Alignment. What next!

S

stevespg

Member
I've just had a 4 wheel alignment done at Kwik fit- was a little surprised the date range covers early and late cars. I thought the later cars would have different set up from earlier- can anyone provide those for a 3.0si facelift?

However the rear toe couldn't be adjusted because the "adjust or would not hold its setting. They mentioned replacing the control arm, however also the outer bush the toe adjuster bolts through in the hub may be seized?

I've not yet looked under the back of the car, so can't be sure what is no longer adjusting and holding adjustment, but it was a bolt below the driveshaft on the outer hub.


any ideas if this bush is replaceable? Or how best to proceed. Don't want to strip the car to find i need to replace the whole rear arm and Hun IMG_3048.JPG carrier..
 
If the camber bolt is seized they are pretty easy to change, located on the bottom of the hub, mine just sheared when I tried to undo them and the bolt tapped out easily enough.
 
stevespg said:
However the rear toe couldn't be adjusted because the "adjust or would not hold its setting. They mentioned replacing the control arm, however also the outer bush the toe adjuster bolts through in the hub may be seized?
Click to expand...

Are you sure you don't mean camber, not toe? Looking at your specs it looks like a problem left rear camber. If so then ^^^ this. Don't replace the arm, the eccentric adjustment has seized as you suspect.
You'll need I think it is parts 9,6 & 8 on here. Can be a real bitch to remove the seized parts :(
http://www.bmminiparts.com/DiagramView.aspx?DiagramId=150619&MOSP=47797
 
They said the bolt turned. Just wouldn't "hold" a setting. I haven't looked, so will have to view a service manual or video to see what's what.

I've not messed with a bmw before, so learning on the job. Swapped out the front wishbones which was the reason to do the align in the first place..... seems I've found another job!
 
TomK said:
stevespg said:
However the rear toe couldn't be adjusted because the "adjust or would not hold its setting. They mentioned replacing the control arm, however also the outer bush the toe adjuster bolts through in the hub may be seized?
Click to expand...

Are you sure you don't mean camber, not toe? Looking at your specs it looks like a problem left rear camber. If so then ^^^ this. Don't replace the arm, the eccentric adjustment has seized as you suspect.
You'll need I think it is parts 9,6 & 8 on here. Can be a real bitch to remove the seized parts :(
http://www.bmminiparts.com/DiagramView.aspx?DiagramId=150619&MOSP=47797
Click to expand...

this...

they said toe, but you're correct it is camber that is out, thanks for the parts - - - looks like I've a "bitchin" weekend looming.

do i need to remove the arm, then hub? or push the bust from the hub in situ???
 
Yes that's what happens, it's common.
Replace that bolt and locker and the bush whilst you're there.
 
do i need to remove the arm, then hub? or push the bust from the hub in situ???

I'm used to old school adjustors... (shims AKA big washers).....life was so simple.
 
In situ, removing the arm from the car involves dropping the diff!
As G600 says, it can be straightforward, but I've seen some that weren't!
 
If it was me after I'd changed the rear camber bushes I'd drop the toe all round by 0.05, pull the pin in the front left to max out the camber and aim for 1.4 on the back not 2.4. Yes it's the red settings but it will handle a lot sharper with less inner edge wear on the rear. KwikFit probably can't do it though as they just align to factory specs and don't know how to do otherwise in my experience.
 
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