All Fluid Change - suggestions

R

Roundozo

Senior member
 Hampshire
Hello everyone!

As some of you may be aware I’m carrying out some extreme maintenance on the zed this weekend. After I’ve finished with getting the new DMF on etc I want to do all of my fluids. I contacted Opie Oils as I have used them before and they have suggested the below fluids. Have any of you got an suggestions on what to avoid and what is a good recommendation?

For those not in the know the car as a 2006 Coupe on 83k.

Engine oil……

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-685-bmw-longlife-01.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-686-bmw-longlife-04.aspx

Gearbox oil………

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69413-castrol-syntrans-b-75w-fully-synthetic-car-gearbox-oil-bmw.aspx

Diff oil…..

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90-mtfs-manual-transmission-fluid.aspx

Brake/clutch fluid……

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-450-brake-fluid-clutch-fluid.aspx

Any tips and pointers would be great.
 
Hey I did a full fluid change earlier this year and used the following;

Engine oil - Castrol Edge
Gearbox oil - Fuchs TITAN SINTOFLUID FE SAE 75W
Diff oil - Redline Synthetic gear oil 75w90
Brake/Clutch - Motul DOT 5.1 Long Life Fully Synthetic Brake Fluid
 
Hi Thanks for the info. do you remember the quantities needed?

I think its along these lines....

Engine - 7lt
Gearbox - 1.5lt
Diff - 1.5lt
Brake - Who knows?? I want to flush through.
 
Ensure the engine oil is LL04, BMW has moved from Castrol to Shell but, as long as it's from a 'major' manufacturer and it meets LL04, it shouldn't really matter

For brake fluid ATE Super Blue has always been highly regarded but the US banned coloured brake fluid so it's now ATE Type 200 which is the same fluid without the blue dye - anything that's DOT 4 or 5.1 should be fine (don't use DOT 5 as it's silicone-based).
 
Thanks all for the help. Bought Castrol 5-30 for engine, castrol 75w for box, motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid and motul 75-90 for the diff.
 
Oh and, if you're bleeding your brakes yourself, a pressure bleeder makes life much easier - there are two types...
- a positive pressure unit that fits over the master cylinder and 'pushes' fluid down the lines
- a negative pressure (vacuum) unit that fits over the bleed nipple and 'sucks' the fluid down the lines

When bleeding/flushing start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and finish with the wheel closest
 
Thanks for the info PerryGunn. Bled brakes a few times so have both bleeding system's. I presume there's a bleed nipple for the clutch somewhere down by the box?
 
Roundozo said:
Thanks for the info PerryGunn. Bled brakes a few times so have both bleeding system's. I presume there's a bleed nipple for the clutch somewhere down by the box?
Click to expand...

Yes there is rear the clutch delay valve. Bin that while your at it if you still have it in!!
 
Bit late now as you've ordered but my Z is heading for the full fluid switch next week
Engine,gearbox,diff,brake fluid & its Millers all the way for me :wink:
 
Oh that little delay valve is still there causing me all sorts of issues. Cant wait to remove the little blighter!!!

Me and Mrs Roundozo are heading for a driving holiday/honeymoon in the Zed around Europe in July/august and I'll go past my oil change interval while there (about 5k miles planned). I need to do it now so this will do. It'll probably all want changing when i get back anyway!
:driving:
 
adam1985 said:
Hey I did a full fluid change earlier this year and used the following;

Engine oil - Castrol Edge 0W-30
Gearbox oil - Fuchs TITAN SINTOFLUID FE SAE 75W
Diff oil - Redline Synthetic gear oil 75w90
Brake/Clutch - Motul DOT 5.1 Long Life Fully Synthetic Brake Fluid
Click to expand...


exactly what he said i did same when i got car plus bellow
Mann Air Filter
Mann Oil Filter
Mann Pollen Filter (Carbon)
NGK Spark Plug ILZFR6D11
Coolant (BMW)

Think that was near enough everything, prolly check condition of AUX belt too
 
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