BAD Vibration through car, worse with mileage and speed.
- Thread starter Bluebottle
- Start date
Pondrew said:
I was wondering how a sliding calliper moved without pins to slide along but didn't want to jump in without checking first.
This is the Realoem diagram for a 2014 2.0iS - front brake
Though if you want to be pedantic it is the calliper that slides and the pin stays still. :roll:
Yeah obviously there has to be 'pins' for the caliper to side on, otherwise the piston (s) would push one side out.enuff_zed said:
I presume the 'pins' comment previously was regarding the bigger brake setups on BMWs where there are pins through the pads themselves, rather than the pads sliding on cast 'ears' in channels in the calipers.
I don't know, do I?
Thanks folks.
Briefly, I exaggerate; the car is driveable but I am not comfortable doing so. When a garage replaced front discs, and caliper on our Subaru (as I was recovering from broken ribs), they sent my wife away with a seriously binding caliper. Pulling to one side, needing power to overcome the resistance, and extremely hot disc and wheel within a mile of driving.
To put your minds at rest, my Z4 does not have a seized caliper, although I don't dismiss the possibility that there may be some binding in the piston, pads, or pins.
Thanks for the realoem, as I assumed, the front brakes are the same ATE as my E39 that I am familiar with.
The forecast is for a dry weekend so I can get on with investigating.
Obviously I will report any findings and not repeat my mistakes.
Briefly, I exaggerate; the car is driveable but I am not comfortable doing so. When a garage replaced front discs, and caliper on our Subaru (as I was recovering from broken ribs), they sent my wife away with a seriously binding caliper. Pulling to one side, needing power to overcome the resistance, and extremely hot disc and wheel within a mile of driving.
To put your minds at rest, my Z4 does not have a seized caliper, although I don't dismiss the possibility that there may be some binding in the piston, pads, or pins.
Thanks for the realoem, as I assumed, the front brakes are the same ATE as my E39 that I am familiar with.
The forecast is for a dry weekend so I can get on with investigating.
Obviously I will report any findings and not repeat my mistakes.
They could have damaged the tire or wheel. A damaged cord in the tire could do this. I've had bent wheels balanced and tires with damaged cords. They don't routinely check. Take the tires somewhere that does load force balancing and tell them to check for bent wheel and damaged tire cords.
How on earth do I release the handbrake to inspect and clean the brake calipers/pads?
Oh I have figured it now :headbang:
Oh I have figured it now :headbang:
CONFESSIONS OF A HOME MECHANIC.
First, I promised to look at my wife's Subaru that when driven for more tham 30 mins would refuse to be turned without the wheels making a loud clunking action/sound and shaking the car as if the tyres were 50p coins! Initially I feared CV joints (but apparently they click when worn) or differential (which I did not want to repair considering what we've spent keeping the Subaru on the road for the past 3 years). I now think it is front brakes binding; I would like to replace the flexi pipes but the unions are rusty and clean the pistons and bores. Both actions could potentially require further action and parts rendering the car immobile for a few days, so I simply removed pads and cleaned and greased the ears and where they rest/slide on the caliper. Yet to road test.
Next on to my E89.
Both rear wheels removed, a little too much Hammerite on one hub, but absolutely no other concerns nevertheless I rubbed down all wheel/hub mating faces and ensured pads were free to 'float'. Tyres were perfectly round and wheels did not appear buckled (one was straightened by wheel repairer anyway). No sign of binding. So onto the fronts.
Again tyres and wheels were perfect and no sign of binding, HOWEVER there was a little Hammerite on one sliding pin and all the pad ears. All stripped, cleaned, and rust and brake dust removed. Reassembled with a tiny smear of Brembo brake grease. I used my new cheap £40 torque wrench set to 110 Nm that was nowhere near as tight as the garage did my bolts up to; (I really struggled to remove the wheels, and convinced something was going to break). Anyone know what is the correct setting please?
Change out of my black overalls that were white seven hours earlier, roof down, shades on and out for a test drive with my wife in the last of today's sunshine. Car felt smoother, more responsive than Monday, and brakes sharper. Five miles later when everything was warm, no sign of vibration and a happy wife and relieved husband. :titshake: :happyclap: :driving:
Thanks for everyone's advice and guidance and apologies for being such a plank. :headbang:
First, I promised to look at my wife's Subaru that when driven for more tham 30 mins would refuse to be turned without the wheels making a loud clunking action/sound and shaking the car as if the tyres were 50p coins! Initially I feared CV joints (but apparently they click when worn) or differential (which I did not want to repair considering what we've spent keeping the Subaru on the road for the past 3 years). I now think it is front brakes binding; I would like to replace the flexi pipes but the unions are rusty and clean the pistons and bores. Both actions could potentially require further action and parts rendering the car immobile for a few days, so I simply removed pads and cleaned and greased the ears and where they rest/slide on the caliper. Yet to road test.
Next on to my E89.
Both rear wheels removed, a little too much Hammerite on one hub, but absolutely no other concerns nevertheless I rubbed down all wheel/hub mating faces and ensured pads were free to 'float'. Tyres were perfectly round and wheels did not appear buckled (one was straightened by wheel repairer anyway). No sign of binding. So onto the fronts.
Again tyres and wheels were perfect and no sign of binding, HOWEVER there was a little Hammerite on one sliding pin and all the pad ears. All stripped, cleaned, and rust and brake dust removed. Reassembled with a tiny smear of Brembo brake grease. I used my new cheap £40 torque wrench set to 110 Nm that was nowhere near as tight as the garage did my bolts up to; (I really struggled to remove the wheels, and convinced something was going to break). Anyone know what is the correct setting please?
Change out of my black overalls that were white seven hours earlier, roof down, shades on and out for a test drive with my wife in the last of today's sunshine. Car felt smoother, more responsive than Monday, and brakes sharper. Five miles later when everything was warm, no sign of vibration and a happy wife and relieved husband. :titshake: :happyclap: :driving:
Thanks for everyone's advice and guidance and apologies for being such a plank. :headbang:
120Nm, thanks Pondrew.
Yes a bit of paint between one rear wheel and hub. But I feel the paint on the edge/ ears of the front pads, where they are located in the caliper bracket, was preventing the pads floating back after braking was causing my problems :?
Yes a bit of paint between one rear wheel and hub. But I feel the paint on the edge/ ears of the front pads, where they are located in the caliper bracket, was preventing the pads floating back after braking was causing my problems :?
