A68B Hard Top Issue

[VinylResearch]

Hey everyone,

New to the forum but have been lurking for a bit. I am having an issue with my 2009 z4 hard top convertible. The lower panel (panel 2 as referred to by Cra3Y in his detailed post https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=108814) would only raise up about 3 inches before stopping and I would get the red light blinking of death. So I got the dealer who sold me the car to read the codes with his advanced system tablet. It is the A68B microswitch issue. I ordered the new part and thought I'd just investigate the wiring etc tonight. After I opened the trunk and turned the hyrdaulic screws 1.25 turns each I made the mistake of actually closing the trunk.

Now that I have confirmed this issue is above my ability and tried to lock the top in place and roll up the windows. The latch for the top will not engage (when I push the button to put the top up it just makes a sound like it's cycling but nothing is latching/locking) and now the trunk is locked shut, my windows are locked in the down position, and it's beeping at me that the top isn't locked. I'm thinking if I could get into the trunk to tighten the hydraulic screws it may help the car engage the top latch and let me roll my windows up, but I can't get into the trunk to test this theory.

Any thoughts on how to get the latch to engage or how I can get into my locked trunk so I can get my windows up would be appreciated. Going to try and take it to the dealer on monday to see if his tablet can bypass the trunk lock/engage the top latch.

Thanks in advance

p.s. I watch the diagnose dan video too on youtube I should have known this was too much for my abilities.

 

[Smartbear]

Have a look at this https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1896952#p1896952
Rob

 

[VinylResearch]

Thanks Rob. I'll have a look, but I think I lack the equipment at this stage.

 

[RobbiZ4]

Well,
The initial issue is a broken wire, not a microswitch!
In this case to one of the two microswitches in the rear roof shell. No microswitch has to be replaced, but the wires on both sides should be properly replaced by new ones in LiFY quality.

 

[RobbiZ4]

p.s. I watch the diagnose dan video too on youtube

To be honest
The biggest nonsense in the world regarding Z4 E89 roof diagnosis!/b]

 

[VinylResearch]

Recap:
Got the A68B code (left microswitch) and I agree it's probably the wire, but the FL heat could have gummed up the switch too.
Took on the task to try and change it myself. Released the hydraulic pressure. Closed the trunk (DON'T DO THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE THE TABLET TO BYPASS THE LOCK). Determined I couldn't change the wire myself/the switch. Went to relatch/lock the top in place but b/c I loosened the hydraulic pressure the latch/lock wouldn't engage. The trunk was locked and i got the red light blinking of death. Windows were also locked in the down position and it turned out to be a rainy weekend.

Yesterday:
I got lucky and went back to the seller (local auto sales guy) and he used his tablet to bypass the trunk lock. Tightened the hyrdaulic pressure bolts and the latch re-engaged. The top still won't go down but the seller says he fixes them all the time and when work lightens up in a month, he'll help me change out the switch/wire.

Will update then to see if that's the only issue. By then spring break will be in full swing and maybe the wife and I can enjoy the Z in it's full glory.

 

[VinylResearch]

p.s. I watch the diagnose dan video too on youtube

To be honest
The biggest nonsense in the world regarding Z4 E89 roof diagnosis!/b]

You're not wrong. Showed it to my father in law and he said, oh he didn't show you the part where he actually fixed it b/c of the amount of work or him having to call a buddy to help etc. But, it did lead me to finding this forum b/c I kept looking for a solution or someone to confirm his findings.

 

[Nictrix]

I may have to change these microswitches.
What is the best position to have the boot/roof in for best access to change these?
Should the boot be opened as normal?
Or should it be opened as if the roof is being stowed?

 

[RobbiZ4]

Just start the opening process until the boot lid stands vertically, then stop and leave the roof package lying on top.
You need a broom stick to support the lid, while you remove one of the coupling fasteners.
And don't forget to use a white Edding pen to mark a circle around the 3 hut nuts to keep their former positions!

 

[Nictrix]

Just start the opening process until the boot lid stands vertically, then stop and leave the roof package lying on top.
You need a broom stick to support the lid, while you remove one of the coupling fasteners.
And don't forget to use a white Edding pen to mark a circle around the 3 hut nuts to keep their former positions!

Thanks. I had read through a few posts but couldn't see where the position of the bootlid should be.

 

[RobbiZ4]

Forgotten to remark:

You have to rework the pins out of the new plugs into the old housings, if your car was built before AFAIK 2014.
And care about 4x new M3x5 screws as mentioned here anywhere before. I always drill the old ones out, as this is the fastest method for me.

Watch this discussion:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1843752&hilit=drill#p1843752

 

[Nictrix]

Thanks again. The car is a 2014 so may be OK with the pins.

 

[Pondrew]

Forgotten to remark:

You have to rework the pins out of the new plugs into the old housings, if your car was built before AFAIK 2014.
And care about 4x new M3x5 screws as mentioned here anywhere before. I always drill the old ones out, as this is the fastest method for me.

Watch this discussion:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1843752&hilit=drill#p1843752

Not wishing to contradict your peerless knowledge Robbi, but I think the 'new' pin arrangement are on everything post LCI (March ish 2013 on).

 

[RobbiZ4]

Forgotten to remark:

You have to rework the pins out of the new plugs into the old housings, if your car was built before AFAIK 2014.
And care about 4x new M3x5 screws as mentioned here anywhere before. I always drill the old ones out, as this is the fastest method for me.

Watch this discussion:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1843752&hilit=drill#p1843752

Not wishing to contradict your peerless knowledge Robbi, but I think the 'new' pin arrangement are on everything post LCI (March ish 2013 on).

That is correct.
However, since I recommend replacing it every decade on every E89, this rework is required on most Z4 E89s (2009-2012).

E89: Retractable Hardtop (roof) Maintenance
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=130932

 

[Nictrix]

Swapped out both microswitches today.
All info on here about how to do the job was spot on.
Took longer to remove all the interior trim than it did to swap the microswitches.
Took Robbies advice and bought some screws to replace the originals, glad I did as only one came out. The car had 2mm allen head bolts in them so replaced with flanged torx screws.
Just for some information, the car is a 2014 with 20,000 miles and has been garaged most of its life. Roof just gave a fault even though it hadnt been opened in weeks.

 

[RobbiZ4]

Roof just gave a fault even though it hadnt been opened in weeks.

Top!
Which fault exactly?

 

[Nictrix]

Roof just gave a fault even though it hadnt been opened in weeks.

Top!
Which fault exactly?

Sorry I didnt read codes or anything. I went off others experience and your diagnosis of their issues.
Basically there were warning bongs saying different things like roof fault, roof not latched, the red light flashing. The boot would not open while these warnings were showing. These would go away after driving a short distance and would reappear again after switching off and restarting the engine.

 

[RobbiZ4]

Roof just gave a fault even though it hadnt been opened in weeks.

Sorry I didnt read codes or anything.

Maybe I misunderstood you. Was the named fault before you replaced the microswitches or after the replacement?

 

[Nictrix]

Roof just gave a fault even though it hadnt been opened in weeks.

Sorry I didnt read codes or anything.

Maybe I misunderstood you. Was the named fault before you replaced the microswitches or after the replacement?

Yes, the faults were before replacing the microswitches and now the faults are gone.

 

[RobbiZ4]

Roof just gave a fault even though it hadnt been opened in weeks.

That might be irritating, but is a logical behaviour.
The CTM already starts to check all components of the roof, when you just unlock the car (i.e. with your key).
If any sensor sends an inplausible or no signal, a warning is thrown. No roof action is required for these checks.