Alignment Question

[Kamuela]

I'm booked for alignment tomorrow by a non-BMW specialist. Local dealer is a bit predatory for my taste; surprise! I expect that they'll be willing to follow direction, which leads me to, what should I tell them? I am not having any issues aside from a slightly squirrely feeling at high-ish speeds, but the tire wear seems to indicate a bit too much camber and/or toe (I'm thinking camber; looks pretty severe, and I'd expect more stability with excess toe). As far as I can tell from the mostly-complete service records, it's never had an alignment.

Should I--

1. just go with whatever they think is stock?
2. ask for a bit less camber than stock?
3. tell them to go with the M specs, which I understand are, surprisingly, more stable?
4. something else?
5. go have coffee and not worry about it?

Thanks

 

[hopz121]

I'd go max front camber on front (even across the sides) then go for a spec similar to Z4M / CSL where you can.

Less rear camber is definitely a good way to start

 

[MACK]

I'd go max front camber on front (even across the sides) then go for a spec similar to Z4M / CSL where you can.

Less rear camber is definitely a good way to start

+1 the good advice above and don't forget to remove the camber pins to help you get the max available camber on the front.

 

[hopz121]

I'd go max front camber on front (even across the sides) then go for a spec similar to Z4M / CSL where you can.

Less rear camber is definitely a good way to start

+1 the good advice above and don't forget to remove the camber pins to help you get the max available camber on the front.

This, I would remove the camber pins before you go son the garage don't give you any excuses!

Easy enough to do

Let us know how you get on

 

[Steve84N]

If a garage tells you that it's not possible to adjust front camber on a Z4 it's a sure fire sign they don't have a good depth of knowledge. You need to remove the camber pins to be able to slide the top mounts but they come out with a 4mm allen key in 30 seconds...

Ask for the following if you want an improvement in handling:

- Max front camber both sides matched to the lowest possible. For example if one goes to 1.5 and the other only goes to 1.3 get both at 1.3.

- Front toe to 0.02 both sides.

- Rear toe to 0.04 or thereabouts both sides.

- Rear camber to 1.5 degrees at most and ideally more like 1.1-1.3. You may find the stock adjustment doesn't go that low if the bushes are worn so just take the same approach as the front but aim for minimum rather than maximum camber.

If you aren't aware the measurements are shown in minutes and seconds versus degrees. For example 2o 24 is 2.4 degrees. There's 60 seconds in each minute so 24/60 is 0.4 degrees. The numbers I mention above are in degrees so you're aiming for rear camber that reads something like 1o 15.

 

[Kamuela]

Thank you, gentlemen.

 

[Kamuela]

Reporting back; NOTHING was even close before. As far as I can tell, it's never had an alignment, the rear was pointed well to port and the front was crosseyed. So, after talking with the alignment tech, we went for the middle of the factory recommendations as a starting point, since I've never experienced that . Cross camber in front is still a bit off, going to take it back in a while for another go (6 month/4000 mile warrantee), but night and day.

 

[Steve84N]

Shame. You've probably got too much rear camber if you've gone factory settings which we specifically warned you about. Do you have your readings?

 

[Kamuela]

Rear camber was close to 3, now about 2. I forgot to get a copy, I'll get a printout when I go back. The deal is to start with factory, then they'll tweak it for me any time in the next 6 months. I must say, his logic is irrefutable; if I don't know what stock is, how do I know what to change? Pretty good for $99

 

[Steve84N]

That's too much.

You may not know what stock is but we do and we know how to improve it. Drive it a bit then go back and ask for changes in line with this thread and you'll see for yourself.

 

[Ducklakeview]

I'd go max front camber on front (even across the sides) then go for a spec similar to Z4M / CSL where you can.

Less rear camber is definitely a good way to start

+1 the good advice above and don't forget to remove the camber pins to help you get the max available camber on the front.

This, I would remove the camber pins before you go son the garage don't give you any excuses!

Easy enough to do

Let us know how you get on

Jack car up, remove camber pins and loosen nuts, push strut top as far inwards as it will go and lock the nuts up, repeat on other side. Reason being is that it's MUCH easier to remove camber when the weight of the car is on the wheels than reduce it.. Will save a lot of time and potential effort compared to trying to increase it..

Mike

 

[Kamuela]

That's probably going to be today's entertainment. If nominal stock was such an improvement, I can't imagine what tweaking it further will do. Thank you, gentlemen.

 

[Kamuela]

That's too much.

You may not know what stock is but we do and we know how to improve it. Drive it a bit then go back and ask for changes in line with this thread and you'll see for yourself.

Exactly my plan.

 

[Kamuela]

Here's where I am now (all in degrees on the Hunter laser whiz-bang machine) ---

LF
C -1.7
Cas 5.1
Toe 0.12

RF
C-1.8
Cas 4.9
Toe 0.12

LR
C -2.2
Toe 0.15

RR
C -2.3
Toe 0.31

RR toe seems a bit excessive but is apparently in spec. F Camber is more than spec according to the tech, but seems nicely balanced with the rear, which seems high to me. Perhaps time for new bushings someplace? I see more fiddling in my future. I wasn't aware of how big an effect camber adjustment has on toe. Learn something new every day. Thank you all for the advice. More fun yet to come.

 

[Steve84N]

Your front lower control arm rear bushes may well be shot.

Take out a load of toe all round and less rear camber then it will be much keener to turn.