Any way to join 108 sections?

[Medium Dave]

It's a slow day at work and I got to thinking about the 108 corrosion problem. I was reading that it is mainly due to the fact that they are split rims and that the combination of brake dust and water gets between the two parts of the whel and forms a kind of battery. So my questions are:

1. Is this true?

2. I need to get my 108s refurbished. Is it possible to join the two parts together before painting/powder coating (either by applying an electrical bonding cable between the two parts as used on aircraft, or by a physical join)? If so, would this turn the 108 into a one piece rim and get rid of the problem?

I am ready for the scientists among you to go on the attack an explain why I am talking complete nonsense. At least it should pass the afternoon at work reading the comments!

 

[noxas]

You'r right it is very slow today, I would like to oblige and attack you over this but as I don't have a clue as to weather you're right or wrong I can't.

 

[srhutch]

On or two forum members have used a bead of silicone to seal the inner join, how well this works I dont know, much depends on where the car is used, and how well and often the wheels are cleaned.

In 2 1/2 year my first set only just started showing signs of corrosion and were replaced. (you could only see when you took the wheels off). The set I have now for 12 months are corroding already but on the inners where the weight line is so nothing to do with the actual split.

 

[Woots]

Gesssh all this do-dah with 108's corroded :roll:

Just get some 16" will you :wink:

 

[Z4//MMY]

I would have thought that the 2 different sections would need to be made of different material to enable corrosion through electrolysis.....

Unless the inside surfaces (usually touching and not exposed to the elements) is not plated. this would effectively make 2 different materials being the plating and the bare alloy which when joined by water could allow for electrolysis...

hmmmm.....

I'm thinking that taking the 2 sections apart and painting or applying a plating or anti-corrosion grease in the joint between the 2 parts could solve the problem.....

 

[Anonymous]

Gesssh all this do-dah with 108's corroded :roll:

Just get some 16" will you :wink:

Have you got 16" wheels on your car?

 

[cj10jeeper]

IMHO there is very little electrolite activity between differing metals taking place, simply a fertile ground for the alloy corrosion to exploit chips and marks in the lacquer. Between the 2 parts of the rim it can work away and stay wet unde the lacquer, fed buy regular doses of new water and road salts

I have no doubt that a bead of silicone will help prevent the initial ingress but would caution against too much as the wheels may never part when needed.

Physical bond of the 2 parts, etc. Forget it the star 'floats' in the rim and is held in place with 2 bolts on a mating face

 

[Mr Whippy]

Silicone sealer beads put on post joining is probably the best bet, especially on the inside as it won't be seen, then smooth it into the join so mud/dirt/water don't sit around it.

Then the same on the outside, and use a very fine bead just a mm or so down into the gap. It might be visible, but only on VERY close inspection...



The only issue then though, is that the lacquered polished rim if kerbed or even tiny stone chipped, WILL corrode again in quick order.

Basically, anything lacquer over polished metal will corrode in quick order. It's not just these wheels, ANY wheel with that kinda finish is suceptible

Dave

 

[Rudd]

when i refurbed mine i wasnt keen on having to do it again. i was willing to take a risk however and left the alloy unpainted.

i put waxoil (used as under car sealant) between the two parts and even on the inner rims to see what would happen. i put them on in the winter and even with all of the salt on the road there is no corrosion whatsoever and the oil is staying put.

i think i will eventually strip down and repaint though as the un-oiled edges of the rim have gone a little dull. worth a shot

 

[Medium Dave]

Thank you for your replies. I knew that there must be some reason why you couldn't join the two pieces or someone would have done it already. I'm now back to deciding whether to refurbish my 108s (the best looking wheels by far) or to change the wheels and get rid of the corrosion issue forever.

 

[a11y]

An alternative is to have the outer part of the alloy completely painted/powdercoated (basically the same finish as the inner star part). This goes a long way to holding off corrosion as the paint/powdercoat is much more resilient to corrosion than the lacquer over polished metal. But IMO it's the polished lip which makes the 108s - without it, they're just not as special.

I went for a half-way compromise when my 108s were refurbed (since sold on). The outer part was completely painted apart from the outer inch or so which is on show as the polished lip beyond the inner star section. This meant the inner surface of the outer part of the alloy (if that makes sense...) was painted, along with the mating surface. Didn't affect the external appearance of the wheel, kept the polished lip, but did mean I had to maintain the polished lip regularly. Just an option. Either that or just buy a set of ellipsoids

 

[GAZA62]

The problems on my 108s are nothing to do with the split rim its the outer lip thats the prob.