Alignment/Tracking Results In

[Snoop D]

So following on from my previous thread:

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=117928

It doesn't get any better!

However, I have found a few, *interesting* :roll: , things needing immediate attention and I will update that thread later.

Before I proceed, can anyone help me understand this printout? What is cross-caster, cross-camber and "minutes"???

The red ones are obviously out of spec and need alignment done. However, the caster values, which is mainly my concern as the drivers front wheel sits too far forward and rubs the liner and bumper excessively. No upper and lower spec values have been given and the box is greyed out?

Could someone please kindly explain all this to me in a simple way and tell me what the ideal setup/values should be for a 2003 E85 Z4 3.0i? I also note from the print out, it says 18inch wheels. This is incorrect, I have 19inch wheels. Would this have affected his measurements while he was carrying out the inspection?

He did go over the sheet with me, but I still only have a very basic understanding of this and got all confused when he started talking about "minutes out". He advised I put a new control arm on the left passengers side (this was the side that got hit from underneath when the car spun out, but this wheel looks to sit in the centre of the arch, not too forward like the other!?) So how would this fix the driver's side? :dizzy:

I have now also discovered the top mounts are badly torn! They definitely weren't torn last week, so its obviously happened and gotten worse when I drove to and back from the alignment shop.

I think I may have 2 options now:

1) Continuing fixing it, or
2) Set the bitch alight :lol:

 

[skelters]

Get it redone with 19" wheels selected.

Also get them to check the bushes, suspension, wheel position, top mounts, anything else that is suspension / steering related and ask them to read the error codes then clear them.

Take it for a drive and then get the codes read.

 

[eddiemunster]

So following on from my previous thread:

This, of sorts, was my living years ago.

18 inch; this looks like a Hunter printout, so, it's simply looking at its database, based on your number plate, and assuming the car is still completely as it left the factory.

Passenger wishbone; it would affect the drivers side, to a degree, as it'll essentially be pulling the chassis to the left. Over time, any excess movement in the joints on the right, caused by natural movement/expansion of metal joints, will mean that the residual freeing will be absorbed by the side pulling most, in your case the passenger. I would agree with what he said.

Camber; so, and being a Z4 owner that's doing this very work, I can tell you that increased camber will be top mount, bent wishbone or ball joint, or a combination of them. The top mount holds the strut top secure, whilst allowing for minimal dampening, and the lower wishbone sets it's position in relation to the car's geometry.

Minutes; generally used to described toe in, as that's position to the left/right of dead centre, whilst camber and castor generally described in degrees. You could describe all in the same, albeit on a different plain, and some people do, particularly in the field that I worked in.

Caster; it's greyed out because something is probably interfering with the laser that's aligning the chassis, but take it that this reading is way beyond any acceptable level, which it clearly is. This will be the rear wishbone bush collapsing, there's about 12-15mm of material between the bush hole and the edge of the metal sheath, and if that rubber has completely perished then that would easily deliver the results you're looking at on this printout.

The good news; it's all addressable, and even the best looked-after Z4 would have some or all of these problems. They only way you'll find one that hasn't is if you do what I'm doing, that being pulling all of the suspension off and replacing every moving/absorbing part. In 6 months time, once it's all back together, I would fully expect to go on the Hunter and see a red box or two.

The bad news; the parts aren't overly expensive, but, this is a labour intensive job. Doing the front, I'd get the fully built Meyle wishbones, £100 a side is far quicker to swap that 2 ball joints, pressing them out (once you've found the ones with the right lip), pressing them in. These new wishbones won't be OEM quality, but, they'll be better than the mess you currently have on. Obviously, I don't charge myself labour, but to do the following work on mine cost:

1. Front wishbones, rear bush - £50, BMW M concentric caster bush.
2. Front wishbones, outer ball joint - £80, Meyle HD.
3. Front wishbones, inner ball joint - £40, Meyle HD.
4. Front tie rods - £30, Meyle HD.
5. Front inner/outer steering arms - £60, Meyle HD.
6. Steering rack gaitors - £20, Meyle.

Top mounts were recent, ARB were recent, springs were recent, so factor in that cost if they need doing. I suspect yours will.

edit - if funds allow, replace items that are cheap whilst you have them in bits, it makes good economic sense. The steering rack gaitors, for example, or ARB bushes etc., etc.

 

[enuff_zed]

There are 60 minutes in a degree

 

[Spaniarduk]

Like [ref]enuff_zed[/ref], minutes is the subdivision of one degree. 60 minutes in a degree. Also a subdivision of a minute is.... you guessed it, 60 seconds.