID = MTP-48/H6
Shop around for price as price can vary greatly between dealers...

 

[left98204]

Same story here.

My battery died as the car was not used for a few months.

I replaced it myself and had no problems with any resets at all.

Plug and play!

 

[Bad_Pritt]

I'll disconnect it, get the terminals together briefly, reconnect and see what happens!
I do hope nothing else is wrong :?

 

[a4drk]

I changed mine last year on my coupe. THe after market one in the book was a different size (dimensions) - same Ampage
I made the guys change it to one the same dimensions - as the smaller one was sliding about in the recess.

 

[markeg]

Changed mine last year for a Bosch S6 - went for the S6 rather than the S5 due to Ah requirements - from euro cap parts.


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[CYCLONE2]

Thanks guys for all the words of wisdom. I feel a lot less intimidated now. One guy at Advanced Auto Parts told me a guy with a BMW changed his own battery and fried the computer in the car. That worried me a little. Evidently the key is to make the swap as timely as possible. Probably a good idea not to take the old battery out on a Friday and install the new one on Sunday. LOL.

One other thing......I noticed a small tube coming out the side of my battery and exiting outside the battery box. I assume it's a vent tube or an overflow tube? I know I've had those on motorcycle batteries but can't remember ever having one on a car or truck battery. What is that for? Does the new battery need to have that tube too like the stocker?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[BSVA]

I installed a new battery a few months ago. WLH was helpful with the battery selection, I went with the Interstate MTP-48/H6. It is a perfect fit all around for the car. I hooked up my battery charger to the terminal posts in the engine bay prior to removing the old battery. This kept all the settings active while making the switch. Once new battery installed, unhooked the charger. The tube you're talking about is the vent tube and should be connected to the battery.
Hope this helps in some way.

 

[WLH]

CYCLONE2 the exact size and the need for the vent tube is the reason I suggest the Interstate MTP-48/H6. There is actually a vent hole in each end of the battery. Make sure you have a plug which should come with the battery to plug the unused vent hole. As BSVA noted he hooked up to a battery charger while making the change. I did that as well last time as I need to exchange the old battery for the new. That would mean no battery being in my car for a few hours so I hooked up to my BMW charger just to be safe.

 

[Sae]

...had to replace my battery a couple of months ago

btw. What I hadn't realised is that even though the battery is in the boot (coupe), there is a battery jumper terminal under the hood, up next to the windscreen, so you could hook a temporary battery up to that while you change your old one over, but sounds like your old batt died anyway.

 

[Bad_Pritt]

...had to replace my battery a couple of months ago

btw. What I hadn't realised is that even though the battery is in the boot (coupe), there is a battery jumper terminal under the hood, up next to the windscreen, so you could hook a temporary battery up to that while you change your old one over, but sounds like your old batt died anyway.

Yes, it was completely dead... I didn't know that 2 months is too long... I've never had a car standing still for such a long time before.

 

[CYCLONE2]

CYCLONE2 the exact size and the need for the vent tube is the reason I suggest the Interstate MTP-48/H6. There is actually a vent hole in each end of the battery. Make sure you have a plug which should come with the battery to plug the unused vent hole. As BSVA noted he hooked up to a battery charger while making the change. I did that as well last time as I need to exchange the old battery for the new. That would mean no battery being in my car for a few hours so I hooked up to my BMW charger just to be safe.

I'm going to go with the Interstate. Seems like a "no brainer" to me. I went to the Interstate website and got a list of dealers near me. As you said, the prices do vary from dealer to dealer. So far Firestone Tires has the best price. They have one in stock and they're asking $129.95 plus tax with exchange of the old battery. I got 2 other quotes, one for $139.95 and one for $159.95. So I guess Firestone will get my busness......it's close and they've got one. Do you remember what you had to pay?

 

[WLH]

CYCLONE2, it was almost a year ago and I paid about $125 with the exchange. I had one quote of $179...

The good thing about going with an Interstate battery is that every gas station, independent repair shop is a dealer so if you have a problem a replacement is usually just minutes away.

 

[lacroupade]

Battery swap is easy and shouldn't cause any problems other than, say, the odd window reset.

However, if your battery has gone flat over a period of time and been left, you might find the ECU goes into 'transport mode' which needs a dealer to reset (about £30-40). I forget the exact symptoms I had when it happened to me - heater fan only working on slow speed was one - but I listed them somewhere ages ago on a thread; just search 'transport mode'.